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Also, that "stuff" that I touched with my finger had the consistency of vaseline. It wasn't gritty and it didn't smell.

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I usually buy that prestone powerflush stuff and run that through. I usually run that through then water until that shit comes out clean. Might take a few times haha. Fuck taking it in.

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i have messed with at least 4 cars that had catastophic cooling system failures when the coolant had signs of such neglect. basically, once flushed, the system blows out every weak spot it can find...... several in a row.

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Yeah I can use the hose at my buddies place, however its a 15 minute drive to get there if it makes any difference. You think I should just flush it with plain water?

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Yeah I can use the hose at my buddies place, however its a 15 minute drive to get there if it makes any difference. You think I should just flush it with plain water?

 

yes, for a start.

 

I would not drive the car 15 minutes once you start the process. if there is a weak enough spot in the system, the only thing holding the car together is sludge. flush the system, remove the sludge and things will go BOOM.

 

I have done a system flush using a a bunch of gallon jugs, just pouring one in after another. You should do this method and run the car with the upper radiator house loose from teh radiator and peeing on the ground. ***add water only while the car is running once hot*** you might make it easier by pulling the t-stat, btw.

 

one you have cleaned out the system this way, it is time for disassembly. pull the radiator hoses and remove the radiator (pull the fans, the tranny lines, and the coolant sensor wire hiding on the passenger side, then the dogbones and the top bracket holding the rad in place)

 

inspect radiator for swollen plastic and rust (especially near the seams with the sides) if bad replace.

if good, flush with water. (in the shower or with a hose or whatever.... :lol: ) and then lay flat and fill with a CLR or vinegar soultion, and allow to sit for a few days. reinspect for leaks.

 

inspect the radiator hoses. if the insides are rotted, replace.

 

remove the serp belt. spin the waterpump. bad coolant ruins the bearings. if it feels rough, replace.

 

next leak area are any of the 3/4 coolant lines. the ones for the throttle body bypass are easily missed, and I have had those burst.

 

and don't forget the metal line on the passenger side of the engine bay....

 

once you think all is good, put everything back together. use a 195 proper T-stat, (unless you have the PCM tuned for a 180) and then use prestone flush.

 

 

 

 

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See, the thing I'm afraid of is this- I have reason to believe this car has a crack in the rear cylinder head right over cylinder #1. All cylinders have 180 PSI compression.. the #1 cylinder has 80 PSI. The car doesn't seem to be losing any coolant (water) though.. It doesn't smoke and the engine oil stays full and clean as the day I put it in nearly 2 months and 1,600 miles ago.

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i think i already told you but at the pick n pull in chandler there is a car just like yours with 100k miles on it i bet you can get a good cylinder head off of it the engine appeared to be all there

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At this point, I'd just like to replace the entire engine. It would be less expensive, since I wouldn't have to replace the gaskets.

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There is a TGP in a jy in Socal, I'm waiting to hear how much they want for the entire powertrain.. We'll see what happens. Otherwise, I'll probably just throw in a low mileage 3.1 if I can find one for a reasonable price.

 

Jake, if you go back there, would you mind asking how much they would want for that 3.1?

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sure i will ask when i go back in a couple weeks if it is still there. otherwise im sure you could just call them and ask. there number is

480-961-1112.

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