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Found 297 results

  1. I am turning this over to Jake - 94CutlassVert. Okay, here's the deal. Crazy K and I are researching and building a private database of convertibles. This database will consist of VINs, exterior, interior and top colors, options, original wheels, ect. So what we need from our convertible owners is your VIN (you are welcome to leave off the last 3 or 6 digits if you are uncomfortable with giving us the entire VIN, no one will be using this info except for us to find out what options your car originally came with via a GM parts department. I, or we, will be more than happy to send you this printout if you like!) Your car's info will not be given to ANYONE else. It will simply go on a spreadsheet format that I have created and the printouts will be kept in my files. Many classifieds websites encourage sellers to add the VIN so people may run a BatFax! type report so there's something to think about as well. Even better will be a clear photo of the door jamb sticker (located on driver's door) and SPID label (located in trunk on the spare tire cover.) Also, convertibles you see in the junkyard, on dealer lots, for sale, ect...If you are able to, take down the VIN for us, we can obtain the RPOs and build date from there. Please send a private message (it will be deleted after obtaining the info) to 94CutlassVert with your VIN, build date (both of which are located inside the door jamb, check you VIN to make sure the car's door hasn't been replaced some time in it's life, send both VINs if so), colors & photos. I'd like to keep this post unclutterd, so just a PM will do. Thank you!!
  2. The Cutlass Supreme convertible top is a standard two-piece design. According to convertibletopguys.com: “Almost all Ford, GM and Chrysler convertible tops install as two separate units. They are the main top and the rear window section. This is the original design since the thirties and the design is fundamentally unchanged until much later…The rear window section is often called the ‘curtain.’†The original top on Cutlass Supreme convertibles was double texture pinpoint vinyl. When replacing the top, though, you have several options when it comes to materials (the following material explanations are excerpted in large part from 1aauto.com with some notes added and irrelevant material removed): Single Texture Pinpoint vinyl: This is the most common replacement material used for Cutlass Supreme convertibles. This is a good, durable vinyl that matches the grain of many original tops from the 40's to the 80's. This material weighs 36 ounces per square yard. The outside is a pinpoint vinyl while the inside is lined with cloth. Less expensive convertibles have been known to use this material. MOST aftermarket top seller's tout single texture vinyl as "the material the original OEM manufacturer used," when in fact most used double texture. To the untrained eye and hand it looks and may feel the same, but most cars that had a pinpoint vinyl top, built from the 40's to the 90's, used the double texture vinyl (Listed next). Although not the same, Single Texture Vinyl is still a good and commonly used replacement. It looks and feels nearly identical, will last almost as long, and for many restored vehicles that are garaged and covered, a single texture top could last 20 years or more if cared for properly. Double Texture Pinpoint vinyl (sometimes called Euro vinyl): 80% of Muscle cars and 40's - early 90's convertibles used double texture vinyl as the OEM material. The outside is a pinpoint vinyl while the inside is lined with cloth. Double texture vinyl weighs 38 ounces per square yard. The texture is a pinpoint texture nearly identical to single texture pinpoint vinyl. Double texture pinpoint costs a little more than the single texture pinpoint, however it is a more durable top and will last a few years longer. Single Texture Sailcloth vinyl: Many 90's convertibles such as Sebrings and Mustangs started using Sailcloth vinyl in place of pinpoint vinyl due to the fantastic texture. Standard interior color is black, gray interior cloth is available with some colors at an extra cost. The weight of Sailcloth vinyl is 36 ounces per square yard. Sailcloth vinyl material has a woven texture that resembles a "richer" cloth top. Color choices in Sailcloth vinyl are more limited than those in pinpoint vinyl. Stayfast Cloth: Stayfast is a tightly woven cloth canvas. The yarn is solution dyed BEFORE it is woven, creating a uniform color throughout. Domestic made or converted vehicles that came with a cloth top most likely used Stayfast cloth. Stayfast holds strong in both extremely hot and cold climates. Due to its richer look, Stayfast tops are more expensive. Stayfast color choices are limited and white is unavailable. Cutlass owners who want to give their car a more upscale appearance (and do not need or want a white top) have upgraded to a Stayfast top, and are almost universally pleased with its improved appearance/texture as compared to the original-style vinyl tops. When replacing the top, the window is almost always replaced as well. It is generally not recommended that you attempt to detach your existing glass window and try to re-use it. According to 1aauto.com: “Glass windows are bonded or heat sealed in to the vinyl or cloth surrounding them. It is very difficult to install just the glass in to a vinyl curtain and it will cost you about as much to have this done as it is for a brand new window and curtain. If your window and the attached fabric are in good condition, you can re-use them, but the vinyl may not match the new top.†It is possible to replace the top with one containing a plastic window, but this is not recommended, as plastic windows looks cheap, are very flimsy, and scratch easily. Please allow the Cutlass ‘vert to retain its dignity by using a glass-windowed top, and leave the plastic windows to the Geo and Cavalier ‘verts. When selecting a glass window with your new top, you will have the option of choosing one with or without a defroster. The headliner is usually re-used if still in acceptable condition. Same with the top pads and cables, though there is some difference of advice here. Some websites recommend new pads and side cables with every new top, and new rear cables with every other top, while other sites and installers say that the side cables and pads only need to be replaced when their condition warrants it. It’s up to you. Most convertible manuals indicate that the complete top install takes about 10 hours, 7 for the main top piece, and 3 for the “curtain†(the secondary piece that holds the window). Labor costs can range from $400 to $1000, depending on the installer’s hourly rate. Some shops may allow you to buy the top and bring it to them, but be aware that some will inflate their labor a bit to compensate for the lost profit from selling you the top through them, and also may not warranty the installation, since they can’t verify the quality of a top brought to them by a customer. This means that you would have to make sure it looked right before leaving the shop. Convertibletopguys.com give some excellent advice: “If you decide to "hire out" the job: * Go to your yellow pages. Look under "automobile seat covers, upholstery and tops." Select a couple of shops and visit or call them. You want to determine that is their policy to provide installation service on tops that are not purchased from the shop. * Many shops are dealers themselves and represent a top manufacturer and will not want to sacrifice this re-sale aspect of their profit. Be wary of any shop that disparages a product that it does not carry. Although it is true that quality can vary, no company should use "scare tactics" to get your business.†While it is highly recommended that you have the top installed by a professional, it is possible, with patience and the correct tools, to install the top yourself. Be aware that it will likely take an inexperienced installer several times longer than a professional. Convertibletopguys.com sells a universal two-piece top manual, and it is also possible to acquire an original GM instructional video for the Cutlass ‘Vert top that several have said was a real help when installing the top themselves. If you will be buying a top to take to an installer, or will be attempting the install yourself, you will need to decide where to get a top from. Here are just a few sources (that also represent a range of the brands available) that sell Cutlass ‘vert tops: Topsonline.com—They have the best prices found to this point, though their selection is a bit limited (for example, they don't offer sailcloth texture option). The tops they sell for the Cutlass 'Verts are EZ-on, the most widely sold brand. Their quality is considered to be good. Convertibletopguys.com—They sell tops as part of a kit that includes side cables and pads. Their tops are Kee Tops, supposedly a pretty premium brand (though one installer I contacted said that “they think a lot of their tops [because of the higher price] but I’ve never noticed that they were any better than EZ-onâ€). This site is well-known for their knowledge and customer service. Several have commented that they were pleased with their transaction. Kee tops are also sold on sears.com’s website here: http://auto.sears.com/Oldsmobile-Cutlass-Convertible-Tops/600025340-200743174-1994-10623.htm. 1aauto.com—Their tops are made by Acme Headliner, and are supposed to be pretty good quality. These tops, at present (3/09) are the ones most commonly seen on Ebay. EZsofttops.com—They also carry EZ-on tops. Their prices are higher than topsonline.com, but they have a wider selection, offering sailcloth tops in various colors, including the “Brite White†that is the correct color white color for Cutlass ‘verts. JC Whitney—They have historically carried Electron tops. Some sources say that this is the economy brand of convertible tops, though one installer I contacted did actually say they were is favorite because of how easy they are to install. Electron tops are also available through Electrontop.com and topsdown.com. Robbins Tops—arguably the highest end brand, they only sell the main top piece, not the curtain. Their tops are sold through regional distributors. Wherever you buy your top from, make sure it comes with a 5-year warranty. This is pretty much standard. If they don’t offer this, their tops are probably of lesser quality than average. Cylinders and pumps are still available from a few sources. One is http://www.hydroe.com/Oldsmobile_Cutlass.html. If anyone can think of anything else that is needed, let me know and I’ll modify this thread.
  3. As we discussed in the last thread regarding how much wattage you can run on a factory system, we noticed that our factory 105 amp alternators are not capable of producing enough power to feed a JL Audio 1000.1 amplifier, with wiring and the alternator being the two key issues. To resolve the alternator issue, there are, fortunately, factory replacement options that we can embrace. Fortunately for us, GM used the same mounting points for multiple alternators . The common CS130 and CS130D used in many of our cars can be replaced with the GM CS144 (or CS-144). The CS144 amplifier comes in varieties that produce from 140 amps to 200 amps, with supposedly a 250 amp model also available. These can typically be found in larger cars and SUVs. The following link will outline the available models: http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130...uv_upgrade.htm If anyone is considering running over 500W of amplifier power, you will certainly need to consider upgrading your alternator. I will be doing more research in the next few days on which cars you can pull these alternators from at a junkyard for cheap. If anyone has any particular range of models off the top of your head, please list them.
  4. Please circle November 1st, 2014 in your calendar, that will be the last day to submit pictures. As per usual ediquette, if you have your car featured in the calendar you are expected to be buying one. I am looking into options for uber-big, uber-glossy calendars or the standard: Cafe Press regular calendars. More announcements & details to come along with an address to submit your photos to. Due to the rather large collection of photos that I have if you want one of my pics of your car (not someone elses), just contact me with the picture name. They are all numbered if you save one from the meet threads.
  5. So I'm going to try to work in some different venues for this year since it's the 10th anniversary, but while I research some different options, I figured we can throw together a Herrick Lake cookout meet in the meantime. For those of you that attended the last one of 2014, you may recall we tried a different approach to that one. Instead of everyone bringing something off the checklist to contribute towards the cookout, I just purchased everything we needed, and everyone just brought $5 cash to chip in towards the total cost. If that works for everyone, I think we may try that again. Keeps the planning part of it a lot easier. As for a date, how does May 30 work? MAY 30TH IT IS. OFFICIAL POST WITH INFO FOR THE MEET CAN BE FOUND HERE: http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/81344
  6. my grand prix is intercooled with a phenolic air to water intercooler. I am weighing my options for going turbo and am thinking about using the existing intercooler to cool the turbo air. I'm told its less efficient, but will it still be good enough?
  7. jack123203

    99 GTP tune options?

    I have a 99 GTP with just basic mods, im putting in xp104's today finally haha. Im looking for tune options.... online ive seen jet tuners and thats about it? are they good do they work? what do you suggest. im looking for something simple, just plug into the obd and off i go, obviously id be okay with plugging it into a computer and updating. but what do you guys think? thanks
  8. ALright guys its offical, i have begun the swap, i will be posting a tonne of pics of the progress for your watching pleasure. im im doing this in my driveway for the time being and will pull the engine at a local gm dealership that has agreed to let me use their shop over a weekend anyways for starters, even when doing this yourself if you ever decide to do it, take alot of pictures, its will help refresh your memory on re assembly if required. Start of the swap, there is a few options, either you can pull the engine first or tackle the dash, or if you have help, you can have one on each. i decided to start on the interior. its pretty basic but time consuming, a 7mm, 10mm, extentions and 13mm are your best friends. im not going to get into details as the pics say enough for the interior, but for other stuff more details will be had to make things easier on yourself label all the connections like i am doing. im about an hour into the interior and here is my progress
  9. ManicMechanic

    TGP in Omaha auction

    https://www.iaai.com/Vehicles/VehicleDetails.aspx?auctionID=0&itemID=17397261&RowNumber=69&loadRecent=True 1G5WP14V6LF273440 red/tan all 3 options 120863 miles 3/19/90 date
  10. HI from Illinois Just picked a 93 OLDS CUT SUP convt. It's white BLK top Graphite leather interior 108,00. It's my first one. Top works, AC works along with other options...all for $800
  11. 95regal

    95 regal coupe battery options?

    I have a 95 regal coupe with a weak battery.I'm sort of hurting for $ at the moment and have a new optima red top with top and side terminals. It looks like I can fit it in the bracket but I am worried about the washer tank and that the terminals on the optima seem 2 close together. Any suggestions? Thanks Dave Sent from my SPH-M820-BST using Tapatalk 2
  12. First off, my contact info so anyone can join us at anytime and I can lead everyone to the group or the next stop Al Walker 4193764073 We will all be staying at the Red Roof Inn again, the reservations are set up and ready to be booked. Reservation is under W-body. Red Roof Inn 1570 South Reynolds rd Toledo, OH 43614 419-893-0292 Room rate is 64.99 per night, I tried getting it cheaper, but to no avail. Friday night plans are to get checked into the hotel and eat dinner at Jeds, Jeds is in the same parking lot so you can just walk over and join the member that have already arrived Saturday morning we will head over to Sidecut park and have lunch, we will grill up some burgers and hot dogs and have other snacks as well Sidecut Metropark 1025 West River rd Maumee, Oh 43537 Map: Saturday after the park, some people will want to go junkyarding, some will want to go to the bowling alley, some will want to play putt putt, all these options are available, I can post more on those later Saturday evening, Dinner at Shawns at 730 Shawns Irish Tavern 4400 Heatherdowns Blvd Toledo, OH 43614 Map: Saturday after the bar we will most likely come back to the hotel and hang out Sunday morning, breakfast at Bob Evans, I would like to reserve the table for 10am, this may be too early for some of our crew Bob Evans 2433 South Reynolds Rd Toledo, OH 43614 Map:
  13. '93RegalGS3800

    1993 Regal 3800 Exhaust Options

    Awhile ago I fixed the wiring harness from rodent damage and installed a new intake manifold. in the midst of installing the intake I left one important part out of the equation...The PCV valve. Car smoked like a MF-er and the exhaust might as well been the equivalent of a fog machine on steroids. Ended up clogging the cateletic converter (BLAH ). Now it's totally shot and I'm wondering if I should just delete it. Lets be honest...Cats are damaged by crap that happens upstream in the engine. This is the second one that the car is on and I wanna not have to fool with putting another one in when it would be cheaper just to get a piece of pipe to delete it with. Thing is that if I delete the cat then thanks to the computer the engine will be running in this weird thing called "open loop" all the time causing it to run rich. Is there any way I can fool the computer into thinking that the cat still exists? I'd rather not fool with excessive aftermarket stuff. My car is OEM spec and I don't really want to tamper with it too much. I'd prefer to keep it as close as it was when it came off the assembly line. If there is a reliable way to delete the cat without any extreme aftermarket stuff then that would be easier for me to do. If I ever mod a W then I'll get another and do that pipe dream RWD conversion I've always wanted to do. With that in consideration I'm open to any and all advise and suggestions.
  14. Hey all. A couple weeks ago, I pulled out of my drivewayand heard a hard thud, then heard or felt nothing abnormal until later that night when I heard this metal-bouncing sound. Then part of my rear sway bar snapped off and hit the road. So what are my best options? It's a 98 Monte LS; I work at a parts store and we cannot order a rear sway bar, and GM can't get me one.
  15. My Bilstein Shocks are completely worn out after 80k miles and my rear tires are showing it. The cheapest I can find replacement Bilstein HD shocks are around 250 a piece, which is a bit steep. Can anyone find these shocks at a cheaper price, or the best alternative to them? I've looked the Bilstein non HD shock and KYB excel G shock and thats what I'm debating about using but all opinions are welcome.
  16. Hi, just purchased a 2000 buick regal LS for cheap and already began work on the engine. I've been researching suspension upgrades and I've hit a wall; specifically with dampers. I have seen coil overs offered from a few speciality vendors but they all seem shitty. The best they offer in their solutions is AGX. It's a decent damper for the money but I'm seeking more. Is there a specific koni yellow that can easily be modified to fit? I don't see why there isn't more suspension options available for the W body platform. We have speed parts but handling leaves much to be desired.
  17. So one of my buddies is willing to sell me a complete L67 in parts minus the Supercharger. Everythings in good condition,engine block has been cleaned up and everything but i need to put everything back together. He told me that i could take the heads which have bigger valves (I presume) with L36 pistons and L67 internals to make it stronger and add a comp cam kit also... Anyway you guys have any suggestions?? I'm not looking for something really fast... just something a little bit more fun! Thanks
  18. JC316

    4t65-e questions.

    Hey guys, I'm new here, but not new to mechanics. I've got an 00 Silhouette, I know, not a W body, but the power train is the same, and the transmission is busted. No 4th gear, harsh shifts when hot, P1811 in the history codes on it etc. I figure that I have two options on it. One, I can go in, change the pressure solenoid, change out the 4th gear clutch hub and pray for the best. My second option is to just change the transmission with a used one, which seems like the best option since it's such a cheap tranny. My question comes in as to what the difference is between the BRB and BCB codes? I found a chart on here that shows them to be identical. Same ratios, same converter, same everything. I tried googling this info, but I haven't found anything. Most GM transmissions that I have encountered only care about the gear ratios or the TCC solenoids, but that seems to be the same on both.
  19. Okay starting this post to be more on the point of suspension issues with the w body regals and our options on what to upgrade. Please school me if needed and i do need some. I have in boxs kyb gr2 struts. Should i buy new stock springs? If i do go with lowering springs are the zzp ones a good option? I am only looking for the 1inch drop they advertise. Let me know what you think. I may be re-using the old springs depending on what you guys say.
  20. Hi guys. On my 98 Regal GS, I installed a CAI. Well I helped to install it. Doing so required me to remove my Coolant bottle. I read that for the 1999 model year, the bottle was relocated to the passenger side strut brace. I considered purchasing a 99 Coolant bottle but unfortunately that is where the ABS unit is mounted on my 98. I also got a different type of rad cap that was required when installing the CAI. I know there's 2 main types of caps. It's not the OEM type but that 'other' one. I can't remember the name but it has a spring in its assembly. Anyway, as it stands, I have no recovery bottle. Just a hose that leads to the ground. I bought the CAI from another GS owner who's car had been KO'd and was parting it out. He knows these cars very very well and is a certified mechanic. He told me that with the cap and no bottle, he didn't lose any coolant in the 2 months he had it installed (new part) but recommended to check the levels every 3 months (I don't drive the car much anyway). My question is: Would you run a bottle anyway? What are my options? Neither a 98 or 99 + bottle will work. I would basically need a smaller bottle to mount somewhere out of the way but wonder if I need one at all? Where to buy one? Or do you think the cooling system will be ok without the bottle? Thanks
  21. anyone with a regal coupe have any advice as far as modding the headlights/Tail lights? kinda wanna go an LED route for the tails.and for the headlights no clue yet.
  22. Hi everybody, I'm Intrigued but you can call me Luke if you want. I'm a soon to be W-body owner in CT. I've owned a 1999 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor for over a year now and it's really fun, but aftermarket options are really slim for it and it's incredibly expensive to fuel. My girlfriend's dad has a 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue with 173k on it and all the luxuries put in (not that I care much about those) and he's giving it to me for free because he likes me ! I'm going to sell the Crown Vic and register the car really soon. It's not in my possession yet because he's so nice that he's having the car get looked over by a mechanic to be confident that it will treat me well. I think I might be picking it up tomorrow. Some people my age go the direction of putting in a fancy stereo and doing dramatic things to the body of a car, those look cool, but I really don't care too much. The first thing I'm going to do with this car is work on upgrading and replacing steering and suspension parts to improve handling. Eventually I'd love to upgrade the engine to be either turbo or supercharged, and of course give it the HD transaxle. But first things first, I'm going to just enjoy having the car and cleaning it up I'll keep you all posted!
  23. derkach99

    1994 Cutlass trip to the junk yard.

    Hello, Today I picked up parts for my 1994 Olds Cutlass 4Dr and I got excited and grabbed some upgraded stock options and I have a couple questions. I pukked a bunch of parts from a 1994 Cutlass 2dr with the same blue interior as mine!!! I have an analog climate control and I picked up the electronic climate control. Is this upgrade possible with ease? I am hearing some bad things. I also picked up a steering wheel with the radio controls, how hard is it to install and make the buttons work in my cutlass that doesn't have this option? Finally I also picked up an upgraded stock radio, Once again how does this upgrade go? I found that the cutlass in the junk yard was like my candy store! Feel free to share if you find Cutlass in junk yards fun to salvage. Also I took the dash apart in the junk Cutlass and I found it very easy to what I thought it would have been, yay 1994 model year!
  24. guys, got a nice high pitched, fast, repititive, chirp seems to come directly from power steering pump. been checking it out online and find a lot of posts say flushing will fix it, a lot seem to think its the belt. seems come directly from the pump. Fluid in there does pretty much look like mud.. I'm much more inclined to just replace. seems like any noises from pumps like this indicated its just a matter of time.. Come to find out there's about 4 different options for types of pumps. what's the best way to tell? any personal accounts or recommendations??? Thanks!
  25. Alright, so I've been looking around at what suspension upgrades are available for my car (92 Lumina Euro 3.4L). I haven't come up with much at all and most of the threads I found with links to parts are now dead links. So basically I've found all of KYB GR2s for the front and an aluminum wishbone (not sure where to get one). The car already has stock shock tower braces, so what else is still available for this thing? Looking to put a nicer than stock set of springs and struts on it, any extra bracing I might be missing, and some decent tires. Currently it bounces around like a bucking bull on a bumpy road, so anything is an improvement, really. What other models share the same parts as mine (Monte Carlo, Grand Prix, etc.), if any? Parts sites don't seem to list hardly anything for Luminas. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2
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