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GutlessSupreme
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if someone can send me a tgp rad i can have them made for between 400-550 for all tig welded alum and custom shrouds

 

$190 Ebay, pick your width. Click on my WWW goto the truck and look at that rad. It's going to cool the 509. It's made by norther Radiator. ALL aluminum. It's gorgeous. I matched one up and IIRC (it's been awhile) there is one that is w/in 1/2" of the stock size. It'll need custom mounts, but I did it in my truck so...

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He has 6 good 3.4 injectors, all new o-rings, the S-hose is in good shape but theres no clamp holding it on. I replaced the plenum gaskets not long ago. The battery is 8 or 9 months old. Replace the ground and positive wire, and right where the fuseable link is needs 2 be patched, the wires are slighly exposed. The ICM and coil packs are off my SE 3.1, so there plenty good. I would rip the upper intake off, clean up the runners with a cleaner, new gaskets and bling bling everything

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powerwash radiator and/or get it flushed out, along with Chem-dipping the intercooler. check turbo shaft play. replace O2 sensor if needed. what crossover pipe do you have? i would seriously consider replacing it with a Jeff M pipe or at least getting some new flex bellows welded in if you still have a stock TGP crossover pipe. otherwise just check everything over really good and clean stuff.

 

Friend that frequents TD said that one of the guys there powerwashed his radiator and needed to have the whole thing recombed :? unless you mean the inside. Chem-dipping the IC is going to happen. Shaft play is next to none. O2 sensor wouldn't be a bad idea, but it's easy enough with everything back on, so it may wait. I'm getting some of that large diameter braided hose stuff from Davis, which will be replacing the bellows. Everything I'm pulling off is gonna get clean up really well, and I'm gonna try my best to clean everything still in the bay without getting water or anything in the LIM. Probably just bag it up good.

 

oh yeah, check PCV S-hose along with a new PCV valve, ohm test the injectors, hell i would pull them out of the LIM and fuel rail and replace all 12 injector O-rings along with the fuel line O-rings! inspect fuel injector sub wiring harness, along with vacuum lines....

 

Jeff says the hose is in good shape, I haven't looked at it myself though.. I did buy a new PCV valve the other day anything though, because it's a PITA to do. And I know the injectors are all set. Vacuum lines, almost forgot about those.. I think I'm gonna be redoing some. I have to examine more though.

 

Turbo's off? T28...

 

Believe me I wish.. told myself no mods until the thing was actually on the road though.

 

It's easy enough to take off anyway. Crossover suprisingly was too (actually still working on that, just have to get the EGR off).

 

I replaced the plenum gaskets not long ago

 

Just plenum? happen to do the LIM gaskets too? And any idea last time the head gaskets were done? I don't want to but I really should if I'm at this point.. then I have to buy all new bolts and shit too right? Torque to yield.. blah.

 

Replace the ground and positive wire, and right where the fuseable link is needs 2 be patched, the wires are slighly exposed.

 

ugh I hate the wiring in this car... can't say I didn't know what I was getting into though. I researched all your old posts for a long time before I bought it.

 

bling bling everything

 

Well, you've seen the plenum ;)

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u quote 2 much lol

 

I never took it down to the lower intake, but I think I have the gasket sitting in my SE for it, ill look next time I get the chance. The heads have never been off the block according 2 Dan. When it warms up out, I'm sure we can get together and rewire the car so it looks stock.

 

t3/t4 turbo, DAMNIT

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  • 1 month later...

Update...

 

New LIM gaskets are on. 1.6 stamped 3100 rockers are installed. LIM's reintalled, as well as the valve covers and fuel rail. All new fuel o-ring, on the injectors and the hard lines leading to/from the rail. Oil pump drive o-ring replaced by GM's updated silicone ring.

 

Altogether the wiring isn't really looking that bad. There are a few cheesy repair spots but no where really important (lights). Most other spots just have knicks in the insulation so they got taped up. Tore 70% of the loom and old tape off, once I get paid this weekend I'm gonna grab one of those pen torches, some shrink wrap and a whole lot of new loom and go to town. The main power cables are kind iffy (mostly the main ground), but I plan on moving the battery to the trunk soon so I'll let them be for now. There seemed to be a lot more ground wires than there should've been.. and some looked kinda hacked (G101 or 103, I can't remember. There's two grounds on two different tranny bolts, and my CS's FSM listed those two #s are opposites for the 3.1 and 3.4. Wires just switched bolts :roll: good old GM)

 

Also found for sure why my reverse lights weren't working. Random misplaced wire from the PS underhood fuse box.. (thank god it didn't end up being the tranny switch, can barely see it under the downpipe and PM3, nevermind get to it.)

 

Vacuum lines are kinda fucked up. The big line that goes from the cruise module to (I think?) the brake pedal is burnt off halfway to the firewall. There's no check ball to be found, nor a T on that line that would go to the cruise. No check valve before the tranny modulator either. All quick stuff, just need to find a good vacuum ball at the j-yard.

 

Also shop vac'd a good 3 gallons of water out of my spare wheel weel, but I think that's my fault.. I have duct tape covering the gaping hole where a tail light would be right now. There IS a hole, however, in the bottom of the well, that was duct taped over... and it was definetly a deliberatly drilled hole :confused: maybe I'll just fill it with RTV or something.

 

Jeff tells me the filler neck still has to be clamped down and the EVAP line from the tank is gone.. but I haven't gotten under the car to look at that yet..

 

Interior needs to be emptied and thrown back together (driver seat and center console are out).

 

With any luck, and a lot of money, I'll be able to drive it by early next week :)

 

up to date pics when I get my battery charger back...

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I gave u a new headlight wiring harness, use it.

 

autozone has check valves for $3 int the help section.

 

make sure you fix the wire 2 the starter (purple), its frayed and makes the car have starting issues.

 

 

the trunk didnt leak before..... :shrug:

 

get the front bumper fixed so its not rubbing the wheel?

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I gave u a new headlight wiring harness, use it.

 

autozone has check valves for $3 int the help section.

 

make sure you fix the wire 2 the starter (purple), its frayed and makes the car have starting issues.

 

 

the trunk didnt leak before..... :shrug:

 

get the front bumper fixed so its not rubbing the wheel?

 

I forgot all about all the light shit I have! it's all buried in the back seat.

 

Check valves - easy

 

starter wires - I know

 

front bumper - hasn't made it off yet. that will happen most likely on Saturday.

 

Glad those rockers worked out for ya. 8)

 

heh, oooh yeaaah 8)

 

Looks good hope you get it up and running soon..

 

thanks!

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Guest TurboSedan

Altogether the wiring isn't really looking that bad. There are a few cheesy repair spots but no where really important (lights). Most other spots just have knicks in the insulation so they got taped up. Tore 70% of the loom and old tape off, once I get paid this weekend I'm gonna grab one of those pen torches, some shrink wrap and a whole lot of new loom and go to town.

 

sounds good :) btw i just bought a new Bernzomatic pen torch today....the old one actually started on fire in my brother's hands while we were getting ready to start splicing wires :shock: the Bernzomatic pen torch cost me $11.99 + tax today. btw make sure you get a roll of friction tape to replace the old tape (the sticky fabric like tape).

 

oh yeah, if you have access to a heat gun that will work great for the heat shrink wrap. otherwise just use the pen torch on LOW and go over the shrink wrap (be careful not to burn it, doh!)

 

good luck, sounds like you're making lots of progress and doing things the right way.

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  • 2 weeks later...

IMG_6830Medium.JPG

LIM removed, gaskets changed, 1.6 stamped rockers in 8)

 

IMG_6832Medium.JPG

http://members.cox.net/odyssey37/images/tgp/IMG_6831Medium.JPG

http://members.cox.net/odyssey37/images/tgp/IMG_6833Medium.JPG

LIM and fuel rail back in!

 

IMG_6834Medium.JPG

rockers again

 

IMG_6835Medium.JPG

http://members.cox.net/odyssey37/images/tgp/IMG_6852Medium.jpg

 

IMG_6854Medium.jpg

BAH-LING

BAH-LING

 

IMG_6859Medium.jpg

turbo kinda cleaned up

 

IMG_6861Medium.jpg

two broken bolts

 

IMG_6865Medium.jpg

front bumper off.. turns out the header panel was tweaked, so I think having adjusted that my tire/bumper love fest will end now.

 

http://members.cox.net/odyssey37/images/tgp/IMG_6867Medium.jpg

 

IMG_6868Medium.jpg

sex!

 

IMG_6869Medium.jpg

 

http://members.cox.net/odyssey37/images/tgp/IMG_6871Medium.jpg

 

IMG_6873Medium.jpg

 

current state of my interior...

 

IMG_6874Medium.jpg

 

IMG_6875Medium.jpg

VFD DIC? 8)

 

IMG_6878Medium.jpg

 

IMG_6908Medium.jpg

my poor paint :(

 

http://members.cox.net/odyssey37/images/tgp/IMG_6883Medium.jpg - sad state of cooling affairs

http://members.cox.net/odyssey37/images/tgp/IMG_6896Medium.jpg - sad state of my wheel/tire :(

http://members.cox.net/odyssey37/images/tgp/IMG_6910Medium.jpg - my new toy :wink:

http://members.cox.net/odyssey37/images/tgp/IMG_6911Medium.jpg - leftover gaskets from doing the LIM the second time around...

http://members.cox.net/odyssey37/images/tgp/IMG_6914Medium.jpg - more bling

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Nice pics Tony. Is that a Bosch o2 I see in the turbo? :oops: I had one in my 93 SE for a few months at one time and it made the car idle a bit rough, otherwise, it ran alright.

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Lots of good work to a project that will soon reward :D.

 

Some suggestions, do what you like though, too often easy-outs break so I found that running a drill down the center of the bolts you have broken off on your turbine housing is another way to get the female threads back. Trick is to drill as much of the old bolt out so that all that is left is very little of the bolt body, and the threads, this relieves the strain of the bolt in there and allows an easy-out to work better, or if not then use a pick to push the side of the bolt/male threads into the center totally relieving the holding power then use needle nose pliers to twist the bolt body/threads out. Don't worry if you nick the female threads in the turbine housing, I have purposely testing one with a good whack to the threads in there (all on one side), a real hefty whack just to see if there would still be enough meat for the bolt to hold and it work great!!! Always clean out with a tap this bolt hole and all of them to make installation much easier, and some anti-seize, just DO NOT twist too hard on the tap, they can break off and do not drill out like the softer bolt :shock: , back the tap out if it gets tight, turbine housing upside down and rap the body to let loose the stuff the tap is cleaning out!!!..then twist the tap back in, remember too, it will bottom out as well so check for this when it gets tight!!

 

With the appearance of oil caked onto the turbine wheel(?) might need a turbo rebuild unless when you slit the turbo oil drain line wide open and find the internal liner separated, might get away with a new turbo oil drain line, lets hope!!

 

Is that an 89 TGP Block??...see some webbing in the lifter galley I have not seen on the many 1990 TGP/TSTE engines I have worked on, might need to add this to the sticky above 8) .

 

Continued good luck!!!

 

Jeff M

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whats anti-seize? i see it used alt ont he xover instuctions u gave me jeff, thanks for it

 

It prevents rust/corrosion, which is the usual cause of bolts/fasteners seizing up. You can probably find another website that lists what it's made of and exactly how it works, but my first statement pretty much sums it up.

 

This is the variety that I normally use for automotive applications(as they make different types of anti-seize compounds).

 

http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=antiseize

 

EDIT: ^You can find it in any automotive store where the gasket sealers, adhesives, etc. are located. :wink:

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see some webbing in the lifter galley I have not seen

:shock: This webbing is on my 94 block. The old 2.8 didn't have that thick webbing. It had the contured webbing around the lifters. :?

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Nice pics Tony. Is that a Bosch o2 I see in the turbo? :oops: I had one in my 93 SE for a few months at one time and it made the car idle a bit rough, otherwise, it ran alright.

 

I hope not :oops: came with the car.. none the less, pretty soon I'll be replacing it anyway...

 

 

Lots of good work to a project that will soon reward :D.

 

Some suggestions, do what you like though, too often easy-outs break so ...... as well so check for this when it gets tight!!

 

thank you for the tips!

 

With the appearance of oil caked onto the turbine wheel(?) might need a turbo rebuild unless when you slit the turbo oil drain line wide open and find the internal liner separated, might get away with a new turbo oil drain line, lets hope!!

 

I don't know where the hell it came from! I've had the turbo off for a good 1.5 months and it certainly wasn't there when I first pulled it. And I was told that it has been rebuilt once before. :?

 

Is that an 89 TGP Block??...see some webbing in the lifter galley I have not seen on the many 1990 TGP/TSTE engines I have worked on, might need to add this to the sticky above 8)

 

Not as far as I know, but I suppose it could be if it was built early enough in '90. From TurboGTU's suggestion though maybe it's actually a newer block...

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I'm pretty sure it is an aftermarket sensor Tony(due to the wire color, it appears to be black in the pictures??).

 

The OEM o2's have a purple wire going to them(my car has a new o2 in it from 2003 so I would imagine the current ones still have the same purple wiring). You can see the wire in this old engine pic.

http://home.alltel.net/mfewtrail/images/engine1.jpg

 

The part # for the OEM sensor is 25162753. It currently lists for $29.84 through gmpartsdirect.

 

If the car runs fine with the current one, I wouldn't worry about it though

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With the appearance of oil caked onto the turbine wheel(?) might need a turbo rebuild unless when you slit the turbo oil drain line wide open and find the internal liner separated, might get away with a new turbo oil drain line, lets hope!!

 

I don't know where the hell it came from! I've had the turbo off for a good 1.5 months and it certainly wasn't there when I first pulled it. And I was told that it has been rebuilt once before. :?

 

Then that is ok, seen good turbos do this, the oil seal inside needs to have some pressure to seal, might be a little worn but should be ok if it was not leaking before/smoking before you took it off(?).

 

Is that an 89 TGP Block??...see some webbing in the lifter galley I have not seen on the many 1990 TGP/TSTE engines I have worked on, might need to add this to the sticky above 8)

 

Not as far as I know, but I suppose it could be if it was built early enough in '90. From TurboGTU's suggestion though maybe it's actually a newer block...

 

I need to be corrected since I see the mascara lined headlights that was supposed to be a 1989 paint job only, but there has never been enough consensus to prove this was not a mid year change/maybe halfway into the 1990 Manufacturing Year/MY which could have been anywhere from September 1989 till December 1989, or beyond, the paper label on the end of your driver's door will tell the month/year the car was made! Could be a new block, easy to tell, where the block bolts to the tranny case and over at a tang that sticks out over the starter area there is a flat spot where the VIN is stamped on the engine block, compare it to your cars VIN.

 

Jeff M

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I'm pretty sure it is an aftermarket sensor Tony(due to the wire color, it appears to be black in the pictures??).

 

yea I think it is black.. the car ran really rich when it was running, but it does have DOHC injectors and some kind of chip.. (need to ask gp90se the details on it again) so it could've been from anything else besides the O2 sensor.

 

Then that is ok, seen good turbos do this, the oil seal inside needs to have some pressure to seal, might be a little worn but should be ok if it was not leaking before/smoking before you took it off(?)

 

Something WAS smoking a little bit from that area of the engine I noticed.. I couldn't figure out what it was though. But it looked like it was coming from deeper down than the turbo.. so I dunno. If anything I'd said it was white smoke, but it was very faint, not really that noticable.

 

I need to be corrected since I see the mascara lined headlights that was supposed to be a 1989 paint job only...

 

Don't pay any attention to the lights.. they've all been changed (accident from two owners ago). I'm 99.9% sure it's the original block, but I'll take a look anyway.

 

News tonight..

 

won this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7967611153&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

 

to replace my one torn up rim, just gonna have to repaint it.

 

I literally didn't get anything done today.. I put in the new hood cable, that was about it. I wanted to be driving it by tomorrow afternoon but it looks like it's going to be pushed back til the end of the week :(

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