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Dark Ride

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About Dark Ride

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  • Birthday 04/09/1988

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  1. Dark Ride

    Mitch R's TGP Restoration Thread Updated 9-18-18

    Yeah, its pretty easy to do when there is nothing in it I took it for a drive around the block, it suddenly wants to eat tires, not sure what caused It's definitely fast, and there is very little boost lag, which was what I was going for. A car that builds boost like a blower but without all the parasitic loss.
  2. Dark Ride

    Mitch R's TGP Restoration Thread Updated 9-18-18

    Thanks! Yeah, the downpipe was almost completely custom. The CT kits have 2 bolt exhaust flanges between the upper and lower downpipe. I had to use vband as the flange wouldn't fit between the rear exhaust manifold and the firewall, it's a really tight fit. The gen 2 engine bays these were made for are at least a couple inches wider. The vband requires a good deal of finesse to get it locked in place. If anyone ever does this I would absolutely recommend using the vband flanges with the machined male/female design, they were a life saver. I'm not a body guy unfortunately, so I'll end up having someone fix the rust and paint it.
  3. Dark Ride

    Mitch R's TGP Restoration Thread Updated 9-18-18

    Thanks, I'm really looking forward to it being done. Rust behind the doors in front of the rear wheels... Does anyone have any experience with rust repair here, is this something they can cut out and weld in a new piece of metal. It doesn't have to be pretty since I'll cover it up with the ground effects anyway.
  4. Dark Ride

    L82 upgrade options

    If you are thinking an engine swap in the future I would build a nice mandrel bend exhaust as suggested either 2.5 or 3 inch depending on long term plans
  5. Dark Ride

    Non-grid tails on a B4U Grand Prix?

    I can't say I remember anyone doing it but I doubt it would look bad. My LE had those and I always liked them.
  6. Dark Ride

    Mitch R's TGP Restoration Thread Updated 9-18-18

    New lower downpipe: Upper downpipe installed with heat shields to protect master cylinder and the plastic valve cover (aluminum ones are also in order here) Turbo installed, I coated the exhaust and center housing with high temp paint to hopefully prevent rust. We'll see if it holds: Charge pipes, air filter and oil lines installed. Need one more t-bolt clamp. All back together, just need to install that one t-bolt clamp and bleed the brakes. Intercooler install will be coming this winter hopefully, I'll install the BOV at the same time. I need to move the car and would also like to get the rust work done soon as well. I'm not going to be driving it hard until the Intercooler and BOV is done.
  7. Dark Ride

    Mitch R's TGP Restoration Thread Updated 9-18-18

    Yeah, I've seen some where it backfired into the manifold and boom. Definitely, going to an aluminum one sooner rather than latter. I actually made some decent progress over the weekend I've got to get posted up. It's running again.
  8. Dark Ride

    Mitch R's TGP Restoration Thread Updated 9-18-18

    They aren't ideal. They can explode if you push too much boost through them. Most guys seem to be able to run 15 psi before it really becomes a concern. For now I'm leaving the stock wastegate spring in which limits boost to 9 psi. The trans is still stock and they can't take much more than that either without upgrading. My long term plan is once I get it completely put back together, painted, and driven a bit, I'll pull the motor and trans, upgrade the trans with a new input shaft and chain, and put a turbo cam in the engine. While I have it apart I'll install the newer aluminum uim. Then I'll crank the boost higher.
  9. Dark Ride

    Mitch R's TGP Restoration Thread Updated 9-18-18

    Wow. I've been working off and on on car this car since then, but I have to say it was really cool reading this thread and seeing my own progress and remembering how far it's come. I've been starting to burn out on this again as sometimes it just seems like the car itself is against me, everything lately has been 2 steps forward 1 step back. I thought I would post an update after all this time and keep this updated again as I'm definitely closer than I have ever been with this. So let's see: I got the new pump put in. Got the windshield replaced. Relocated the battery to the trunk. Got it drive-able. Installed a new Pioneer deck with my amp and 6x9s from my original Grand Prix. This car is also partially a tribute car to my first car which was also a 90 Grand Prix although it was just a base LE. Then it sat for a while. About two years ago I bought a used Cartuning turbo kit from Bake82 and have been slowly installing the kit into my car. I got all the oil lines installed as well as the wastegate perch & wastegate. I also installed a front plog and an HV3 insert as well as L67 injectors. After that is when the trouble started. I knew that it wouldn't be bolt on given the differences between 1st and 2nd gen but it was quite an undertaking. The kit came with a Garret T04B turbo with an on-center housing. The turbo itself needed a rebuild and I decided I wanted to upgrade to the PT61 turbo. Unfortunately, that turbo is no longer available as it seems Precision no longer makes an on-center housing(at least for that application). I ultimately decided to use the Precision 6262 which actually worked better with its tangential housing. The biggest issue I had was getting around the master cylinder as the original kit had the downpipe going right through it. The 6262 helped in this regard as it dropped the turbo outlet down. I ended up modifying the crossover and bit and used only a small section of the CT downpipe, adding mandrel bends to create a custom downpipe which ended up looking like this: I also replaced the brake booster with one from a 02 Monte Carlo. I also got my wideband installed. Interior is still in pieces, hoping to at least get the dash put back together very soon: Here is the motor currently, I actually had it assembled and running but had to take it back apart as the downpipe wasn't sealing properly on the turbo. Picture of the turbo just cuz I don't think anyone gets sick of looking at them So my next steps are getting the downpipe fixed, and getting this put back together again so i can at least move it. Then I'm going to see about getting some of the bodywork done, there is some decent rust in front of the rear wheels that I think may need to be cut out and replaced.
  10. Dark Ride

    OBD-1- 33 Code: Map Sensor or Higher Circuit

    If you've confirmed the wiring and connector look good and all the vacuum lines are good I would try that next.
  11. Dark Ride

    OBD-1- 33 Code: Map Sensor or Higher Circuit

    Did you replace the map sensor?
  12. Dark Ride

    OBD-1- 33 Code: Map Sensor or Higher Circuit

    You could check the wiring by the connector, I had that happen on my Lumina. Caused it to act like a bad map.
  13. Dark Ride

    I own a 90 TGP....again

    I would love to see a write up on this, it's an interesting concept I had never considered.
  14. Yes, that is the setup I'm planning to use. What's interesting is that except for a small difference in the metal insert on the end of the pushrod, I didn't see any real difference. I should've grabbed a picture.
  15. So I wanted to add some final notes to this thread. I finally got back to this and the new 02 Monte Carlo Brake Booster is installed. One other issue I ran into was when I went to put the master cylinder in place. The 90 GP master cylinder is recessed into the brake booster farther than the 2nd gen master cylinder is. This is the part I'm talking about. The length it goes into the brake booster is longer. So what was happening was that when I tightened the bolts holding the master cylinder to the booster, the push rod was making contact with the cylinder and engaging the brakes. When I took the master cylinder back off, it was pretty obvious what the problem was and at first I was unsure how to fix it. I pulled the pushrod out and compared them. Then I noticed a flat plastic washer/spacer on the end of the pushrod. I removed that and reinserted the rest of the pushrod, but still had a little bit of engagement. I ended up putting two very small washers on the bolts between the master cylinder and booster and that solved my problem. Now it's worth noting that this probably would not be an issue with a 2nd gen Master cylinder, but it was with mine. I haven't driven it yet and won't be able to for a while, but hopefully it ends up being worth it.