KingVee Posted February 22, 2010 Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 Since no one ever answers to me anywhere, I'm just going to create a whole new thread about it. I will be performing those two gaskets jobs and I would like some answers to a few questions. For one, as far as the LIMGs are concerned, should I either go with the Fel-Pro PermaDry ones (I assume the PermaDry's are the metal ones they offer), or the GM aluminum ones? More importantly, what do I need that is missing in the parts listed below? FELPRO PERMADRY lower intake manifold gaskets (parts # ?????)DORMAN upper intake manifoldInjector O-rings FELPRO PERMADRY valve cover gaskets (parts # ?????) On a picture that Big Al showed to me, I saw some orange RTV. I do have a tube of this that I used on my Beretta, but where exactly would I need to apply this? Also, what is this I read about some breakable coolant elbow in the lower manifold? I'm totally clueless about this. Thank you for taking time to answer me, I need this help badly. HELP A FUCKIN' NOOB ALREADY! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted February 22, 2010 Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 Hi, Funny thing! I am doing the samething! And I have all your answers. #1. Get the Aluminum LIM Gaskets. #2. I got new injector O-Rings with my Recall down to car. If you didnt, get them #3. Goto ZZP and get it all. If I could get it all for my car, I would. But the dealer is getting everything tomorrow. #4. You dont need RTV gasket seal. You can use it if you want. I have a pic from Turbo Sedan on a 3.1 as reference. #5. Yes, The coolant elbows break. Order them from ZZP too! Everyone says they break theres. I broke some T vac line yesterday. I had a pic of it, but now I cant find it. If I do, I will link it. Found it! http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1647235 This is my order from ZZP. I am ordering 2 of everything for my brothers 01 Regal GS too. Intake gasket Model:Aluminum $54.99 $109.98 Coolant elbows Model:Upper and Lower $9.99 $19.98 Supercharger gaskets Model:Garlock L67 Option 1:none selected $11.99 $23.98 Lower intake O-rings (these are strickly for my L67 UIM) VIN : $4.99 $9.98 Sub Total: $163.92 Goto ZZP's site and check it all out. Just realized your in Canada too. Might want to get everything in town. I emailed ZZP asking how much shipping and boarder fee's will be, but never got an answer yet. Another link. http://www.3800pro.com/forum/general-tech/18460-coolant-leak.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingVee Posted February 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 Anyone else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Anyone else? Really, what more do you need? I'm actually almost pissed enough to delete my whole post. If you need part numbers, just tell them what car and engine you have and they should be able to look it up. Thats all I did when I went to Parts Source to get my valve cover gaskets. I have the box in my shed if you REALLY must know the part number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingVee Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Anyone else? Really, what more do you need? I'm actually almost pissed enough to delete my whole post. If you need part numbers, just tell them what car and engine you have and they should be able to look it up. Thats all I did when I went to Parts Source to get my valve cover gaskets. I have the box in my shed if you REALLY must know the part number. Wasn't intended to offend you at all man, I just thought the information I needed wasn't there or too vague. About the coolant elbow, I did hear they break, no need to point it back out to me. But I just don't even know what it is and what it looks like - fuck all about it. Furthermore, I cannot order shit from the internet, so ZZP is out of business for me at this moment. I'm ordering everything locally. What I do want to know is do I need anything else beside what I listed? And indeed I need parts numbers because auto shops around here are mind-bogging retarded. I remember once trying to get a price for my Beretta's coolant temperature sending unit and everybody would show me a coolant temperature SENSOR and tell me that in their 20-years of working in this business they never saw a sending unit (or a sensor according to them) with a wire built-in to it. WHAT... THE... FUCK?! Sorry if you got offended, but I AM a total fucking noob. Nobody seems to comprehend they need to bare with me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 you want us to hold your hand? use the search function, this has been covered ad nauseum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingVee Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 you want us to hold your hand? use the search function, this has been covered ad nauseum. As a matter of fact, I do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 FWIW, you can get those coolant elbows MUCH cheaper than what ZZP wants. You can get them at the HELP! section of most auto parts stores for $5. For the gaskets, just go to an auto parts store and ask for the gaskets. It really can't be any simpler, no matter how retarded your parts store jockeys are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Sigh. We are here to help, but we can't do everything! Yes, get the fel-pro perma-dry gaskets. Once you start ordering things, you will figure things out. And once the time comes to actually DO THE JOB, I can help you through it. Just don't expect anyone here to do everything for you..... You can give a man a fish and feed him for a day.... or teach him to fish and feed him for a lifetime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Sigh. We are here to help, but we can't do everything! Yes, get the fel-pro perma-dry gaskets. Once you start ordering things, you will figure things out. And once the time comes to actually DO THE JOB, I can help you through it. Just don't expect anyone here to do everything for you..... You can give a man a fish and feed him for a day.... or teach him to fish and feed him for a lifetime x2 Its one thing to be a noob and another thing to ask to be spoon fed all of the answers. Many here have done this with little to no experience and finished the job just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingVee Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Can anyone show me how the fuck does these coolant elbows look like? PLEASE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 ITS PLASTIC, IT'S AN ELBOW, AND HAS A DIAMETER OF ABOUT 3/4 INCHES, CARRIES COOLANT, AND IF STRAIGHTENED OUT, WOULD BE ABOUT 4 INCHES LONG. JESUS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingVee Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 ITS PLASTIC, IT'S AN ELBOW, AND HAS A DIAMETER OF ABOUT 3/4 INCHES, CARRIES COOLANT, AND IF STRAIGHTENED OUT, WOULD BE ABOUT 4 INCHES LONG. JESUS! That just cheered me up highly :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Can anyone show me how the fuck does these coolant elbows look like? PLEASE! Hold on buddy. Advance auto sells those both in a cardboard backed plastic container in the help section for $5. On my fiance's sister's 96 L36 I used the second (larger) one. I tossed the first one in the trash last week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingVee Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Thank you. With that said and the slight angered feeling at myself, I'll just get a fuckin' Haynes manual tomorrow and read that. If any shit, I'll just ask my mechanic to take a look... I just want this done because it's bogging my mind really bad... I'm kinda paranoid about it and I just don't want to fuck it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Thank you. With that said and the slight angered feeling at myself, I'll just get a fuckin' Haynes manual tomorrow and read that. If any shit, I'll just ask my mechanic to take a look... I just want this done because it's bogging my mind really bad... I'm kinda paranoid about it and I just don't want to fuck it up. I won't show you pictures of the gaskets like a 5 year old, but I will tell you this: 1. Get ziploc bags and a sharpie. Put all hardware (sensors, bolts, etc.) in there and label the bag. Then close it and toss it in a cardboard box. Make sure its closed before tossing it though. 2. You will need an oil change afterward, so plan for that. 3. You will need to top off coolant, so plan for that. 4. There's a small cap on the driver's side of the LIM. Do not remove that. You will have a LOT of fun finding a replacement gasket. It never leaks, so don't fuck with it. 5. There are a few bolts in the LIM that may likely be covered by oil. 6. When lifting the LIM, try not to tilt it. It will be full of coolant and you want to spill as little as possible into the crankcase. 7. You'll need a torque wrench. The haynes manual (which you should have anyway) will have the torque specs. You do not need new LIM or UIM bolts. Do not over tighten the LIM gasket. 8. If you haven't yet replaced the UIM for the stovepipe defect, you will want to replace that EGR stovepipe with the revised design. I'm assuming you know about this problem. If you don't, please ask. 9. You'll need something to scape off random debris from the surface of the heads. Let me know if you have any other questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Here's are some FSM scans for UIM + LIM replacement. If for some reason the images are out of order, save them and look at the file names(image1 through image12). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingVee Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 1. Get ziploc bags and a sharpie. Put all hardware (sensors, bolts, etc.) in there and label the bag. Then close it and toss it in a cardboard box. Make sure its closed before tossing it though. 2. You will need an oil change afterward, so plan for that. 3. You will need to top off coolant, so plan for that. 4. There's a small cap on the driver's side of the LIM. Do not remove that. You will have a LOT of fun finding a replacement gasket. It never leaks, so don't fuck with it. 5. There are a few bolts in the LIM that may likely be covered by oil. 6. When lifting the LIM, try not to tilt it. It will be full of coolant and you want to spill as little as possible into the crankcase. 7. You'll need a torque wrench. The haynes manual (which you should have anyway) will have the torque specs. You do not need new LIM or UIM bolts. Do not over tighten the LIM gasket. 8. If you haven't yet replaced the UIM for the stovepipe defect, you will want to replace that EGR stovepipe with the revised design. I'm assuming you know about this problem. If you don't, please ask. 9. You'll need something to scape off random debris from the surface of the heads. Let me know if you have any other questions. 1. I saw that idea on some of Buck's pictures, I thought it was pretty clever! 2. Complete oil change yes. 3. Complete flush of the system is in order, personally. I also want to clean the overflow bottle (not sure how to do that, but I'll figure something out). 4. Noted. 5. In which case that would mean... They're just hidden and that's why "I can't pull the damn thing off!!!"? 6. Noted. 7. Ugh... 8. The UIM will be replaced at the same time with a Dorman unit. 9. Razor blade scraper worked SOMEWHAT fine on the Crapalier, could be a better tool out there... Here's are some FSM scans for UIM + LIM replacement. If for some reason the images are out of order, save them and look at the file names(image1 through image12). HOLY COW! That's nice! Thanks man! I'm gonna get this stuff printed pronto! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 One of the nicest tools I have for cleaning the aluminum mating surfaces is a grill brush. My wife found it in the kitchen. I'm not talking about one of those flat ones, this one is meant for cleaning the cooking surface of a grill. It has a nice handle, two brass cleaning brushes...the bristles are LOOPED, so you're cleaning using the sides of the looped brass, rather than abrading the surface of the aluminum. Since the bristles are looped, they don't seem to fall out of the brush, and into the engine. The stick they're mounted to is twisted wire, so it's almost impossible to press too hard. The final results are fantastic. They'll cut right through the ridged crud, and the mating surfaces will look like new, once you wipe them down with a rag and throttle body cleaner...no scratches, either. I did both heads on my '95 LQ1 in less than 20 minutes. Of course, now I have to find a new one to put back in the kitchen...for some reason, my wife wasn't interested in having it returned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingVee Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 One of the nicest tools I have for cleaning the aluminum mating surfaces is a grill brush. My wife found it in the kitchen. I'm not talking about one of those flat ones, this one is meant for cleaning the cooking surface of a grill. It has a nice handle, two brass cleaning brushes...the bristles are LOOPED, so you're cleaning using the sides of the looped brass, rather than abrading the surface of the aluminum. Since the bristles are looped, they don't seem to fall out of the brush, and into the engine. The stick they're mounted to is twisted wire, so it's almost impossible to press too hard. The final results are fantastic. They'll cut right through the ridged crud, and the mating surfaces will look like new, once you wipe them down with a rag and throttle body cleaner...no scratches, either. I did both heads on my '95 LQ1 in less than 20 minutes. Of course, now I have to find a new one to put back in the kitchen...for some reason, my wife wasn't interested in having it returned. Seriously? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingVee Posted February 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2010 I've just read somewhere that the DORMAN UIM kits come with injector o-rings. Is that true? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted February 24, 2010 Report Share Posted February 24, 2010 I've just read somewhere that the DORMAN UIM kits come with injector o-rings. Is that true? Yes, they're included. "This kit contains several parts such as injector O-rings (6 upper and 6 lower), PCV valve O-ring, PCV valve spring, vacuum fitting O-ring, and upgraded coolant passage seals. New injector upper and lower O-rings are also included in the kit. " Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingVee Posted February 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2010 I've just read somewhere that the DORMAN UIM kits come with injector o-rings. Is that true? Yes, they're included. "This kit contains several parts such as injector O-rings (6 upper and 6 lower), PCV valve O-ring, PCV valve spring, vacuum fitting O-ring, and upgraded coolant passage seals. New injector upper and lower O-rings are also included in the kit. " I have no clue or what is the rest, but good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingVee Posted March 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2010 I can't sleep because I've been thinking about the list of things I need. Here's what I have so far. I feel there might be a few things missing and I'm hoping some of you could help me if so - and THANK YOU for doing so! PARTS FEL-PRO PERMADRY lower intake manifold gaskets FEL-PRO PERMADRY valve cover gaskets DORMAN upper intake manifold (includes a bunch of stuff; injector o-rings, PCV o-ring, PCV valve spring, vacuum o-ring, coolant passage seals) Coolant elbows PRODUCTS, COMPOUNDS, FLUIDS Permatex ULTRA BLACK Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker Threadlocker??? Which one??? (which bolts do I need to lock too? LOL) Prestone Super Cleaner Prestone Dex-Cool Mobil Oil & Filter Lots of distilled water TOOLS Ratchet & Sockets Torque Wrench Something to clean mating surfaces (should I use a cleaning agent on there as well?) Lots of rags Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted March 1, 2010 Report Share Posted March 1, 2010 Plastic bags and a Sharpie. Beer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.