CutSupreme93 Posted November 6, 2007 Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 for the past two days when i went to start my car in the morning the check gauges light comes on n the battery gauge is low after about 10 mins of driving it turns off n everything is normal, but after sittin for about 2 hours when i go back to start it the same things happens again, wut could be the problem? i was thinkin the battery isnt holding the charge it is suppost to, my brother accidentally killed the battery a couple months ago because the door didnt close all the way when he shut it. its a 3.4 DOHC by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted November 6, 2007 Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 yeah, it sounds like your battery might be on the way out. I'd replace it now before you kill your alternator, too, because that is either very expensive, or a pain in the neck to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted November 6, 2007 Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 Does your battery light come on??? If so, then that would be the altenator... A bad battery won't cause a light to come on, and the voltage gauge should still read normal once the vehicle is running. Just starting it could be a pain and voltage can drop some under high loads... Not to mentiona bad battery will kill an altenator pretty quick and and bad altenator will kill a battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted November 6, 2007 Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 Not to mentiona bad battery will kill an altenator pretty quick and and bad altenator will kill a battery. QFT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CutSupreme93 Posted November 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 it was really cold last night, when i started it dis morning no check gauges light but i think that is due to the rpm's being high becasue of the engin being cold after it warms up n the rpm's go back down the light comes on. thx for your help! also when i turn the key to the accessories the battery gauge reads low, so does that mean its the battery for sure then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted November 6, 2007 Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 When its warm and the idle kicks down, the light comes on... Then the altenator is getting weak and should be replaced, or the serp belt is slipping ever so slightly, or a vacuum leak is causing the idle to be a little too low, where the altenators kicks off... yes, an altenator does have an on-off RPM... Ignore the gauge when you just turn the key to the on position, as it can be a bit fooling and inaccurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CutSupreme93 Posted November 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 ok thx is there a way to tighten the belt to see if that is the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 ok thx is there a way to tighten the belt to see if that is the problem? It has an automatic tensioner.... so no. If the tensioner is bad, then that can cause a little too much slack and cause the issue. But it also tends to make itself real evident by the belt squealing, especially when cold... Check your belt, if it looks bad or you haven't changed it in a while, then that is a good thing to change... You should also change the tensioner ANY time you change the belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boulevard Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 Check your belt, if it looks bad or you haven't changed it in a while, then that is a good thing to change... You should also change the tensioner ANY time you change the belt. That seems to be a bit excessive, to change the tensioner every time you change your belt. I don't think that's nessacary at all. They hardly ever fail. I wouldn't think that it would be a common thing for it to just fail. If it's strong when pulled back I'd think you'd be ok. I've had plenty of cars and I've never heard of that being done. I not expensive to fix or hard to do but I think it's not nessacary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 Check your belt, if it looks bad or you haven't changed it in a while, then that is a good thing to change... You should also change the tensioner ANY time you change the belt. That seems to be a bit excessive, to change the tensioner every time you change your belt. I don't think that's nessacary at all. They hardly ever fail. I wouldn't think that it would be a common thing for it to just fail. If it's strong when pulled back I'd think you'd be ok. I've had plenty of cars and I've never heard of that being done. I not expensive to fix or hard to do but I think it's not nessacary. Bullshit ... 75% of cars on the roads today with automatic tensioners are bad... Just because they move doens't mean they are good... Over time the loose proper tension and dampening qualities... A belt can last about 30-50K and should be changed along with the tensioner... Seriously, sit and think how much abuse a belt and tensioner takes in 30-50K. Ever notice how the tensioner at idle moves a lot to compensate for torquing forces on the belt... Not image it at higher rpms from drivering and over time... It's just a cheap steel spring inside and does most definately loose tension over time. And don't let the newer belts used on GM's and other vehicles that claim they are designed to last the lifetime of the vehicle... More often, the lifetime of the standard warrenty... appx. 30K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boulevard Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 Check your belt, if it looks bad or you haven't changed it in a while, then that is a good thing to change... You should also change the tensioner ANY time you change the belt. That seems to be a bit excessive, to change the tensioner every time you change your belt. I don't think that's nessacary at all. They hardly ever fail. I wouldn't think that it would be a common thing for it to just fail. If it's strong when pulled back I'd think you'd be ok. I've had plenty of cars and I've never heard of that being done. I not expensive to fix or hard to do but I think it's not nessacary. Bullshit ... 75% of cars on the roads today with automatic tensioners are bad... Just because they move doens't mean they are good... Over time the loose proper tension and dampening qualities... A belt can last about 30-50K and should be changed along with the tensioner... First time I've ever heard that. I'm sure 75% of cars on the road have other parts wore down too. I don't believe you have too just because it maybe worn. Every part on a car is worn. Do you replace all parts after a few years of wear? Just seems excessive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 Check your belt, if it looks bad or you haven't changed it in a while, then that is a good thing to change... You should also change the tensioner ANY time you change the belt. That seems to be a bit excessive, to change the tensioner every time you change your belt. I don't think that's nessacary at all. They hardly ever fail. I wouldn't think that it would be a common thing for it to just fail. If it's strong when pulled back I'd think you'd be ok. I've had plenty of cars and I've never heard of that being done. I not expensive to fix or hard to do but I think it's not nessacary. Bullshit ... 75% of cars on the roads today with automatic tensioners are bad... Just because they move doens't mean they are good... Over time the loose proper tension and dampening qualities... A belt can last about 30-50K and should be changed along with the tensioner... First time I've ever heard that. I'm sure 75% of cars on the road have other parts wore down too. I don't believe you have too just because it maybe worn. Every part on a car is worn. Do you replace all parts after a few years of wear? Just seems excessive. Fine, ignore a tensioner that is worn and it will disassemble itself at the worst time possible... And yes, people need to stop being so damn ignorant and replace worn parts before the completely fail.... Then again I think on the safe and practicle side and like my profile says, i'm an ASE Certified Parts Specialst, so I guess I am more anal. Worn is a term for a part that is past it's lifespan and needs to be replaced before it causes catastrophic failure and can potential cause another system to fail or experience problems... This is not the same as an old part. Old parts are not always worn. There is a huge difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 only one I ever had to do was the Jimmy, but that's because the pulley itself froze up. I need to to the TGP though, because it moves a bit much IMO, although it probably doesn't need to be done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 only one I ever had to do was the Jimmy, but that's because the pulley itself froze up. I need to to the TGP though, because it moves a bit much IMO, although it probably doesn't need to be done you will think otherwise when it seizes up on a road trip in the middle of nowhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boulevard Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 only one I ever had to do was the Jimmy, but that's because the pulley itself froze up. I need to to the TGP though, because it moves a bit much IMO, although it probably doesn't need to be done you will think otherwise when it seizes up on a road trip in the middle of nowhere Ok, it's not a horrible idea to do it. It can't hurt that's for sure. I don't think many people have spare change to get that done every time just for a belt swap. What if the belt was just bad from the manuf? Would you again change the tensioner? I wouldn't and I don't think 99% of people would. And when the fuck would I (or anyone else for that matter) be in the middle of nowhere, I live in chicago. Beside, I would never drive my car any where that's too far from home incase anything does happean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 only one I ever had to do was the Jimmy, but that's because the pulley itself froze up. I need to to the TGP though, because it moves a bit much IMO, although it probably doesn't need to be done you will think otherwise when it seizes up on a road trip in the middle of nowhere Ok, it's not a horrible idea to do it. It can't hurt that's for sure. I don't think many people have spare change to get that done every time just for a belt swap. What if the belt was just bad from the manuf? Would you again change the tensioner? I wouldn't and I don't think 99% of people would. And when the fuck would I (or anyone else for that matter) be in the middle of nowhere, I live in chicago. Beside, I would never drive my car any where that's too far from home incase anything does happean. I live in Ohio, more specifically in Brunswick... Like most people in the NE Ohio, we do a shitload of driving... And I am on I-71 where if I got stranded, I could be walking for 10 miles to get somewhere near people... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 only one I ever had to do was the Jimmy, but that's because the pulley itself froze up. I need to to the TGP though, because it moves a bit much IMO, although it probably doesn't need to be done you will think otherwise when it seizes up on a road trip in the middle of nowhere ummm, that's why i said I was gonna do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 only one I ever had to do was the Jimmy, but that's because the pulley itself froze up. I need to to the TGP though, because it moves a bit much IMO, although it probably doesn't need to be done you will think otherwise when it seizes up on a road trip in the middle of nowhere ummm, that's why i said I was gonna do it I know, I am just making a statement for people who say they need to do it, but never will til they end up stranded... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCRagtopguy Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 Instead of all this guessing, why not actually check the alternator with a voltmeter. And the battery also. Read the voltage on the battery when it is cold before you even start it. Then after you start it check the voltage going into the battery. On my Olds, when started the voltage is over 14v going into the battery. If you can open the cells on the battery you can also check the strength of the electrolyte with a specific gravity tester available cheap at any Pep Boys, Auto Zone, etc. Changing the belt is a good idea also, but this is the first time I ever heard somebody say to change the tensioner also whenever you change the belt. I've only ever had one tensioner go out on me and that was on a 87 Cavalier Z-24 with the 2.8 engine. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CutSupreme93 Posted November 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 thx i appreciate all the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CutSupreme93 Posted November 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2007 could the problem also be due to a low idle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted November 8, 2007 Report Share Posted November 8, 2007 could the problem also be dur to a low idle? and probably not, unless its idling so low that its not spinning fast enough, which I don't know is possible, unless like mentioned before the belt is slipping Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwmin Posted November 8, 2007 Report Share Posted November 8, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted November 9, 2007 Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 could the problem also be due to a low idle? Yes it can, I think the on-off limit for the CS130 altenators is either 550 or 600 RPM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boulevard Posted November 9, 2007 Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 Wha...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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