xtremerevolution Posted December 14, 2009 Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 I didn't see a thread in the FAQ section, even though this problem seems to deserve its own FAQ. Is anyone planning on writing one up any time soon? My passenger side door doesn't open anymore and I'd like to fix it in case I ever have issues opening the driver side door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spilly Posted December 14, 2009 Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 My passenger side doesn't open either, well, it does from the inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted December 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 My passenger side doesn't open either, well, it does from the inside. Likewise. I haven't yet dug into the car since its 20 degrees out, so I'd like a good idea where to start so I spend as little time in the cold as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 Personally, I prefer leaving the windows down, and entering the car a' la' Dukes of Hazzard. My chiropractor loves it. On a more serious note, I'd love to see such a writeup myself. The driver's side handle on my '95 convertible is getting flaky...it already leans outward about a half inch at the top... I didn't see a thread in the FAQ section, even though this problem seems to deserve its own FAQ. Is anyone planning on writing one up any time soon? My passenger side door doesn't open anymore and I'd like to fix it in case I ever have issues opening the driver side door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscar_wilde Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 Are we talking about first generation coupe handles? If someone can take pictures for me, I would be willing to create a write-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted December 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 Are we talking about first generation coupe handles? If someone can take pictures for me, I would be willing to create a write-up. Yep, 1st gen coupe writeups. I wish I could take a picture. If I had the time, I'd be fixing my transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 there is no real reason for a write-up though. you just take the two weird looking 10mm nuts off and remove the clip, turn a couple threads, and put the nuts back on. oh, there is a phillips screw or two. so you need a phillips screwdriver and a pliers. thats all I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 there is no real reason for a write-up though. you just take the two weird looking 10mm nuts off and remove the clip, turn a couple threads, and put the nuts back on. oh, there is a phillips screw or two. so you need a phillips screwdriver and a pliers. thats all I think. Yup. Although there is a Torx that holds the lock cylinder in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscar_wilde Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 Don't forget spinning the adjusting screw to adjust it. I am sure information on how to remove the body screws would be helpful, I broke many before I learned. I am going to try and write this before my exam later today. On my quest for some pictures I could use as reference, I remembered this very site has a pretty good guide on them already. http://www.w-body.com/service/exterior-doorhandle.html /endthread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted December 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 Don't forget spinning the adjusting screw to adjust it. I am sure information on how to remove the body screws would be helpful, I broke many before I learned. I am going to try and write this before my exam later today. On my quest for some pictures I could use as reference, I remembered this very site has a pretty good guide on them already. http://www.w-body.com/service/exterior-doorhandle.html /endthread Unlike what is described in the post, my door handle is not broken and does not flop around. It probably just needs adjustment, as I can keep yanking on it for a minute or so and it will eventually open the door if I pull hard enough...that is...if its not freezing cold outside. The problem is, I don't want to pull hard enough to break the door handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 i've written how to do this many times. maybe I will do the write-up later. when pigs fly... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscar_wilde Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 Take off the bottom panel that is basically directly under the door handle on the inside. You can pop off the linkage, which will be a tapered rod. You rotate the holding nut thingy and pop it back on the handle. Trial and error for best results, hopefully your rod isn't bent. I think my rod was bent a little and made adjusting futile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PanamaZ34 Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 How about this question then ........... how do you get round using replacement (Sherman) handles/panels that don't have threaded bolts? My original passenger side handle/panel was totally wrecked after the previous owner suffered an attempted break-in (and the driver's side was missing entirely). When I removed the passenger side panel, it was held on by a couple of domed nuts that threaded onto the bolts welded onto the panel. The Sherman replacements just have plain rods that locate (approximately) through the holes in the door frame. Am I missing something, or do I have to come up with some sort of botch (plenty or silicon sealant to try to keep them in place and then drill the rods and fit cotter-pins or something similar)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted December 18, 2009 Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 the nuts CUT into the rods to make the threads.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted December 24, 2009 Report Share Posted December 24, 2009 I just did this on my '95 convertible...now, the dome lights tend to stay on. What did I screw up? All I did was turn the threaded rod a couple of turns... Take off the bottom panel that is basically directly under the door handle on the inside. You can pop off the linkage, which will be a tapered rod. You rotate the holding nut thingy and pop it back on the handle. Trial and error for best results, hopefully your rod isn't bent. I think my rod was bent a little and made adjusting futile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscar_wilde Posted December 24, 2009 Report Share Posted December 24, 2009 How about this question then ........... how do you get round using replacement (Sherman) handles/panels that don't have threaded bolts? My original passenger side handle/panel was totally wrecked after the previous owner suffered an attempted break-in (and the driver's side was missing entirely). When I removed the passenger side panel, it was held on by a couple of domed nuts that threaded onto the bolts welded onto the panel. The Sherman replacements just have plain rods that locate (approximately) through the holes in the door frame. Am I missing something, or do I have to come up with some sort of botch (plenty or silicon sealant to try to keep them in place and then drill the rods and fit cotter-pins or something similar)? the nuts CUT into the rods to make the threads.... Truth. They come plain rods. You have to like torque them to create threads on the posts. It doesn't take a whole lot of effort. I just did this on my '95 convertible...now, the dome lights tend to stay on. What did I screw up? All I did was turn the threaded rod a couple of turns... Make sure your door sensor didn't get touched or stuck. Also, make sure the door is actually closing. Make sure the little bar where the door rests is not stuck closed or in the stop. (The post that the door comes to rest on). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 took these pics in some awesome and snowing 18*F weather... this is what we start with after removing the 2 nuts holding the splash shield, or what ever it's called, on. as you can see, i've adjust this before and am doing it again for the purposes of this write-up. what we will be dealing with is the little barrel on the end of the threaded rod. as seen, it will not move with the retainer under it holding it there... so we take a flat-bladed screw driver, and push from the inside outwards. it will fall off after about 3/8" of travel... and you end up with that. pick up the retainer, put it on the seat and then rotate the barrel in the direction you need it to... bottoming it out on the threads as shown here will cause the handle to travle a long ways before it start to actuate the hardware that actually opens the door... adjusting the barrel all the way to the top makes the handle open VERY quickly after starting to pull on the handle. the rods seem to have an issue with compressing that forces you to keep adjusting every once in a while, and once you get to the end of the threads, you either need to replace the rods or stretch them out. this write-up will not involve that since i've never had to do it myself. refer to Crazy K for more info. now, it may take a few rounds of adjusting to get it perfect, but when you do find a good place for it, you need to insert the stud of the barrel into the end of the retainer that is just flat metal, not the side that is folded over. then place the stud through the hole of the "golden" part of the hardware. then work the retainer onto the golden part by twisting it up and down while pulling outwards so that the entore retainer can slip over the part. when it can, push it inwards and then it will pop into place. you MAY need to work the handle during this time for some extra room to move around if your fingers won't fit. replace the splash shield if desired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 I've stretched every rod I've touched. consider this: something that has started to bend will only continue to bend and get worse; the more bent it is the more propensity it has to bend even more. to stretch the rod back out, you need to remove the door panel and locate the area on the lock mechanism where the rod attaches. Most cars have a rod clip you spin and the rod pops out. some are harder, as you cannot remove the rod clip without removing the door guts. *see below* once you do have the rod out, you will see it is not a straight rod, but has two or three bends in it. unbend each bend just a bit and fit it back into the door and see how much more unbending is required. your goal: 1 get the attachment nut within one turn of the bottom of the thread where it meets the handle at it's at rest position, and 2 have the rod not bind on anything in the door. Once the rod is in position and you attach it back to the handle, you will be tempted to hook the handle up so that the handle has some preload on the rod. Having TOO MUCH preload CAN jamb the door rendering it unopenable. some preload is ok. important: *DO NOT SHUT DOOR UNTIL PROCEDURE IS COMPLETE* how to check adjustment: Once the handle is attached, manually close the latch (the part that grips the door jamb peg) by moving it into the close position by hand *DO NOT SHUT DOOR*. test both the interior handle and exterior handle several times(like 5 times each), manually closing the latch each time the door handle releases it. If it works 100%, then repeat the same test, but this time lock and unlock the door each time while in the shut position. If it jambs, you must unhook the handle from the top of the rod. HELL... you basically need to test the door latch function by every possible compination of locking latching and releasing.... FOLLOW THE PROCEDURE AS FOLLOWS: so again: (manually close latch between every repetition!!! *DO NOT CLOSE DOOR*) 5x releasing inner handle to open door latch. 5x releasing outer handle to open door latch. 5x MANUALLY locking, then manually unlocking the door and releasing inner handle to open door latch 5x MANUALLY locking, then manually unlocking the door and releasing outer handle to open door latch 5x POWER locking, then power unlocking the door and releasing inner handle to open door latch 5x POWER locking, then power unlocking the door and releasing outer handle to open door latch 5x use key cylinder to lock, then use key cylinder to unlock, then releasing inner handle to open door latch 5x use key cylinder to lock, then use key cylinder to unlock, then releasing outer handle to open door latch 5x manually locking, TRY OPENING INNER HANDLE, manually unlock the door, unlatch by inner handle 5x manually locking, TRY OPENING OUTER HANDLE, manually unlock the door, unlatch by outer handle 5x power locking, TRY OPENING INNER HANDLE, power unlock the door, unlatch by inner handle 5x power locking, TRY OPENING OUTER HANDLE, power unlock the door, unlatch by outer handle 5x use key cylinder to lock, TRY OPENING INNER HANDLE, use key cylinder to unlock the door, unlatch by inner handle 5x use key cylinder to lock, TRY OPENING OUTER HANDLE, use key cylinder to unlock the door, unlatch by outer handle so... if it passes all testing.... close her up, you are done! ADD AN EMERGENCY RELEASE: I have mentioned that I have one mod I also do to every door I service. I tie a thin nylon rope to the mechanism to the point where the lower end of the rod meets the latch. this rope then goes out the bottom of the door through a weep hole, and I trim and knot the bottom to be just short of touching the ground. once tested, i tuck this string into the rubber striping on the bottom of the door. It is out of site and out of mind, but can be pulled out if you ever have another door handle failure, though this either means you need to dig it out with a paperclip, or open the opposite door... and this rope CAN serve long term in the event of a door handle failure... **if you have a "unremoveable rod clip" (mainly but not necessarily 1994 models) You can either try to stretch the rod in the door, or physically drill out all the rivets that hold the door guts to the door, and reinstall the guts when complete using 1/4" (or 7mm) bolts with nylocking nuts (Lowes has those parts) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 ^Absolutely friggin right here!! Make for sure that it doesn't have preload. When you close the door and this happens, you will get "girlfriend opening door when you are unlocking" syndrome. (Think about for a sec, you'll get it.) In all seriousness, it's what Crazy K has mentioned that the door latch binds because of too much preload on the handle adjustment. On a side note, awesome tip about the emergency release. Please take some pics and write-up that part because I would like to/ plan on doing this to '92 Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted January 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 ^Absolutely friggin right here!! Make for sure that it doesn't have preload. When you close the door and this happens, you will get "girlfriend opening door when you are unlocking" syndrome. (Think about for a sec, you'll get it.) In all seriousness, it's what Crazy K has mentioned that the door latch binds because of too much preload on the handle adjustment. On a side note, awesome tip about the emergency release. Please take some pics and write-up that part because I would like to/ plan on doing this to '92 Z x2. I would love to see pictures of what Ken is talking about. Its hardly something that I can picture in my head without seeing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 soon, my pretties. but for now.... let me say it this way: there is an arm that is moved by the end of the rod at the base of the door. I tie the rope with a lasso over that and pull till tight and run it out the door bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 soon, my pretties. but for now.... let me say it this way: there is an arm that is moved by the end of the rod at the base of the door. I tie the rope with a lasso over that and pull till tight and run it out the door bottom. patiently awaiting...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 13, 2010 Report Share Posted January 13, 2010 I SUGGEST A TITLE EDIT. GEN 1 Coupe Door Handles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted to eaton Posted January 30, 2010 Report Share Posted January 30, 2010 stickie this now mods! or. take roberts post and made a gen 1 how to topic! PLEASE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted January 30, 2010 Report Share Posted January 30, 2010 When you gonna show us your sweet e-release Crazy K?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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