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4-hi headlight mod.


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Posted

factory wires for the individual headlamps in a 92 lumi are 16, just FYI, but it should live with 18.

Posted

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

 

for extra assurance. 18 gauge can safely carry ~16 amps. since you're only powering the low beams with the relay, that's 55 watts X 2 divided by 12.8 volts = ~8.6 amps. obviously, you'll see more than 12.8 volts often, but even then, still plenty of headroom.

Posted

I've been running quad high beams for months and haven't melted any wires. I used 18ga for all of them. The only problem I had was my relay corroding and shorting, but that was my fault for the location.

Posted

If you need a diagram for a Monte with DRL's, I have the 4-hi done in mine, that works with the DRLs and keeps their functionality. I'm working on adding a capacitor to smooth the flicker that is present when switching from low to all 4 (high beam) on.

Posted

No, it's not a breaker issue. I should clarify that I have HID's in the lows and since I have those wired to a relay for power, instead of relying on stock wiring (I was having the typical HID issues initially drawing off of the car's harness), that there is a split second when the dimmer switch is re-routing the power, that the HID B+ relay loses power until the "4-hi" relay re-supplies power the low-beam/ HID circuit. It's brief, but enough of a delay to cause a brief, single flash, flicker effect. It's an oversight on my part, but isn't really a big deal as I'm the only one who notices it. I'll essentially be adding a smoothing cap to the relay's coil circuit.

 

Also, the only additional part needed for the Monte's with DRL's is a low-amp diode. I'll try to dig up my 'ol diagram.

Posted
I'm not really sure how it would work since you have DRLs...
I was thinking the same. It was wishful thinking more then anything. Lol!
Posted
No, it's not a breaker issue. I should clarify that I have HID's in the lows and since I have those wired to a relay for power, instead of relying on stock wiring (I was having the typical HID issues initially drawing off of the car's harness), that there is a split second when the dimmer switch is re-routing the power, that the HID B+ relay loses power until the "4-hi" relay re-supplies power the low-beam/ HID circuit. It's brief, but enough of a delay to cause a brief, single flash, flicker effect. It's an oversight on my part, but isn't really a big deal as I'm the only one who notices it. I'll essentially be adding a smoothing cap to the relay's coil circuit.

 

actually, this makes perfect sense and has been something i've been thinking about for a while. another option other than an actual relay would be to wire up a high current transistor, that way supplying power will be instantaneous, which is likely the route i'll take.

Posted

Hmm only took you guys 2 years to do this... Welcome aboard. Its probably my single most favorite mod to do to GM vehicles of all types.

 

Btw, I wanted to ask Robert. You seemed to be tripping on the "Factory breaker" and the way I wired mine looks a lot like your diagram.... While I have had no issues at all in the 2 years, I would like to see the difference in wiring you are referring too to in regards to the breaker.

 

Using your diagram as an example, could you quickly draw one showing me the difference? Visuals help and I would really like to see what you were after back in 2010.. :thumbsup: Thanks.

Posted

NVM, I see what you were on about here and Forgive my fuzzy train of thought this morning I am not a morning person :lol:. Could you dig up a diagram for the newer cars and apply the magic touch to remove the factory breaker...?

 

BTW, since this mod was done I have also disabled my "automatic light" feature, but opted to keep the DRL. I hated the Buick's automatic lighting because it would turn the lights on at weird times. Now I get to turn on the lights when I want.. not when the car decides to.

Posted

BTW, since this mod was done I have also disabled my "automatic light" feature, but opted to keep the DRL. I hated the Buick's automatic lighting because it would turn the lights on at weird times. Now I get to turn on the lights when I want.. not when the car decides to.

 

I had the same problem with my auto lights, so I done the same. I disabled my drls, but hooked them back up because I actually like them better on.

Posted
I had the same problem with my auto lights, so I done the same. I disabled my drls, but hooked them back up because I actually like them better on.

 

Agreed! I prefer having them too, I found them quite useful during the winter months. Travelling on some stormy nights it was better for me to turn the headlights off causing the bright amber DRL's to illuminate, made for better visibility that way actually.

Posted
got a specific year/model in mind?

 

heck any quad light w-body 2000+ should suffice. I would bet money the wiring is the same.

Posted

interesting: 03 century doesn't use any headlight breakers? just a pair of fuses(one for each side), each rated for 15 amps.

Posted
interesting: 03 century doesn't use any headlight breakers? just a pair of fuses(one for each side), each rated for 15 amps.

 

I gotta check my Haynes manual again, but IIRC you are correct. That is less worrisome than the single breaker.. I wish the cooling fans were programmed a little better though. :think:

Posted

the miniquads-->

 

fogs only work with low beam

 

high beam has both low and high illuminated and the fogs are off

  • 11 years later...
Posted

Much simpler way to do this is to pull the headlight dimmer relay and jump a wire from pin 30 to pin 87a and then plug it back in. Boom dual hi and low beams. You're welcome 

Posted

Oh man thanks for reminding me I wanted to do something like this years ago. I approve of the the thread bump.

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