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Factory radio and subwoofers?


91LuminaEuro
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Ok, so i've got the radio from my 01 monte, which is a CD player unit.

 

I've also got the radio from my 02 parts monte, its a CD cassette unit. This car had a factory amp in under the rear package tray.

 

Are there any differences other than the obvious or advantages? They both work great.

 

 

Will these have outputs for subwoofers? Or do i need to go aftermarket HU to hook up my subs?

I've got 2 12' subs with a 1200watt amp (i think)

 

I'm not one for knowing much on car stereos.

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One of them is gonna go into my Montecarlo when its all said in done, (Project L36 BBQ) the other i'll be selling.

 

Well they will be going in the monte if i can keep it as well as hook up my subs.

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Cutlass supremes and grand prixs had a factory amp that feeds off of the four line feeds that powers a subwoofer...

 

 

don't forget you have an RDS radio, which is locked to the VIN. You'll need to have it programmed it it does not match the BCM or PCM that came with the car...

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Well I'm taking the entire wiring harness from the car with the factory amp and the cf/cassette. And putting it into the. Other car so the rds shouldn't be an issue because I'm swapping the pcm and stuff too

 

So since its got a factory amp, I should be able to hook up my aftermartket amp and subs?

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There's already a thread in here about it, but many of us like running the factory HU's because:

 

1.) SWRC

2.) Cheaper

3.) Doesn't scream out there's a good stereo in here to steal

4.) Matches the remainder of the interior and colours

 

I would guestimate that at least 60% of non-useless amps made today have a hi-low converter on them.

 

Basically what you can do is take the rear speaker wires, splice them and then draw one of each to the Amp in your trunk. Most amps will have a hi-low converter if they don't they can be had for approx $25 for both. The hi-low converter takes the power that you're sending to R & L + & - and converts it into pure signal, so that you don't overwhelm the amp, you can still control the volume with your HU, you basically dial the sub for how much precentage of the sound you want out of the Sub vs. the other speakers in the car. I've had this setup on two cars now, works like a charm.

 

People will tell you that you can lose 5% of sound quality by doing this or some stupid number, but let's be realistic, if you're rebounding sound off of your trunk deck and then through your rear seats, you have a complex about you if you're worried about losing a little, little bit of sound quality.

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DON'T hook up subs to the factory lines in any impala/monte with the amp under the trunk. I did this once and no matter HOW I wired it it sounded terrible. The sub was barely audible, and when I did finally get sound out of it it was distorted and would have quickly ruined the sub had I continued to use it.

 

I say this knowing how to install audio equipment, something is odd about the signals that are used with the RDS radios and amp's.

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DON'T hook up subs to the factory lines in any impala/monte with the amp under the trunk. I did this once and no matter HOW I wired it it sounded terrible. The sub was barely audible, and when I did finally get sound out of it it was distorted and would have quickly ruined the sub had I continued to use it.

 

I say this knowing how to install audio equipment, something is odd about the signals that are used with the RDS radios and amp's.

 

My thoughts were to leave the 4 speakers in the car hooked to the factory amp, and then run my aftermarket amp from the factory amp and the subs off of the aftermarket amp.

 

Does that make sense? and would it work?

 

 

 

I've got a little knowledfe on this stuff , but i want to put it all together since im gonna have the car torn appart because it will make wire routing much easier.

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Yes I understand that's what you want to do, and that's what I was trying to do in my scenario. I was using a LOC (line out converter) off the speaker leads both before and after the factory amp, and neither one sounded good at all. It's got something to do with the signal from the factory equipment. I've never had as much trouble with integrating a sub with a factory system as I did in that monte.

 

You're better off getting an aftermarket radio with sub pre-outs, and using an integration harness to retain the factory amp and speakers.

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Okay, so i have some more questions..

 

1. Line output converters?? How do these work, and how are they hooked up and would this be a decent idea to hook up my subs?

 

2. Looking for an iPod adapter for my factory head unit that isnt an over the air FM transmitter. Found this one at work for a decent price. By the looks of it, it hooks up to the antenna, and instead of having 2 bands of FM channels, you have Band1 of fm channels and band2 is your aux input. Looks like it should work well, and i know the brand is decent. Thoughts? Ideas? Experiences?

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A LOC should work fine for you. Although i always suggest going with a aftermarket radio. You will have better control of the subs and overall sound in your car, plus most aftermarket radios now have direct USB inputs for ipods, or really any usb device. Plus the overall look and control of a aftermarket unit is generally better then factory. I would seriously consider an aftermarket headunit, especially since you want to run a amp and play your ipod.

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I understand that aftermarket is clearly going to be a better option. However, with my other options which would be best is i guess my actual question.

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I understand that aftermarket is clearly going to be a better option. However, with my other options which would be best is i guess my actual question.

 

Aftermarket radio with 3 sets of pre-outs. End of story. In the end it will sound better, it will be a cleaner job, it will be more capable, and will be much easier to upgrade in the future.

 

I don't care how much a factory unit matches my interior, I would not use one if you paid me. They don't have line inputs, they don't have USB connectivity, and they have terrible or non-existent EQ controls.

Edited by xtremerevolution
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Like i said i do understand aftermarket will give me a much better quality sound. That just not what i want to do with this project, yet.

 

Im looking to stay factory for now, so im looking for input on how to achieve the best out of what i would like to use.

Edited by 91LuminaEuro
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Yes I understand that's what you want to do, and that's what I was trying to do in my scenario. I was using a LOC (line out converter) off the speaker leads both before and after the factory amp, and neither one sounded good at all. It's got something to do with the signal from the factory equipment. I've never had as much trouble with integrating a sub with a factory system as I did in that monte.

 

You're better off getting an aftermarket radio with sub pre-outs, and using an integration harness to retain the factory amp and speakers.

 

Like i said i do understand aftermarket will give me a much better quality sound. That just not what i want to do with this project, yet.

 

Im looking to stay factory for now, so im looking for input on how to achieve the best out of what i would like to use.

 

You want subs that sound good, and you want to hook up an Ipod and not have it sound like ass. Hooking it up to the antenna will be more work. How much does that antenna transmitter cost anyway? I'm not seeing your logic here. You're willing to put money into a transmitter that you aren't even sure will work or sound properly, so you can also buy a line input converter if your amp doesn't have high level inputs (more money), instead of just putting that money and probably a couple bucks more into a proper head unit, harness, and a 17 foot RCA cable and doing it right the first time. What value is there in staying stock? Making your life more difficult? I can't see it being any easier.

 

Alec_B already stated that from his experience, it might sound like shit. Are you willing to go through the hassle to buy the parts and have either the LOC or that antenna transmitter (or both) sound like crap, have to return them both after all of the work, and end up having to put in an aftermarket head unit anyway?

 

I understand if you had a newer car like my Bonneville GXP. I ran a LOC for my sub amp and ran high level inputs for the stereo amp for the rear 6x9's, but that was because I'd have to get an expensive adapter to keep the door chimes, onstar, and a few other gadgets working properly in the car if I went with an aftermarket head unit as they're built into the head unit in my car. I'm not sure if you have that problem.

 

If you're stuck on using factory equipment, then wire up your adapter and your LOC and let us know how it sounds. I'm not holding my breath that they'll be worth the time and money to install, not when a good Pioneer or JVC head unit with Aux input, USB input, and 3 pre-outs can be had for ~$120.

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1. Line output converters?? How do these work, and how are they hooked up and would this be a decent idea to hook up my subs?

 

A LOC will have 4 input wires on it. Find out the colors for the following wires coming out of the back of the radio. RR+ RR- LR+ LR- I would suggest using some additional speaker wire to run the LOC to an accessible location under that dash rather than burying it in the dash.

 

You could tap into the speaker wires near the rear 6x9s, and that might be a lot easier. But I would not do this if your car has a factory amp that has already amplified the signal.

 

I spent a little more than normal on my LOC because it has an adjustment knob so that I can control the level of the bass from the subwoofer without affecting the bass on the other speakers. (Mostly for when the kids are in the car.) I mounted it on the lower dash using 3M velcro tape so I would not have to drill holes through the plastic. It is a PAC LC-2.

 

But there are good brands on ebay for as little as $3 + shipping for a standard one.

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I'm not looking for premium quality sound, good sound would be sufficient. You're 100% right with everything you have said and i never denied that nor am i now. I just don't want to go aftermarket just yet. I can pick up a the iPod adapter for around $20 and the LOC for $9 so if i can make those work for now, until i can invest in a quality aftermarket HU then thats what i would like to do.

 

I've already got the subs,box,amp,wiring kit for that stuff new in box, i bought for my lumina years ago but never installed.

 

So until i can save up for a good quality HU id like to stick with this for now anyways.

 

BTW this will be going in my 01 Monte SS (project l36 BBQ) when its all said and done.

Edited by 91LuminaEuro
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Well, and let me add this, since these are RDS radios, and i know things like the security system and the RKE remotes can be dealt with through the factory radio, will aftermarket cause any problems?

 

I'd also like to keep my SWRC as well, so thats something im taking into consideration.

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Anybody have input on the RDS radios and how hard they are to change out? I'm gonna program a secodn remote for the car before i swap the radio if i go aftermarket, i know that much.

 

I also know i can get the adapter for the SWRC i priced them at $46 for my monte.

 

 

Thanks for the input. xtreme, the more i think about it the more you're probably right. Its gonna be easier to run wiring now, with the car appart than later with the car together.

 

So as long as the RDS doesn't cause too many problems i may be lookin into aftermarket HU's..

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My car is gonna have a double din mounting style right? So i should be looking at radios that can work with that, as well as are gonna be compatible with a PAC-audio swi-jack adapter for the SWRC correct?

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I have a Peripheral iPod interface in my truck (Delco CD, non-RDS) and I have problems with it. This style uses the CD changer port on the back of the unit. It always switches from stereo to just passenger side audio. It's really annoying. I'd stay away from Peripheral if at all possible in the off chance that converter is theirs.

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