1995 Lumina 3100 LIM replacement

[LumiDriver]

Hey all, as you have read in previous posts, my coolant is disappearing into my exhaust, the engine is overheating, and there is a new WP, Thermostat and no puddles under the car. It died today, multiple times. I wasn't able to get very far. It would start extremely harsh, and it was bad. My girlfriend was there too, she knows nothing about cars, and she thought it sounded bad.

 

SO, after a lot of googling and reading here on the forums, I think I've narrowed it down to the LIM. Which is a pain from what I've heard, but cheaper than anything else serious. I was browsing on autozone to find the price of these gaskets, and I think I found the, but I need to know for sure.

 

LIM Gasket

 

If those are the right ones, awesome! Anyway, I was looking for a complete and thorough walkthrough for replacing these. I'm very insecure about doing things without good instructions, but I can't afford for someone else to do it. Please help me, this is the last resort, because I plan on selling the car if the gaskets fix it, and getting a 1998 Dodge that has full backing of my parents if it breaks. Thanks!

 

My email address is vipersfate@comcast.net if you have something to add! Thanks so much in advance!

[chadz34]

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to

Caution: Unless directed otherwise, the ignition and start switch must be in the OFF or LOCK position, and all electrical loads must be OFF before servicing any electrical component. Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent an electrical spark should a tool or equipment come in contact with an exposed electrical terminal. Failure to follow these precautions may result in personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components.

 

in General Information.

Drain the coolant. Refer to Cooling and Radiator.

Remove the coolant recovery reservoir. Refer to Cooling and Radiator.

Remove the accessory drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement .

Remove the upper intake manifold. Refer to Upper Intake Manifold Replacement .

Remove the fuel feed and return pipe from the manifold. Refer to Engine Controls.

Remove the fuel injector rail. Refer to Engine Controls.

Remove the power steering pump pulley. Refer to Power Steering Gear and Pump.

Remove the power steering pump bolts. Move the power steering pump aside. Refer to Power Steering Gear and Pump.

 

 

 

Disconnect the heater inlet pipe from the manifold.

Disconnect the upper radiator hose at the engine. Refer to Cooling and Radiator.

Disconnect the straps from the heater outlet pipe and ignition wiring harness.

Disconnect the heater pipe from the heater core to coolant pump. Refer to Cooling and Radiator.

Remove the valve rocker arm cover. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement .

 

 

 

Remove the bolts.

Remove the lower intake manifold.

 

 

 

Remove the gasket.

Clean the gasket and seal surfaces on the manifold with degreaser.

Remove all the loose RTV sealer.

Installation Procedure

 

 

 

 

Apply 8-12 mm (0.08-0.11 inch) bead of RTV Sealer, GM P/N 12345739 or equivalent, on each ridge where front and rear of the manifold contact the engine block.

 

 

 

Install the lower intake manifold gaskets.

Install the lower intake manifold.

Apply sealant, GM P/N 12345382 to the threads of the bolts.

Notice: An oil leak may result if the vertical bolts are not tightened before the diagonal bolts.

 

Hand tighten the vertical bolts.

Hand tighten the diagonal bolts.

 

Tighten

 

Tighten the vertical bolts to 13 N·m (115 lb in).

Tighten the diagonal bolts to 13 N·m (115 lb in).

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

 

Install the valve rocker arm cover. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement .

Connect the heater pipe from heater core to coolant pump. Refer to Cooling and Radiator.

Connect the tie straps around the heater outlet pipe and ignition wiring harness. Refer to Cooling and Radiator.

Connect the upper radiator hose at the engine. Refer to Cooling and Radiator.

 

 

 

Connect the heater inlet pipe to the manifold.

Position the power steering pump. Refer to Power Steering Gear and Pump.

Install the power steering pump bolts. Refer to Power Steering Gear and Pump.

Install the power steering pump pulley. Refer to Power Steering Gear and Pump.

Install the fuel injector rail. Refer to Engine Controls.

Connect the fuel feed and return pipe to the manifold. Refer to Engine Controls.

Install the upper intake manifold. Refer to Upper Intake Manifold Replacement .

Install the accessory drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement .

Install the coolant recovery reservoir. Refer to Cooling and Radiator.

Refill the coolant recovery reservoir with engine coolant. Add two engine coolant sealant pellets, GM P/N 3634621, or equivalent.

Bleed the engine cooling system. Refer to Cooling and Radiator.

 

That should about cover it.

[chadz34]

This way is much easier.....

Remove the fuel injector rail bolts.

Remove the fuel injector rail assembly.

 

 

 

Remove the heater inlet pipe assembly.

 

 

 

Remove the retaining bolts.

Remove the lower intake manifold.

 

 

 

Remove the lower intake manifold gaskets.

[GutlessSupreme]

I haven't read your previous posts, but...

 

have you checked your oil to make sure it's not frothy milk?

 

You say coolant is dissapearing into the exhaust.. I guess that could be the LIM, but it sounds more like head gaskets to me.

[LumiDriver]

It is frothy milk .

 

I was reading that walkthrough, and a few of those things I do not know what some of these things are.

 

Remove the upper intake manifold. Refer to Upper Intake Manifold Replacement .

How would I got about doing this part?

 

Remove the fuel feed and return pipe from the manifold. Refer to Engine Controls.

What are those?

 

Remove the fuel injector rail. Refer to Engine Controls.

How do I do this? (Sorry, I've never done that before)

 

Remove the power steering pump pulley. Refer to Power Steering Gear and Pump.

Remove the power steering pump bolts. Move the power steering pump aside. Refer to Power Steering Gear and Pump.

I haven't done that either

 

Disconnect the heater inlet pipe from the manifold.

Where is that?

 

Disconnect the straps from the heater outlet pipe and ignition wiring harness.

What are the straps?

 

Remove the valve rocker arm cover. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement .

How is that done?

 

Remove the bolts.

What bolts? lol

 

If I can get those answered, I think the reverse will be easy. Thanks!

 

[chadz34]

The upper intake manifold is the ''plenum'' you should be able to remove it by removing the six bolts on it. You will need to remove the throttle and kickdown cables. The fuel feed line goes into the injector rail, it should be easy to remove. I think you can skip the steps for removal of P/S components. The gasket you are trying to repair is under the fuel rail....which is another six bolts...you WILL need to drain some of the engine coolant (plug on bottom of rad) and that will avoid coolant spillage. The injector rail comes out and the gasket is underneath it. Makes sure you Clean the surface in whichjh the new gasket is to be applied. HJope that helps.

[BXX]

It is frothy milk .

 

I was reading that walkthrough, and a few of those things I do not know what some of these things are.

 

Remove the upper intake manifold. Refer to Upper Intake Manifold Replacement .

How would I got about doing this part?

 

Remove the fuel feed and return pipe from the manifold. Refer to Engine Controls.

What are those?

 

Remove the fuel injector rail. Refer to Engine Controls.

How do I do this? (Sorry, I've never done that before)

 

Remove the power steering pump pulley. Refer to Power Steering Gear and Pump.

Remove the power steering pump bolts. Move the power steering pump aside. Refer to Power Steering Gear and Pump.

I haven't done that either

 

Disconnect the heater inlet pipe from the manifold.

Where is that?

 

Disconnect the straps from the heater outlet pipe and ignition wiring harness.

What are the straps?

 

Remove the valve rocker arm cover. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement .

How is that done?

 

Remove the bolts.

What bolts? lol

 

If I can get those answered, I think the reverse will be easy. Thanks!

 

 

Step slowly away from the car and tow to a shop... Seriously, all those should be common sense for a person that has sufficient mechanical aptitude to do such a job.

 

How is it done, look!!! If it won't come right off, then remove whatever is keeping it on

[RangeStang]

 

 

 

 

How is it done, look!!! If it won't come right off, then remove whatever is keeping it on

 

That is how I started out doing things.

[LumiDriver]

It's not that I don't know what I'm doing, I just want to make sure that I can do this well. I hate doing half assed jobs.

 

So it does sound like an LIM problem? My boss is saying that it could be a head gasket.

[19Cutlass94]

The hardest part about doing LIM gaskets is torquing the bolts correctly.. and if you know how to do that, its an easy job.. just takes a while.

 

Why dont you just go the headgaskets while you already there? I mean 16bolts you need to take out, clean up the block and heads, then torque down 16bolts.. its not that much more work. If you cant figure out what one it is, just do all of it.

[R Dubya]

if you aren't 100% positive that the head gaskets are not blown, or one cylinders crush ring hasn't failed, then you will be doing yourself a grave injustice if you don't at least do a compression test to diagnose. Even if you have even compressions it doesn't mean the gaskets are still good.

 

The only 100% way to know is to remove the heads and see with your own eyes. Besides, in all it will only cost about $250 more including parts and planing of the heads to ensure flatness.

 

And that's if you decide to do the valve seals, which isn't entirely necessary.

 

I recently did a 97 3400 (same design) and the compression revealed nothing, cylinder one's crush ring was separated and I would have had to do it twice had I not had the notion to just do it anyway. You are that far, just do it right, that way you don't want to hang yourself when its still burning coolant.

 

 

[LumiDriver]

The problem on that is (I would do it too) is that I don't have that money.

I have 0 dollars to my name, and at the end of the day I'll have 64 dollars.

[R Dubya]

well its going to cost more than $64 for the gaskets, oil, coolant, silicone sealant, bandaids and neosporin, pb blaster, etc etc.

 

I'd put a large bad of doritos against your headgaskets being bad.

 

if you don't do it the first time theres a good chance you will do it all over again, plus extra for the head set and everything else.

 

all in all I would expect to spend at least 12 hours leaning over that car if you've never done it before. But hey man, to each his own, good luck, and we'll all be here to help you out if you need it.

[LumiDriver]

I've done this before, but not on a 60*V6 before.

 

My parents aren't even caring that this is happening, and they don't even want to help me. It fucking sucks.

 

[chadz34]

I've done this before, but not on a 60*V6 before.

 

My parents aren't even caring that this is happening, and they don't even want to help me. It fucking sucks.

 

Man, it had been said earlier, it's all of 16 bolts dude. The fuel injector rail has to come off thats it, it's a PITA, but I wouldnt pay anyone to do that...just be happy you don't have a DOHC. I leanred most of what I knowonce I bought a Lumina. If you are questioning those basic instructions, even the paragraph I wrote myself haha....buy a BMX bike or something with the 60 bucks

[LumiDriver]

Wow, why are you guys being such asses to me? Fuck, I just want to make sure I'm doing it right. And all you have to say is some kind of insult about this? Whatever.

 

[chadz34]

Wow, why are you guys being such asses to me? Fuck, I just want to make sure I'm doing it right. And all you have to say is some kind of insult about this? Whatever.

 

I'm sorry man, you can do it, it really isnt that hard. It's only 16 bolts or so. I can even give you the torque specs....do you have a torque wrench?

[LumiDriver]

Yeah, it's just pretty hard because of th emoney problems right now.

[19Cutlass94]

Then save your money and fix it when you can afford to. Park the car right now and use something else. if you dont youll have bigger problems that will cost more than the $120ish fpr all the gaskets you need.

[LumiDriver]

Normally, that would be fine. I don't have anything else. Normally I would have my mom's Eclipse, but the suburban's rear end died, so my step dad needs the car.

 

I just got off the phone with my mom, and she is thinking about letting me pay her back for the gaskets and items that I need. I told her that I need head gaskets too.

[LumiDriver]

Ok, so 2 head gaskets, LIM gaskets, Coolant, silicone, intake plenum?

 

what else will I need?

[BXX]

Ok, so 2 head gaskets, LIM gaskets, Coolant, silicone, intake plenum?

 

what else will I need?

 

You will need a complete headgasket set and head bolts. coolant, oil and filters for 2 changes, silicone, torque wrench, probibly some engine flush, a new thermostat, a bunch of brake parts cleaner to clean all the gunk off the parts, a good tool set, breaker bar, and of course a good machine shop to check out the heads. I think that's about it... Hell, I've changed LIM/Head gaskets soooooo many times on 3100s

 

Oh, and a good prey that your bottom end hasn't been washed by the coolant... Sometimes you get lucky and they are perfect, other times, they can be wiped in a few seconds...

 

You do have a second option however, getting a junkyard engine. Most of them have already prollly had all this work done already and can be had very cheap.

[LumiDriver]

Headgasket set? The 180$ ones? Why new bolts?

 

[Regal_GS_1989]

Headgasket set? The 180$ ones? Why new bolts?

 

The Bolts are torque to yield. Meaning that they stretch once they are torqued down. Personally i wouldn't trust re-using head bolts. (At least on these engines) And if the car has been run long enough with coolant in the oil, then i'd be a little worried about spending the time and money on replacing parts and then wiping out the bottom end because the coolant made it into the bearings.

 

[LumiDriver]

When I pull the dipstick, it doesn't have coolant smell or look to it. It's on the oil cap that I see the foamy.

 

good point about the bolts. Thanks for letting me know that.