white4d96 Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 I may be going to look at a TGP in a week or so. $650, guy says power steering is inop, it needs bodywork, and "has performance parts." I've never looked at a TGP or really any older 1st gen. What things should I look for as far as whether the car's worth buying or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 Rust and pmiii Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 Rust (especially the trailing arm mounts), PMIII (does it work), Turbo (no shaft play), Crossover (if stock, will need upgrade/repair) Those are the biggies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted August 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 I figured the TA mounts would be an issue. Did all TGP's have PMIII? It's a '90... Also, where is this "hidden rust" people keep mentioning and how do I check for it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 Yes, all TGP's came with PMIII... GM did not start using vacuum ABS until 1992. The "hidden rust" is behind the cladding... to check for it you gotta remove the cladding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted August 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 Oh okay. Is it possible to bypass PMIII if it's fucked up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 If it goes out, you have no brakes. It's all or nothing. You can convert to vacuum brakes but it's a bitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted August 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 Oh fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 I have way more time into making PMIII play nice then anything else. I lost my first TGP to PMIII (t boned) and my current TGP has played chicken with PMIII a few times. That said, when it works right it works awesome. Make sure that A) the BRAKE and ANTI-LOCK lamps are present in the cluster at key on, and that they are not on or flashing. listen to the motor in it, it should run every 2-4 pedal presses, not all the time or not every press. Not trying to scare you away but be prepared for a learning curve with PMIII. The cars can be total and complete mechanical assholes. Most by this point have likely cycled through a long string of owners that have no idea of the special needs the car has, premium fuel, turbocharger, brakes, etc, etc. Any pictures of further details of this one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted August 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 Not yet. All I know is that it has 'performance parts' power steering is gone, needs body work, and that the interior is kinda bad. I am hoping to look at it within a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted2bass Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 I have way more time into making PMIII play nice then anything else. I lost my first TGP to PMIII (t boned) and my current TGP has played chicken with PMIII a few times. That said, when it works right it works awesome. Make sure that A) the BRAKE and ANTI-LOCK lamps are present in the cluster at key on, and that they are not on or flashing. listen to the motor in it, it should run every 2-4 pedal presses, not all the time or not every press. Not trying to scare you away but be prepared for a learning curve with PMIII. The cars can be total and complete mechanical assholes. Most by this point have likely cycled through a long string of owners that have no idea of the special needs the car has, premium fuel, turbocharger, brakes, etc, etc. Any pictures of further details of this one? Wish I knew to look for this when I bought my TGP!!! Nunzi covered most of the bases. Be prepared for a big project for sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 they are worth putting in the same care any other car would need. main thing is upgrade the charge wiring and grounds before you even drive it the first time. by best piece of advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iroc2 Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 we ware gonan need pics.. i kinda forgot you were gonna look at it, jsut cuz i havent heard anythitng since.... keep us updated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 How much body work is my question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 If it's rotted out under the cladding but the rockers are nice and solid like my TGP, big deal. Cut out rust, weld in some sheet metal (wont have to be uber pretty since it's getting covered, throw on some good primer, paint and clear, and re-clad:thumbsup: Convert to vacuum brakes, dont let them scare you, it's alot of work, mainly time consuming removing the dash and all that fun stuff to change out the firewall plate, and then run new brake lines to the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 There is a black cover on the door jam... Remove that and look behind it to see rust... Post lots of pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 These cars require love, patience and more often than not some of your hard earned money, but they are rewarding little toys to boot around in when its all said and done. Very unique in todays sea of bland transportation. Just got back with mine from Tim Hortons hanging out with Ryan. Had the sunroof open, windows down. Merging on the highway on the way home the car was boosting good, stayed in it until 120 MPH, shes still got it. All the big points have been hit on. PM3, rust, trans issues, no valance / front bumper damaged (they are getting hard to find), chopped up AQ9s (you can reskin a drivers with a passenger skin). Turbos and crossovers can be rebuilt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 no valence= tranny eksplodes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twenty Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 It's a TGP. Save it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 TGP Buyers Guide, Chapter 1: DON'T DO IT! For the most part, they're really no different than buying any other used vehicle of this age. Some parts are more expensive though(PMIII!). If you can't do a lot of your own repairs, you might want to stay away from a beat-up TGP(or any other car) that needs a lot of work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted August 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 If I can't do it myself, I try anyways. Guy told me "it doesn't brake as well as it should and the brake pedal is stiff." So if PMIII is no good, what all do I need to convert to vacuum? Booster, MC, lines (probably make those myself) anything else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted August 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 Okay, got back from looking at the car. Power steering is inop as is PMIII. PMIII motor seens to constantly run? Possibly related issues? Surprisingly the car is clean save for the hood, trunk, a strut tower has some bad rust in a spot that may be repairable, but the trailing arm mounts are both toast. I really don't need this car but I want it so damn bad...should I? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 Hold out for one that is not rotted out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted August 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 That bad? I know the trailing arm mounts are really important, but didn't Amy just get new ones welded in? What kinda work did that take? The strut tower rust looks like it'd be a fairly simple fix with the strut out, just cut out and weld a patch in: Otherwise the underside is actually really minty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted August 28, 2011 Report Share Posted August 28, 2011 I've seen some rotbox first gens, but I've never seen a front strut tower rusted out like that. Yeah you can fix trailing arm mounts, that is an awful lot of work. I get the alure of a cheap turbo, I fell into that myself. All it got me was a good parts car in the end. Bottom line is that these things are simply not worth much and you can have a decent one for not a whole lot of coin, hold out. How deep do you want to go? once you get the side skirting off, how much car is left behind that, how much rear bumper impact bar is left? I get that its a limited run car but with the abundance of non rusted out, semi-decent ones I see that as an engine donor. Been there done that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.