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BXX (Bob)'s Front Coilover Mounts <<< awesomeness!


gpchris
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I'll start this off by saying I'm a perfectionist. When Im working on my car I make sure EVERYTHING is perfect. A lot of aftermarket parts leave a lot to be desired but these things are perfect.*I've tried all the aftermarket options as far as adjustable coilover springs for these cars and this setup is the best and also happens to be the cheapest.

 

The thing I like the most is the clearance. These will allow you to lower 3 or more inches more than Overkill or held. Even if you don't plan to lower the extra clearance will help protect the car if you hit a pothole.*

 

As far as quality these things are tough. The steel is thick enough to hold strong but not too thick to weight shit down. This is done by mounting the spring itself on a poly isolator very close to the body, that creates a nice wide pressure point that makes it impossible to puncture or bend the metal. The welds are deep and clean, honestly they almost look like a machine welded them.

 

I've tried every option available and these ARE the best. If you want to lower buy these now! You will not be disappointed! Bob is awesome to deal with. He always responds to all my texts and PM's same day.

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What do you charge for these Bob?

I may take a set off you at Dayton or something. I like the look of these far better than the Held design or the adjustable ones that Mark was making.

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What do you charge for these Bob?

I may take a set off you at Dayton or something. I like the look of these far better than the Held design or the adjustable ones that Mark was making.

 

$200, or $350 for fronts and rears as a set.

 

The Held design that Andrie has (think it came with the Stage 2 or 3 coilovers?) is very similar, but uses a crappy poly bushing for the strut attatchment.

 

 

And im stil pissed aboot the paint on those mounts, I was having trouble keeping my garage at temp so I can lay paint, and it was still a bit too cold and didnt lay right at all..:mad:

 

Unfortunately, there are no cheap powdercoaters around me:( Im gonna use Caliper paint next time as its tougher and lays much better even around 50 degrees.

 

 

The mounts are kinda made to order at this time, mainly due to the high material costs. Im slowly ordering double of what I need for my own car on some stuff so I can have a full set already made ready to ship for anyone who wants them, but thats prolly a month off. Working on other rear suspension stuff currently.

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$200, or $350 for fronts and rears as a set.

 

The Held design that Andrie has (think it came with the Stage 2 or 3 coilovers?) is very similar, but uses a crappy poly bushing for the strut attatchment.

 

 

And im stil pissed aboot the paint on those mounts, I was having trouble keeping my garage at temp so I can lay paint, and it was still a bit too cold and didnt lay right at all..:mad:

 

Unfortunately, there are no cheap powdercoaters around me:( Im gonna use Caliper paint next time as its tougher and lays much better even around 50 degrees.

 

 

The mounts are kinda made to order at this time, mainly due to the high material costs. Im slowly ordering double of what I need for my own car on some stuff so I can have a full set already made ready to ship for anyone who wants them, but thats prolly a month off. Working on other rear suspension stuff currently.

 

 

There is a guy in Monroe, MI that does amazing work at a great price. Just call him for a quote and ask if he accepts them in the mail.

 

http://www.jpcoatings.com/

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Unfortunately, im not located in Monroe, MI.

 

And sending these off to be powdercoated would increase the cost way too much. Ive tried to make these as affordable as possible for people.

 

My profit margin barely covers my time and shipping costs.

 

 

I did however talk to my welder, and he pointed me in the direction of a guy who does powdercoating. Apparently he is badass and has been running a powdercoating business for a while. Ill get ahold of him sometime on costs for in the future. Ill give people the option of having them powdercoated or not.

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get an old eletric oven off of CL for cheap and Powedercoat your self?

 

Thats what I want to do, but right now, I dont really have enough room in my garage for one. I already have a gas line out there for my furnace though.

 

On the flip side. DIY powdercoat really isnt nearly as tough as the professional stuff (I used to powerdercoat Semi rims for a living)

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You know Bxx...the more suspension goodies you roll out with, the more I wanna do a complete overhaul. :lol:

 

:lol: I'll be honest, its fricken addicting:lol:

 

You should see what im cooking up now. Almost done. Gots to notch moar tubing today and have them welded.

 

BMR can shove their $500 pricetag...:thumbsup:

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  • 2 weeks later...
dda2deed.jpg

 

I'll start this off by saying I'm a perfectionist. When Im working on my car I make sure EVERYTHING is perfect. A lot of aftermarket parts leave a lot to be desired but these things are perfect.*I've tried all the aftermarket options as far as adjustable coilover springs for these cars and this setup is the best and also happens to be the cheapest.

 

The thing I like the most is the clearance. These will allow you to lower 3 or more inches more than Overkill or held. Even if you don't plan to lower the extra clearance will help protect the car if you hit a pothole.*

 

As far as quality these things are tough. The steel is thick enough to hold strong but not too thick to weight shit down. This is done by mounting the spring itself on a poly isolator very close to the body, that creates a nice wide pressure point that makes it impossible to puncture or bend the metal. The welds are deep and clean, honestly they almost look like a machine welded them.

 

I've tried every option available and these ARE the best. If you want to lower buy these now! You will not be disappointed! Bob is awesome to deal with. He always responds to all my texts and PM's same day.

 

Now, Bob is my BFF for making my Regal go fast and getting my coilovers installed, and his work sacrifices nothing and leaves nothing to be desired, but 3" on top of the held mounts is a bit of a stretch. 3" of additional clearance on top of the Held mounts I'm using would basically have your spring riding up right against your hood without absolutely any spring seat guide. How do I know? I use the Held mounts on my car. I cut off 3/4" off the center pipe that holds the spring in place to get more clearance, and it is impossible to get any more than 1" of clearance on top of that by moving the mount to the top of the strut instead of underneath it.

 

 

$200, or $350 for fronts and rears as a set.

 

The Held design that Andrie has (think it came with the Stage 2 or 3 coilovers?) is very similar, but uses a crappy poly bushing for the strut attatchment.

 

What he said. The mount design is similar if not identical with that exception. No way in hell are you getting an extra 3" drop over that design. 1/2" maybe. If I had the money, I would be ordering a set from Bob right now, but I will have to see how much that crappy poly bushing for the strut attachment lasts. 21k miles so far and they're holding up fine. Crossing my fingers.

 

Oh and Bob, with the piece I cut off from that center pipe to allow more travel, my car is fucking low to the ground. Let me describe how low the car is. We have a gravel driveway, 400 feet or so. When it rains, the left and right sides where the tires track start to dip because the gravel gets eaten away and sinks into the ground very slightly. Lately, if I don't go slow enough down the driveway over those dips (I wouldn't even call them potholes because they're so shallow), my subframe (note, subframe, not air dam), will plow the gravel and send rocks flying.

 

Its hard to realize how low my car truly is till you realize that my 235/45/17 tires are more than 1" smaller in diameter than the stock tires. With the factory size tires in there, they are tucked into the fenders about 3/8", and we're talking Regal fenders, not GP fenders.

Edited by xtremerevolution
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Andrie, he's thinking of Held's Stage 1 IIRC that basically adds a spring seat and bearing to the stock mount. So yeah, over those you gain quite a bit. Since our stock mount bottom plate hangs down a good 2 inches (I have some sitting on a shelf that looks be aboot 2") and you add Held's mount adapter as I will call it, and that prolly takes up a good 3"

 

Im not saying the poly in the Held stage 2 or 3 or whatever mounts wont last forever, but Brian who you got the mounts off of had them on for aboot a year IIRC and the bushings were beyond shot. So thats why I had to get new ES bushings and then modify the hell outta them to make work.

 

And for strut mounting and damn near everything in general, spherical bearing > poly bushing:lol:

 

Not to mention, replacing the spherical bearings when they do actually fail (well they will make noise, not break) are cheap and easy.

 

The bushings, if they fail which they eventually will, your strut rod is gonna hammer the fuck outta your hood:willynilly: Cause the only safety part keeping the strut rod from shooting above the mount is a washer. It wont last long after the bushings die:lol:

 

That why I do not and will not make mounts with poly bushings. Even though the overall cost is a bit cheaper, it actually involves more time cutting tube for the center part that holds the bushings, and more welding. I pay by the weld.

 

My Snap-On rep is getting me a welder. Hopefully I will have it this week and can start getting everything else i need, Helmet, gloves, welding blanket, mig gas tank and regulators and then I will start welding. Once I get good enough to trust my welds, I will be doing the welding. Of course I will be my own guinnea pig:lol::lol:

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Andrie, he's thinking of Held's Stage 1 IIRC that basically adds a spring seat and bearing to the stock mount. So yeah, over those you gain quite a bit. Since our stock mount bottom plate hangs down a good 2 inches (I have some sitting on a shelf that looks be aboot 2") and you add Held's mount adapter as I will call it, and that prolly takes up a good 3"

 

Im not saying the poly in the Held stage 2 or 3 or whatever mounts wont last forever, but Brian who you got the mounts off of had them on for aboot a year IIRC and the bushings were beyond shot. So thats why I had to get new ES bushings and then modify the hell outta them to make work.

 

And for strut mounting and damn near everything in general, spherical bearing > poly bushing:lol:

 

Not to mention, replacing the spherical bearings when they do actually fail (well they will make noise, not break) are cheap and easy.

 

The bushings, if they fail which they eventually will, your strut rod is gonna hammer the fuck outta your hood:willynilly: Cause the only safety part keeping the strut rod from shooting above the mount is a washer. It wont last long after the bushings die:lol:

 

That why I do not and will not make mounts with poly bushings. Even though the overall cost is a bit cheaper, it actually involves more time cutting tube for the center part that holds the bushings, and more welding. I pay by the weld.

 

My Snap-On rep is getting me a welder. Hopefully I will have it this week and can start getting everything else i need, Helmet, gloves, welding blanket, mig gas tank and regulators and then I will start welding. Once I get good enough to trust my welds, I will be doing the welding. Of course I will be my own guinnea pig:lol::lol:

 

Ah, so the Stage 1 is just an adapter of sorts for the stock mount? Makes sense.

 

I've had the mounts on there under a year but 21k miles, so I should pull them out one of these days and see what they look like. I doubt most people drive more than 21k miles in a year anyway.

 

I suppose if I wanted a bit of safety to prevent the strut from hammering my hood were the bushings to ever fail completely, I could get a large washer installed underneath the strut nut so that if the bushing ever fails, the washer just beats against the top strut hat. I think I'd hear it making noise long before it breaks through.

 

Never did say that the poly is superior, just that it should last a decent amount of time. I would have bought your mounts instead of these, but I figured trading a rear birchmount leaf for a complete front coilover setup was a decent deal.

 

I should pop those poly bushings out one of these days and take some pictures. I need to get the shock bumpers installed anyway.

Edited by xtremerevolution
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That can be done very easily.

 

You interested?

I WAS, but I've been redoing my basement and it's pushing my CC towards the max, so i should really hold off. Any idea what you would want for just the rears?

 

 

p.s. sorry it took me so long to come back to this thread and reply.

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I WAS, but I've been redoing my basement and it's pushing my CC towards the max, so i should really hold off. Any idea what you would want for just the rears?

 

 

p.s. sorry it took me so long to come back to this thread and reply.

 

Ill have to dig into a Gen 2 mount setup one of these days. I know the strut diameters are different so that complicates the bearing sizing just a bit.

 

If you were to send me a stock strut mount, I can get a better idea. Price wouldnt be too far off the $200 mark.

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Ill have to dig into a Gen 2 mount setup one of these days. I know the strut diameters are different so that complicates the bearing sizing just a bit.

 

If you were to send me a stock strut mount, I can get a better idea. Price wouldnt be too far off the $200 mark.

cool, man. That's close enough. Hopefully I'll have my house done soon and consequently the upstairs rented out so I'll have some money coming in again.
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