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Addicted To Boost
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I would still flush it and try the CLR stuff for the hell of it. See what happens, hoses are cheap, I say flush it and see what it does. If it is ok it's ok, if not your out $30 or less (CLR, antifreeze, possible hoses).

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I'm not worried about hoses. The thing I am worried about is if I remove the sludge, the engine will possibly die completely. I think the sludge is sealing off the cracked rear head right now.. I just need it to last a bit longer until I can afford to throw in a new engine.

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If you plan on replacing the engine in the near future, I'd just let it go.

 

....then sell the short block to me and drop it off on your way back home sometime....LOL

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i dont mean to sound like an asshole but.............

 

 

iron block + water as coolant = Rust issues????????????

:bonk:

that is very apparent to me.

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Thats true...

 

My first suggestion is to take the radiator out, and send it to a radiator shop, and get it boiled out. Or go to a junkyard and get a used/new one. Then take out your thermostat (it will need to be replaced at the end of this), and flush that bad boy engine out. You will have to take off the smaller hoses near on the passenger side, and back flush the system, and then find the other hose, and flush it again.

 

Or you could see about finding a replacement motor, and swap her in. Or take out your current engine, send it out to be dipped, and honed. rebuild the heads, and put her back together.

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I'm just going to drive it as-is until I can put in a new engine. This engine has high miles already, and who knows what else is wrong with it. I'm just going to start with a clean slate and swap out the engine with a lower mileage one.

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I'm just going to drive it as-is until I can put in a new engine. This engine has high miles already, and who knows what else is wrong with it. I'm just going to start with a clean slate and swap out the engine with a lower mileage one.

don't do that.

 

you will be replacing everything including the heater core if you do. at least do what I suggest. I think it is unlikely that you actually will have leaking through the cylinder head.

 

Have you looked at the plug for #1? is it visibly burning coolant? have you re-checked compression? I've seen compression change drastically with a little use. maybe you should replace the valvesprings and pushrods on number 1. one of my cars had this issue and it was mostly solved by that.

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No, I only checked the compression while it was sitting in the guy's yard.. and it had been sitting there for 2 years. I haven't checked the plug, no. The day I got the car, I pulled the Bosch plugs out and replaced them with AC Delcos. I haven't touched them since. The car isn't visibly burning coolant, however, the exhaust tips have a kinda whitish residue on them.

Pics of the exhaust:

IMG_1531.jpg

IMG_1559.jpg

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do a compression re-check!!!

 

when a car sits for more than a few days, the valve springs that are open will collapse their respective lifters, resulting in FALSE readings.

 

also examine the plugs. look for any that have odd deposits and which cylinders they came from.

 

 

 

report results when complete.

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Wow I've never seen a thread go so quick in a few days.

 

Like everyone else said, flush the system and/or overhaul it then replace the engine.

 

3.1 engine swaps are super easy.

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UPDATE!

 

I just did a compression test and cylinder #1 is now at 180 PSI like all the rest of the cylinders. The plug is still very clean, I replaced the plugs with the standard AC Delcos ~1,800 miles ago.

 

So... I'm very relieved to see that my engine is going strong and has good compression. Now I'll see about flushing my cooling system this weekend.

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Thanks man. :cool:

 

Hey Ken, do you think it would be alright if I flushed my cooling system out with plain water, then put in some of the Prestone Flush fluid to remove the nasty slime to clean out my system, or is there another way you'd recommend? I'd like to try the fluid to de-slime my entire cooling system.

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