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5 speed swap

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I have 6 284s but some of them have bad synchros and some I do not know the history on.I have one that definitely has good synchros in all 5 speeds and reverse, though I recall 3rd would make a slight grind on a high RPM shift. The case halves also have to be resealed. It's a pretty compact transaxle with the intermediate shaft removed, just heavy. I have three Lumina 5 speed shifters and three sets of mounts, wiring harness and computer, but I don't think I have both shift cables, likely only the select. I'll send you a message when I figure out exactly what I have.

That would be awesome.  thanks for checking.

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CV shafts are easy, just buy the right one for the car, right one for the tranny, and swap tulips. Not terribly cheap but easily obtainable.

I think for a 282 swap I can reuse one of the axles from the auto trans but not sure what side it is. The other that I don't have I should be able to just order new.

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Thanks for the suggestion however, the F23 from one of those will have a different bellhousing than the 60degree V6. I've read up on ithe F23 as it's been done on stock fieros but it's only rated at 170 ft/lbs of torque. The 282 and 284 are rated as far as I've read for 250 and 285. I also don't think my ECU will like it at all. I've seriously considered going to an F40 from an 05'-06' G6 as it rates for high output but has issues with finding axles going into a W (custom), ecu again, and the clutch bits for it are very costly. Im quite set on a 282 or 284.

 

A 282 or 284 will be easiest for sure.

 

But the 00-02 cavalier and sunfire with the 2.2ohv has the same 60degree bellhousing which is why I recommended it.

 

Also many Fierorog running 500hp through a f23. And one guy in the 2nd gen with a 500hp 3800turbo. Runs great!

 

 

The f23 would need a custom mount and pass side axle

 

The ecu doesn’t really care about the manual trans maybe for the speedo but that’ll be easy enough to figure out.

 

Regardless, good luck with you’re swap!

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I think for a 282 swap I can reuse one of the axles from the auto trans but not sure what side it is. The other that I don't have I should be able to just order new.

I know when I was replacing my passengers side axle on my 284 I was able to swap the whole 4t60e drivers side axle over no problem. Not sure if the 282 is the same though.

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I have a line on a 284 from a wrecker in Calgary thanks to Jiggity.  In the process of working out a deal.  Wondering what axles I should ask him to pull or none at all.  Rockauto shows the auto axles are same part #'s  left to left  right to right for auto/manual if buying cardone select as well as Heri brand.  My current axles are in great shape so would rather not pay for used axles that could be shot and also help the puller from not having to take em off the hubs. 

 

I've asked the parts puller to grab the firewall plate and he's going to give it a go. 

 

Wondering now on the 'air pump' system being a manual 284.  The tube going into the front manifold??  Is it needed for any specific reason?  will it throw a code if I don't add it in?  I think it's emmissions but not sure.

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Trans

axles & Stub shaft(SUPER important)

trans mounts

intermediate shaft & bracket(doubles as rear engine mount)

clutch master cylinder & Slave cylinder & line

clutch & bolts

flywheel & bolts

shifter

shifter bracket, bolts & clips into the floor(year they're different)

Cables, and cable firewall gromnets

clutch pedal  & bolt & switches with pigtails

clutch safety switch & pigtail

console top & shifter boot

PCM & Eprom(I'd just take the hole thing)

 

There are so many little things but I think I covered all of them.

 

according to Nunzi there is also a switch in the dash somewhere "Clutch anticipation" switch I think, but I don't know where it is.

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Trans

axles & Stub shaft(SUPER important)

trans mounts

intermediate shaft & bracket(doubles as rear engine mount)

clutch master cylinder & Slave cylinder & line

clutch & bolts

flywheel & bolts

shifter

shifter bracket, bolts & clips into the floor(year they're different)

Cables, and cable firewall gromnets

clutch pedal  & bolt & switches with pigtails

clutch safety switch & pigtail

console top & shifter boot

PCM & Eprom(I'd just take the hole thing)

 

There are so many little things but I think I covered all of them.

 

according to Nunzi there is also a switch in the dash somewhere "Clutch anticipation" switch I think, but I don't know where it is.

What is the stub shaft??  The intermediate shaft I understand but not the stub shaft.  it seems the parts list on rockauto shows that the axles between auto and manual are the same.  Is this not the case??  've read and been told that at least one axle from the auto works with the manual 284.

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The puller is having a hard time separating the trans from the engine,  He said the shaft seems somewhat stuck any advice??

 

It seems the throw-out bearing is seized on. not sure what that means.  cause for concern?

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thanks Chris,  Im sure ill be asking you many questions on this in the future as the install gets underway.  Really wish I could have done the tear out so i could see from the other side first..

 

the puller said there wasnt anything that seems like a 'stub shaft' on the car. it was just the cv axles themselves and the intermediate shaft.  Am i missing something here?  He's going back in tomorrow morning to get the pedals so i need to make sure he grabs the fire wall plate.  If anyone has a picture of a stub shaft on its own that would be awesome.

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The stub shaft is literally just a double ended job that goes into the differential on the 284 so you can snap an axle onto it, its drivers side only. Its about a 50/50 shot if it comes out with the axle or stays behind in the differential. I think I have one I can take a picture of. So basically on the driver side of the differential if you see a stub for the axle to slide onto you are good. and the Axles are the same part side to side so if one looks different it has the stub stuck in it still.

 

As for the clutch switch (NOT the ignition lockout clutch switch). I had to look into that when I did a 282 swap on a TGP. From what I found the clutch switch was added for the 1992 model year to help drivability. It will keep the revs slightly up when the clutch pedal is pressed. I've driven enough with and without it to say its not the end of the world to not have it, its nice to have but not the end of the world.

 

Not having it greatly simplifies the amount of wiring you have to do. If you don't have it its just a simple 2 wire switch that interrupts the cruise control that you could modify/wire in with ease.

 

Now if you don't have it and you are running a calibration for a 1992/3 it will throw code 39 from time to time.

 

Its a real shame you don't have the car in front of you. There are a absolute TON of little stupid parts that you'll need to properly execute the swap that no one grabs so they are basically unobtanium. 

 

And as far as the AIR pump goes. Its a bunch of parts and 100% unnecessary unless you need to pass California-Tier emissions tests and/or are just that anal-retentive ( I fall into the latter one here). Its an electric pump and special exhaust manifolds that you can feel to completely ignore if you want. also - about 90%+ of the pumps are totally shot at this point in time.

 

If you heaven't already search my username. I think I have 4 different threads of 5 speed swaps I've done now all with pictures. 

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Thanks for the info Jimmy and Chris.  Very helpful.  As far as the stub shaft goes if the puller has cut the axles off at the boot to protect the splines and both tulips are still inserted into the trans the stub shaft should be there then.

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It's all out, so looks like I have a 5 speed swap on the way. I'll do a separate build thread later on.  With summer coming I don't know if ill start until the fall or not so I can enjoy as it is.  I certainly want to OCD these parts so it appears brand new.  That said I'll need to hunt down a subframe and have it powder coated so I can pre install the drivetrain out of my car.  Local donors for that are 90-93 GP, luminas, cutlass supreme w's.  Will sedan gp's work as well and 89-90 / 93-96 model years? I have new subframe mount to reuse.

 

Im also wondering on doing an engine build as the lifters are quite noisy.  Might be a good time to get donor and do a rebuild rebuild.  I'll have to give that some thought.

 

where's add a picture button on here?

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Congratulations and that's great news!  I'm not sure, are you getting another GP LQ1 in addition to your beautiful burgundy one to do the swap on?  Or is this going into your current 92 GTP?

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List of parts confirmed to have been pulled from the donor car:

 

-284 5 speed

-intermediate shaft is still attached to the trans

-tulips are in the trans - so stub shaft is there 

-clutch is there but apparently unusable so will need a new one

-2 X trans mounts

-firewall plate

-2 clutch cables

 

-clutch pedals

-2 'brackets' that came with the pedal assembly

-shifter assembly

-shifter assembly bracket

-PROM - (the entire ECU)

-master cylinder

 

needs:

-new clutch

-new slave cylinder - was damaged on removal

-left CV axle

-input seal

 

-'clutch safety switch does not appear to be there." I can pull this off a j-body and rig up a cruise cutoff if that switch is not there.

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