Regal_GS_1989 Posted March 4, 2010 Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 Alright...I'm going to be installing an Infinity Basslink sub in the Regal for a little extra bump. I Plan on mounting it on a slab of wood which will be covered in carpet, and it will also have velcro on the bottom to keep it from moving. I also want to make it extremely easy to remove for when I need the extra trunk space. To make it easy to remove, i was thinking about using some type of quick connect system that would make it simple to disconnect, and also something where I won't need to worry about shoring out the wiring in the trunk. The Speaker level inputs are already quick connects, so that leaves me with the power, ground and remote leads. Then it struck me.....What is cheap, easy to use and has 3 prongs? Electrical plugs! I figure use the female end on the car, so that I can just unplug it and not worry about anything shorting out, and use the male end and keep it attached to the sub to easily connect and disconnect. The sub only has a 200 watt amp, and is only supposed to consume a max of 13 amps....normal house current is 15 amps, so the plugs shouldn't have a problem taking the power. And obviously, i'd make sure to use a heavy duty plug that fits tight to ensure good contact. Stupid...Or Genius? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted March 4, 2010 Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 sounds ghetto fabulous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted March 4, 2010 Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 sounds ghetto fabulous true. probably work nicely though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regal_GS_1989 Posted March 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 sounds ghetto fabulous Yea, I thought about that too....Although it would be something that is mounted out of site, behind the carpeting, so when it is hooked up, you wouldn't see the plug. When its disconnected...once again, behind the carpet so it will be totally concealed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IRONDOG442 Posted March 4, 2010 Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 Rather than tapping into his ignition switch to run a remote wire for his amp a friend of my installed a 115 volt light swtich to turn his amp on and off and mounted an escuteon plate in his trunk, it was fucking amazing!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted March 4, 2010 Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 http://www.ningbo-electric.com/images/power%20pole%20battery%20connectors/APP%20Multi-pole%20Power%20Battery%20Connectors.jpg I've seen it done, and have always wanted to do it myself for a quick removal type of system (say if a customer needed the trunk space to haul stuff). I'd be sure to pull the inline fuse in the power feed before disconnecting the plug though. Otherwise, I could see you getting a nice little spark, and a popped fuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted March 4, 2010 Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 I say do it! Awesome idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regal_GS_1989 Posted March 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 http://www.ningbo-electric.com/images/power%20pole%20battery%20connectors/APP%20Multi-pole%20Power%20Battery%20Connectors.jpg I've seen it done, and have always wanted to do it myself for a quick removal type of system (say if a customer needed the trunk space to haul stuff). I'd be sure to pull the inline fuse in the power feed before disconnecting the plug though. Otherwise, I could see you getting a nice little spark, and a popped fuse. I'll have to check around the next time i'm at Princess auto. Im thinking i've seen connectors there just like that before. It won't be removed all that often from the trunk...but for the times it will come out, I want to be able to do it in a matter of seconds, without the use of tools, or without any wiring being in the way either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscar_wilde Posted March 4, 2010 Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 I say that is genius. I wouldn't use wall plugs or anything like that because it is horrible ghetto. I would find a suitable quick disconnect plug set from an electronics store. I would probably put a fuse on the board/woofer end as well as one coming from from the power source. In case the quick disconnect gets crushed by overzealous groceries. You sir, have inspired me. When I get a decent stereo, I am going to be doing this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regal_GS_1989 Posted March 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 I say that is genius. I wouldn't use wall plugs or anything like that because it is horrible ghetto. I would find a suitable quick disconnect plug set from an electronics store. I would probably put a fuse on the board/woofer end as well as one coming from from the power source. In case the quick disconnect gets crushed by overzealous groceries. You sir, have inspired me. When I get a decent stereo, I am going to be doing this. See...that is why I was looking to use heavy duty electrical plugs. They are cheap, damn near indestructible, and well, they'd be hidden anyways...so no one would see, or know about the ghettoness but me Another setup I was looking at would be using a 4 pole Speakon connector. They are used in Pro audio situations for connections between amps and speakers. They are a twist and lock design, so once they are connected...they are not coming apart. They are also rather heavy duty as well. Probably more so then the electrical plug would be. I will have to get some prices on those, and if they are not rediculous, I may go that route instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regal_GS_1989 Posted March 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 Option number 1 is the one I plan on going with. I will construct a platform to mount the sub to, which will be covered in carpet to match the trunk lining, as well, will have velco on the bottom to prevent it from sliding around. I will then install some type of quick disconnect system for Power, remote and ground wiring, so that removing the sub is as simple as folding down the back seat, unplug the connector, and pull the whole unit out of the trunk. Disconnected and out in under a minute. Simple, yet effective. I did a test fit last night and that sub is a perfect match for what I wanted. Not window rattling bass...but rather adds a nice punch to the factory system. Other then the occasional license plate rattle, you would have no idea there was even a sub playing when you're outside the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted March 5, 2010 Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 12V @ 15A does not equal 110V at 15A. You need something that can handle heavier gauge wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted March 5, 2010 Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 12V @ 15A does not equal 110V at 15A. You need something that can handle heavier gauge wire. i figure they're 18(maybe 20?) guage wires to hold 15A safely. 12V/15A=180Watts 110V/15A=1650Watts but watts isn't what melts wires, amps are. and voltages will determine how close the wires can be before they will start arcing... or at least this is what i've found to be true in my experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted March 5, 2010 Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 with a cheap little sub like that, why not use a home ac plug? I would probably use a dryer plug if it were me. much more contact surface and and bigger gauge wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrcuttymann Posted March 5, 2010 Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 This chart is a simple "max capacity" chart for a short wire run. Increase the wire size for long runs - for example the wires running to the back of a vehicle to power the taillights may need to be one size larger to account for the length. Gauge 110V 12V 22 5A 5A 20 7.5A 8A 18 10A 10A 16 13A 20A 14 17A 40A 12 23A 60A 10 33A 100A 8 46A 150A 6 60A ??A 4 80A ??A 2 100A ??A 1 125A ??A 0 150A ??A Chart Notes The 12V column is based on various sources I have found across the Internet combined with the accepted usage in various vehicles I have worked on. I am generally a bit skeptical of the max capacity the sources I found claimed for some of the smaller wire sizes. For example, 16 gauge wire is mighty thin to run 20A through for even a short distance, and this chart is a conservative interpretation of the data I found out there. Some data had the max capacity even higher than this - yikes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTP091 Posted March 5, 2010 Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 Option number 1 is the one I plan on going with. I will construct a platform to mount the sub to, which will be covered in carpet to match the trunk lining, as well, will have velco on the bottom to prevent it from sliding around. I will then install some type of quick disconnect system for Power, remote and ground wiring, so that removing the sub is as simple as folding down the back seat, unplug the connector, and pull the whole unit out of the trunk. Disconnected and out in under a minute. Simple, yet effective. I did a test fit last night and that sub is a perfect match for what I wanted. Not window rattling bass...but rather adds a nice punch to the factory system. Other then the occasional license plate rattle, you would have no idea there was even a sub playing when you're outside the car. I would suggest some type of clip/quick release system to hold it down for bumps and the occasional hard cornering so it doesn't tip over and pull on the wiring. Velcro will only work if grandma is driving. Also RCA's aren't designed to be plugged and unplugged you may notice them getting loose over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supersniperkilla Posted March 6, 2010 Report Share Posted March 6, 2010 i say its a great idea....but i would personally not do it that way. i would find some other sort of quick disconnect. i agree that no one would see it but its just a thing i have with doing ghetto things(when it comes to cars anyways), i would know it was there and would feel bad lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted March 6, 2010 Report Share Posted March 6, 2010 I'd do it haha. It's only a power wire, etc...not like you're running your speaker wires or anything important through it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted March 6, 2010 Report Share Posted March 6, 2010 Bungee cord! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted March 6, 2010 Report Share Posted March 6, 2010 yeah and lots of bubble gum and twist ties. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted to eaton Posted March 7, 2010 Report Share Posted March 7, 2010 i Would say use a Computer Power cord! It Cut the end off that goes into the wall. Take an old junk power supply take the plugs from it and Wala! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regal_GS_1989 Posted March 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 Well...I have everything run and hooked up in the car right now, but the sub is just sitting there, not attached to anything, and it didn't move during any acceleration or corning, so once it's mounted to the board, it should be more then adequate. The velcro is just to keep it from sliding back and fouth. It is going to be sitting against the driver side wheel well, and the sub will be mounted more to one side of the board, so i'd basically have to roll the car to get it to tip over. I already have the plugs...So i think I'm just going to try it. Worst case scenario is that I find i don't like it and I have to do something else. I always have a need for plugs like that anyways...so nothing lost there. As for RCA's getting loose after time...i'm well aware of that. Luckily for me...It has speaker level inputs which connect with some molex type of plug, so that shouldn't be an issue. I'll post of some pics of everything once it's finished. So far though...I'm pretty happy with it. It adds a real nice clean punch to the factory system without being boomy and it seems to make the rest of the system sound much better and cleaner too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted March 9, 2010 Report Share Posted March 9, 2010 Where do you buy that? I've been contemplating something like that for my TSX for quite some time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regal_GS_1989 Posted March 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2010 Where do you buy that? I've been contemplating something like that for my TSX for quite some time. I bought this one off of a guy on Kijiji. From what I have seen online, these ones were discontinued, but they have another Model that might still be in production. It is an Infinity Basslink. It's got a 10inch active driver, and a 10inch passive radiator with a built in, 200 Watt amp. It definitely hits pretty good conisdering it's size. You won't win any competitions with it or anything, but it adds some much needed depth to the sound, without rendering your trunk useless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted March 20, 2010 Report Share Posted March 20, 2010 Maybe use a heavy duty 4 pin flat trailer connector, female end on the car with a cap or cover on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.