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Moving battery to back, thanks everyone, especially gp1138-think problem solved


dohc v6
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there is a wiring calculator I have at home on my laptop. But it says that with 2 ga wire, running 15 ft, at 150 amps, is wayyyy to small, it says that u should run a MIN of (0) wire. I am also going to replce my battery with a bigget one as well.

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According to my math, based on 12 volt flat, that should give you about a .70 volt increase at the wire end. Even thou its a small amount, about 8%, that could make all the diference in to you computer for ease of starting.

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More than 12v, more like 12.7 but yeah. I was seeing around 12.4-5 at the aux post with the 2ga wire, Then I put the battery ruight on the aux post and it started. I started it 5 times throught out the day and it started right up evrey time, right away.

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To me, it sounds like your ground is your biggest problem. Especially since you said you didn't remove the paint underneath your connection. I bet if you upgrade your ground wire and make sure you get a good connection you will have a lot less problems. I really don't think you need a ground wire running the whole way from the trunk to the block, though. This is what worked for me. I welded a small plate to stick out slightly over the spare tire well and then bolted the tie down and the ground to that bare plate.

 

RearBattery-Small.JPG

 

Of course upgrading all your wiring wouldn't hurt but I'd try the ground before taking the time and money of running all that extra cabling.

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I also dont think he needs a 1 or 2 guage ground wire. But I always add in a small ground wire, going from the battery, to a piggy back bolt on the motor. Since the engine compartment is technically isolated from the body of the car (thru cradle dampers, spring insulators, etc), you are relying on a engine ground to body strap for a good ground. And frankly, it just isnt enuf in my book. I know on some cars, not sure on w-bodys, that the ground strap is a exposed peice of braided wire, which are known to fail due to corrosion and flexing.

 

EDIT: Rereading over the whole 3 pages, a couple things come to mind. You say you have a 2 guage wire running everything, which in my opinion, for a positive, is fine. On your ground wire, if you use a 2 guage ground wire, running from the battery, to the frame in the trunk area, and another 2 guage wire running from the frame to the engine block, with the paint stripped on both ends, bolted down, and then a 6 guage wire running from the battery directly to the engine block, I think your problem will be solved.

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Just to make sure I solve this problem this is what I am doing. I am going to run a 2/0 wire from the battery to the AUX post. Then a 2/0 ground wire from the battery to the block. I dont think I will need another wire from the battery to the trunk. This will just keep my trunk clean looking. The BIGGEST problem is the ground not going to the block.

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yeap, that will suit your needs greatly, with a little bit of overkill. But Im not saying anything bad about that, better to much, than not enuf when it comes to things like this.

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haha, after all that work it still dont worky. The first time I started it with the new wire, it started perfect. After I got to work and had to leave for lunch, it did the same thing as before, it cranked for 5-7 seconds. I am so tired of this fucking problem. Why would it start fine the first time I started it up?

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How long was it parked before you went to lunch? Try running a ground directly from the battery to bare trunk metal and see if that helps. The length of your new ground might be causing it to be no better than your original strut top ground. I forget exactly what causes it to not start once its been driven for a little bit but i think its a common thing when people first move their batteries. Your car will probably do the same exact thing each day when you drive it the way it is now (start fine at first but harder once driven). I'll try to get a better explanation tonight after work.

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i could not fit the ground through the firewall, so i ran the ground from the battery to the trunk/body. And ran a ground 00, from the block or tranny, to the crossmember. Should I run a wire from the battery to the block to see what happens, I was planning on doing this, but the other wire was tooo large. Why would this matter? Why would it work from dead cold?

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Well, because the engine is technically isolated from the body of the car, and the wiring is part of that. The engine cradle has the cradle bushings that isolate it, the struts have the upper strut jounce bumper, the motor mounts are insolated with rubber, technically speaking the engine is isloated from the rest of the car. Thats why I was suggesting the 6guage wire from the battery to the engine block itself (preferably where the ground strap bolt is on the tranny side).

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Ok, I just ran a ground from the battery to the cam position sensor, which is ON the cam carrier, no go. I am going to disconnect the battery and see if when I plug it back in, if it start right up. Would a ignition switch do anything?

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I've had issues starting up my '93 Lumina Z34. Try this, it works for me. Christines always been a bitch to start but I've done this to help out and it works great. Next time you want to start your car, turn the key to the on position, listen for the fuel pump, it'll whine and then stop. Turn the key on the off position and pull out of the ignition. Wait 5 seconds and repeat about 6 times. Then go ahead a start her up. I know Christine does this because I'm starting to have issues of her not starting when I please. I can't even use my remote start much because she won't start unless the fuel pump is primed. Good Luck.

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I got to think about this a bit further. Something is going on, and I just cant place my finger on it right now...

 

Does it do this hard starting regardless of the temp of the motor, or the temp outside? Or does it start better when the engine is cold or????

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