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GTP091 last won the day on May 29 2018

GTP091 had the most liked content!

About GTP091

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    Kelowna BC.

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  1. Weird. I’d think you’d get a lot of sparks and a very hot wire rather than electrical damage. Need more info though. My first thoughts are to check fuses. Check under hood and interior as well. If it’s not that maybe you buggered the ecm or possibly the icm. Will the engine turn over? Does it try and fire? Have you checked for spark?
  2. I’m a little late to the party so this may be useless but I have removed and installed these. There should be 4 or 5 really long screws holding them on and one short one. Take these screws out of the flare. Once those are out there is a spacer that goes between the fender and the flare. Take the spacer out and then simply push the flare up. I would clean the fender really good and spray some silicon spray in between the fender and the flare so you minimize scratches when it comes up. It’s held onto he fender by small steel hooks that are riveted to the fender.
  3. That's some serious rusting. I've not seen that before even at the jy in Canada. You should take a look at the sub frame mounts while your up on jackstands
  4. I was trying to avoid pulling the plenum off and wanted to do the rest of the vehicles in my fleet as well. This method is the same as is done by garages to service the injectors. The most direct way to do it without pulling the injectors. I’ll just have to adjust my process. It’s just 50/50 sea foam and gas. Can also use the OTC branded inject r kleen but is really the same formula. Everything I read says to use seafoam as its the safest and best working.
  5. So I bought an Chinese rip off of an OTC pressurized injector cleaning kit. It’s decent enough kind of a tit to get it to seal correctly. Followed the instructions watched some videos. Mostly the consensus is to use the Shrader valve on the rail and disable the fuel pump. Well all that did was try and add 45PSI to my gas tank put the brakes on that right away. I’m thinking the ‘or’ part of the instructions where you disconnect the fuel lines at the rail , block the return and still disable the fuel pump is the way to go. Kind of a dick around As i really wanted to use the shrader because it’s just there and nice and easy. Has anybody used one of these pressurized injector cleaners? Just want to make sure my thoughts are on the right path before I disconnect a 28 year old fuel system that does not leak anywhere.
  6. The whole system is pretty rotten. Best to get all new cables and hardware. Go to rockauto for the cables. The cable linkages will require you to hit Napa as they’re not listed. Nothing good will come of piecing it together from Amazon. One wrong part and you’ll be scratching your head when something is to short or to long. Better get some oil on the Other rusted bits while your down there as well.
  7. Yikes, it’s much easier on the LQ1. That’s a first...
  8. GTP091

    5 speed swap

    I tried it first with a 6 point impact socket on a breaker bar. It’s an extended socket so part of how it slipped off the bolt head, arm torque was way off the centreline. I then put it on my cheap electric impact. Heat was a consideration will have to give it a try. I don’t have an air impact. Was not aware they have a hammer only mode that would have helped.
  9. GTP091

    5 speed swap

    So the dickwad I’m pointing at with my middle finger in the picture is still not out after staring at it for a week and several beers. Any ideas on reverse thread? It’s the jackshaft sprocket. Behind it is the actual timing chain. I’ll need to get that pulley off there to check out the chain condition. Paint, clean, seal etc. It needs to come off there without wrecking bearings or the shaft. Fml it’s alwaus one fucking bolt that fucks a job up. maybe I should consult the gm service manual for the ‘procedure’ I do have that
  10. Here’s the strut bar not easy to photo because it’s so long. I used rubber washers to secure it to the tower so the powder coating isn’t damaged at the bolt holes
  11. I did coils on my 91 GTP and found the 250s were to soft I’d also recommend 300. You can use the rear sway bar out of a 97 montecarlo if you can find one. It’s the largest stock bar there is. 95-96 might also have these as well. I have a powder coated strut tower bar from a 96’ cutty vert. In my 91 it rubbed ever so annoyingly on the EGR so I took it off. I’ve posted it on eBay here and there but did not sell. If you’re interested I’d sell it on for a low price but couldn’t say what shipping would be or if it would rub your EGR as well. It’s more likely to as they’re both 1st gen GPS?
  12. GTP091

    5 speed swap

    I’ll accept any suggestions on machine shop work as well. Based on the cost I may look into getting the heads decked, even if they pass the straight edge test? Also wondering on a 3 or 5 angle valve job. A port and polish sounds kind of interesting but have learned if you change the shape of the combustion chamber at all you mess up the volume between cylinders and ruin the benefit. Not sure there yet
  13. GTP091

    5 speed swap

    Got the other carrier off last night. All seems well from what i see so far. Will bag and tag each lifter and see if there’s any bad ones. I’ve done some general research into hydraulic lifters and the consensus is to put em back where you found em and clean them with solvent to remove any dirt. The sticky plunger I found on one could just need a cleaning. If not it seems summit of all places might have them in stock. Next up is off with the heads..
  14. GTP091

    5 speed swap

    Ive done an examination and found all but one of the lifters in great shape. One of them which is actually labelled number one has a sticky plunger. Hard to describe it really, all the others slide easily with some force but they don’t seem to be seizing. It feels tighter than it should be. Wish I could easily buy just one or two and not the entire set. I’ll have to check eBay. I imagine if I put it back in it’ll be noisey and could fail eventually.
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