GTP091 Posted May 14, 2010 Report Share Posted May 14, 2010 I have another batch of parts almost ready to go to the powder coater and I want to send a 34mm sway bar in as well. I'll be keeping my bar on my car and plan to get a spare from JY while I wait for poly bushings to show up. Does anybody know if I need a bar from a GP or will a bar from a Z34 be the same as mine? There's usually more luminas in the yard than GPs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted May 14, 2010 Report Share Posted May 14, 2010 a 34mm swaybar is a 34mm swaybar regardless of what car it came from Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted May 15, 2010 Report Share Posted May 15, 2010 I did the same thing, got one cheap out of a Z and had it powder-coated then swapped it in when I did all 4 poly bushings......then sold my 34mm to another member who had a 30mm stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTP091 Posted May 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2010 Ok thanks for the replies. If they are the same as you say I'll have to pull one the next time I'm at the JY. It will be interesting to see how the subframe drops to get it out. Nice I can try it on another car before my own. Is there any sense in replacing any of the subframe hardware while it's lowered? Does GM use any rubber isolators in them? I'll always see when I take it apart. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted May 15, 2010 Report Share Posted May 15, 2010 I supported the front sub-frame cross member on jack stands, then put a jack in the middle of the rear sub-frame cross member and loosened the two rear mounts and lowered it using the jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTP091 Posted May 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2010 Hmm. I had thought the front were just loosened a bit to allow some tilt. Are the bolts on the front not long enough? If the jasckstands need to stay on the front subframe like you say I will need another way to support the body or maybe another pair of jackstands... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 I was able to get one in without dropping the rear of the subframe at all. Front of the car has to be in the air, but I got it in with some creative turning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTP091 Posted May 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 I was able to get one in without dropping the rear of the subframe at all. Front of the car has to be in the air, but I got it in with some creative turning. Sounds similar to alternator removal. Were you able to do this without hammers and scratching pieces of the unibody to bare metal? If this is doable I'd rather give it a try as I have a feeling the subframe bolts may be a bitch to get out without heat and alot of cussing. Again the donor car I find will be a great guinea pig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 No hammers for sure, not sure how much gouging of the body was involved... not much IIRC. But the car I did it on was a POS and I didn't really care if it got scratched up. when you drop rear of subframe probably a good idea to disconnect the column from the rack, 11mm bolt needs to be removed. and just use a good 6 point 15mm on the subframe bolts and you should be just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 When I put a 34mm bar in my TGP, I unbolted the rack from the subframe, and loosened and lowered only the rear. Keep in mind you should also unbolt your dogbone(s). There was NO way I was getting it in with the subframe up. (hitting the DP) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 I've done it multiple times by jacking the car up, placing the body on jackstands, jacking up the rear of the frame, removing the bolts and lowering the frame about 2-3 inches. This without disconnecting the steering column. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 ken is right. 2 to 3 inches is all you need. the down pipe is what gets in the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted May 18, 2010 Report Share Posted May 18, 2010 Yeah you guys are right, come to think of it when I did this i had my DP unbolted from the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTP091 Posted May 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 No luck yet the JY is still out of LQ1's this is the first time I can remember there hasn't been a single one there. If i had a cavalier, sunbird, old lumina, or dodge carvan I'd have lots of pickins. maybe next week or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted May 21, 2010 Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 IIRC 94-96 B4U GPs came with them too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted May 21, 2010 Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 Chris is right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted May 21, 2010 Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 IIRC 94-96 B4U GPs came with them too. And Regals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted May 21, 2010 Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 What's the stock sway bar size on a 89 TGP? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted May 21, 2010 Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 30mm solid. the 34mm bar is hollow making it stronger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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