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front calipers???-- UPDATED


birdman
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well ive replaced the master cyl, rear calipers,pads and rotors, and front pads and rotors and it still stops not so good. i do however now have good pressure to all calipers and it does stop better going in reverse and slightly better going forward. before i had just a dribble from all wheels when i blead them. now my question is, can front calipers work but suck ass or do they either have to work or not at all? thanks.

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they can work poorly. Have you checked them to ensure that the dust boots are intact?

 

You might do this..... pop off each wheel, pop the caliper loose, take off the inner pad(only), stick the caliper in place without the pad, slightly screwing in the retention bolts, and apply the pedal once or twice. Inspect, making sure both pistons move. Then force both pistons back into the bore and reinstall the inner pad and remount the caliper, put wheel back on and do the other side.

 

Once completed, pump the pedal like mad until the brakes are firm. Failing to do so will give you a runaway vehicle!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Since there are two pistons per caliper they should move about equally when you pressed the brake. IMO

 

Doing this piston check at least ensures that they are not binding up. If you find a torn dust boot you should have them both replaced. My warning... If you replace only one side you may get uneven braking.

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well i know when i did the front pads and rotors the dust boots were ok but ill try the little test anyway. all thats really left is them and the booster but i really dont think it the booster. thanks

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My calipers were destroyed, I had squishy pedal, and horrid stopping, i would almost have to have the pedal to the floor just to stop, new calipers rotors, and pads, and it stops wonderful and has a nice firm pedal

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booster..... wel..... actually I replaced the check-valve on an old car I had as it was responsible for low assist conditions. Do you loose assist quickly as soon as the car is shut off?

 

Try spraying a little tire shine type stuff through your check valve (removed from bnooter and hose)and see if a difference is noticed.

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My calipers were destroyed, I had squishy pedal, and horrid stopping, i would almost have to have the pedal to the floor just to stop, new calipers rotors, and pads, and it stops wonderful and has a nice firm pedal

thats just how mine feels, and as far as the check valve, i didnt think of that. ill give that a try tomarrow. thanks everyone, ill let ya know what happens.

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well i went abd got new calipers on thursday and decided to paint them to keep them from rustin and it makes them look 100% better, and thats about all it did, there was NO difference in stopping whatsoever, i was kinda pissed but at the same time that narrowed it down a little more. what should i do next???

 

and heres some pics of the calipers

 

old-

DSC00043.jpg

DSC00044.jpg

 

new and painted-

DSC00045.jpg

DSC00046.jpg

DSC00047.jpg

DSC00048.jpg

DSC00048.jpg

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Nice but paint the brackets too... 8)

 

and be careful brake fluid eats paint like mad.....so be careful bleeding them.. :D

i was going to paint the brackets but it was getting dark and i want them to be black or silver. thanks tho.

 

and no, i didnt get the valve, the parts store didnt have one but im still looking for one, the weired thing is that i get good pressure to the front brakes when i bleed them, it shoots up aginst the wheel well and gets everywhere, do you think bad pads or rotors could cause a problem, they are new but ive heard of them being bad anyway?? any ideas, thanks.

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Our '90 Cutlass had spongy brakes that did not work well until the rear pads were broken in...make sure you set and release your parking brake often also. The car stops great for having the old style brakes on it now

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Guest TurboSedan

sounds like you have air in the system. i would bleed the brakes again - sometimes you have to bleed them quite a few times to get all the air out.

 

how did you bleed the brakes?

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one person inside me at the caliper, pump and hold, open the bleeder and shut it, let off the pedal and pump and hold again, i did it in the right order too, do you think that there might be an air bubble in the middle of the rear lines, because when i replaced the rear calipers is when it got real spongy but still stopped the same. thanks.

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These are times I prefer to have either speed bleeders or a mighty vac vacuum pump,designed to pull fluid out of the calipers and get the dang air out.

 

If you dont have a vac pump to bleed the brakes,this is a great time to invest a few dollars to do so.

 

Also,if you take the brake hose off and get just a dribble or drops of fluid from it,theres a very high chance the hose is bad.It should piss out and not just drip.I have this happen on my rear disc caliper once before.Replaced the hose,bled it out and all was good.

 

If your brake booster was bad,you would hear possibly a Hiss from a vacuum leak and the pedal would be superhard to try and stop the car.

 

Also be sure the Master Cylinder doesnt have a slow tiny leak in the rear where the booster piston pushes.

 

Just throwing ideas at ya and hope some of it helps.I went to GM Training school years back for brake training and etc.Its training helped me fix some weird problems over the years even though I dont fix cars for a living anymore.

 

:)

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well i blead the back beake a bit more and the front a little and it stops a little better but i noticed when i bleed the right rear caliper when i loosten the bleeder and the fluid comes out it makes a loud honking noise???? :? the other rear caliper did it a little once or twice but quit. what could that mean?? thanks.

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well i blead the back beake a bit more and the front a little and it stops a little better but i noticed when i bleed the right rear caliper when i loosten the bleeder and the fluid comes out it makes a loud honking noise???? :? the other rear caliper did it a little once or twice but quit. what could that mean?? thanks.

 

If its farting on the way out,its got air in it somewhere.

 

:)

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I've heard this plenty too.... I don't think it is actually air, it seems to me that it is the piston actually shuddering. As in... stick-slip-stick-slip-stick-slip-stick-slip-stick-slip I think it's a sign that your rear calipers are nearly shot..... Probably surface rust has occured in the bore. But even when they do this, they may still work for a long time!!!

 

I've suggested:

http://www.tpsgarage.com/TGP/brakes/rear_brake_upgrade.htm

and I've done this twice.

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