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About GutlessSupreme

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Ann Arbor, MI


  • Location
    RI / SC
  • Interests
    Cars (duh), boobies, mechatronics, pizza

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  1. Bump. It is very much still available, and I have no interest in parting it because I don't feel like dealing with the hassle. Reposting on craigslist today. It's time to leave W-bodies behind me.
  2. Now on craigslist:
  3. Well guys, I'm sick of trying to get my TSTE into a driveable state, so I'm giving up and moving on. The reason I'm listing it for parts: the rockers and rear frame rails are trash (i.e. completely rusted out) the paint is trash I don't have a title (because Rhode Island is trash and doesn't issue new titles for cars older than 2001) What you're getting: Original T25 turbo. I think 2 bolts are broken off in the downpipe flange Crossover looks like maybe it was repaired once? Doesn't leak, in any case. I have SS braided flex joints sitting in a box somewhere 3.1 VIN V block rebuilt 10 years ago with about 1000 miles on it, overbored to about 3.2 IIRC 1.6 ratio rockers, LS6 springs Crane H-260 cam There is an oil leak somewhere, but I think it's the oil return hose. It's somewhere on the front of the block near the starter/oil cooler. FFP underdrive pulley Ford yellow-top injectors (~500 miles on them, currently installed) Ford blue-top injectors (these were used and higher #age than the yellow tops, but it was too much fuel for this setup) A few chips to play with. I have one tuned to the point where it drives alright, but you'll want to keep tuning it further because I never got all the kinks worked out, between the 5-speed and the cam and injector changes Moates ALDL datalogging cable I have the Moates chip burner.. somewhere??? High-torque starter from a 2nd gen High flow cat, dual flowmaster 40 series with nice stainless tips. It fits on the car nicely, but the piping is all mismatched sizes and the welds could best be described as "practice" (though it doesn't leak). The 40s sound absolutely delicious. Getrag 282 with all the bits I think the detent cover is leaking (the large black circular cover in the bellhousing) Throwout bearing is trash (I have a new one) Spec stage 3 6-puck clutch (might be trash due to Synchromesh leaking from the detent cover. I'd replace it with a full disc anyway, the 6-puck sucks for driveability) Brand new master and slave cylinders with brand new SS braided hydraulic line New spare clutch fork (though it was definitely bottom of the barrel of what was left) Cutlass "dildo of power" shift knob 34 mm front sway bar w/ Energy Suspension greasable poly bushings KYB GR2's all around Front strut tower braces: convertible brace and the GM performance brace for the 2nd gens Energy Suspension poly front control arm bushings Completely rebuilt front strut towers (bearing plates, bump stops, ball joints, upper mount, etc) Intrax lowering springs. I think they were a 1.5" drop. New rear strut mounts AWEB rear strut tower brace Stock rear trailing arms and lateral links Stock TSTE monoleaf with new knuckle pads 94+ brakes front and rear Goodridge SS braided brake lines Crosslace wheels with 245/50s on them New inner/outer tie rods I think 3/4 wheel hubs/bearings are new. At least two were AC Delco and 1 was an ebay special (sketchy), not sure if I ever replaced the fourth PM3 works fantastic, but it definitely needs an accumulator and/or pressure switch. Pump runs at least every minute or so without pressing the pedal box of like 2 or 3 spare PM3s in various states of disassembly Brand newly installed NOS front light bar (seriously, it is fucking mint) NOS power antenna New gas tank, POR-15'd New fuel pump (stock spec) NOS fuel pump float HUD Headliner is trash Dash cracked, have a spare non-HUD dash (I think the dash pad in the car was also a non-HUD dash originally) Sunroof Two turbo instrument clusters, both with the usual problems (tach is way off), one is apart Seats are pretty good, rear right part of the bench and rear right seatbelts have some dark stains. Carpet is so-so. All the electronics work (other than the clusters) That super hard-to-find decklid lip spoiler (unpainted) Body is pretty straight and there's not actually any real rust above the rockers. Doors are good, hood has some surface rust and a small dent on the nose, fenders are good. Valence is cracked. Car is not driveable right now and would need to be towed on a full trailer/flatbed. I started trying to remove the rust, and as a result, there is currently no place to mount the passenger side trailing arm. I could potentially ghetto-weld a bracket in place to reattach the trailing arm so that it could be thrown on a dolly, but I really would not recommend it. I've been rebuilding this car since 2006 and the rust situation has finally pushed me to get rid of it. I stopped keeping track of costs once I hit $6k, and that was in like 2008. I have tons of receipts and paperwork and oddball spare parts.
  4. Not mine, just FYI:
  5. It went to a local junkyard in RI. This was ten years ago, so it's long gone. I put my soul into that car and it bit me, so I bit back out of teenage frustration.
  6. 1G5WP14V8LF298307 '90, red, tan leather, unknown original stereo, sunroof, unknown build date, 140,022 miles, scraped 9/2005 after motor blew. Doesn't look like I have any pictures of the door sticker, and I know the spare tire cover wasn't the original, so the option sticker on that was bogus anyway. I haven't read this whole topic, are you collecting TSTE VINs too?
  7. $30 - Tan Grand Prix HUD dashpad. Good shape. One fin in the defroster grill is broken, and there's a crack starting on the dash pad just below that. $40 - Tan Grand Prix HUD with dimmer. Should fit '88-'94. Perfect shape, works fine. All wiring included (splices will be required if you're adding this to your car that didn't come with a HUD). I'd prefer not to sell the pieces separately. Could combine with the dashpad for a discount. $15 - Tan Grand Prix center console. I have the whole thing, the console, the armrest with the seat controls, and the surround for the DIC. If you only want pieces, make an offer. The ashtray lid came off, but I still have it and it could be glued back on. -SOLD- Maroon Cutlass HUD with dashpad bracket, dimmer/height adjust, adjustment cable, and wiring. Should fit '88-'94. Works perfectly. I'd prefer not to sell the pieces separately. This will definitely need wire splicing if you're adding to a car that didn't originally have a HUD.
  8. $40 - TGP/TSTE radiator. This is turbo specific. I would definitely bring this to a shop to have a new core put it, a lot of the fins are rotted out and there might be leaks. More pics: $10 - Front passenger side brake caliper, fits '88-'96. It has pads, but I would throw them away, because they're grooved, but also because you should have matching pads on left/right calipers.
  9. Yo dudes. I really, really want this stuff gone within a week, and I might toss stuff if it doesn't sell by then. Prices are negotiable. SHIPPING NOT INCLUDED I'm also not super inclined to ship the bumpers/fender because it's a pain to make sure they don't get damaged. I'm in southern Rhode Island, if anyone wants local pickup. That said, -I could potentially deliver between RI and SC somewhere close to I95 or I85 in the coming weeks -I could potentially deliver between RI and Detroit in the coming month; I don't have a set route yet $70 - Red TGP front bumper, good shape, paint's a little faded. It's a little warped, but I've had good luck with a heat gun and block of wood to bring it back into shape. More pics: $20 - Red TGP bumper, bad shape. I have no idea if it can be patched up. I figure I'd post it anyway since they're kinda hard to find. More pics: $30 - Red TGP valance, rough shape. It has a crack at either bottom corner, not sure if they can be patched, but again, they're hard to find so I'd rather not just toss it. More pics: $30 - Red TGP driver side fender, decent shape. Has 3 small dents and needs touch up paint in a few spots, but nothing major. Needs to be cleaned and buffed. Moar: $20 - Red TGP front fender flares, one left and one right. The right one has a little damage near the front, but it's facing into the wheel well and shouldn't be too noticeable. Shouldn't affect mounting. More pics: $20/ea, $30/pair - Grand Prix headlights. They are sedan headlights because they have low voltage lights that protrude in from the bottom that complete the look of the lightbar, so that the whole front end lights up, but they also bolt into a coupe just fine (there's just no wiring provisions in the coupes for the low voltage lights. I don't have any extra wiring for them). No damage, but plastic lenses are a little hazy. More pics: $5/ea, $7/pair - Grand Prix front corner lights. I think these would be considered early model, like '88-'90, because of the black "eyeliner" around the top edges, but they will bolt in to any model '88-'96, afaik. No damage. One other pic:
  10. Hey Night Fury- which two? If you wouldn't mind making a quick one anyway, I'd appreciate it. If anyone has pics of their AQ9s stripped down, showing the air bladders and stuff, that would be helpful too. Thanks.
  11. Does anyone have one or could anyone post one? I'd be forever in gratitude. I'm trying to explain a concept to somebody but I'm 900 miles away from mine. I'm just looking for a short video showing each of the different bladders inflating/deflating, showing the range of motion/operation.
  12. Sorry. I was a bit grumpy earlier. That, and as I've progressed through getting my degree, and actually learned the truth behind a lot of things that guys on the internet/in shops/etc. swear is right or wrong, I just cringe and get frustrated when they try so hard to sell it as factual or correct, when in fact they don't really know what they're talking about. But that's not your fault. Seemingly knowledgeable people have informed you of these things, and when your experiences thus-far seem to be in-line with what they're telling you, it's easy to come to believe it. I guess that's how learning works though. Hell, theories in a lot of areas of science change all the time, because everything you've observed and have been told by everyone else seem to be in agreement with what's happening, then new data or observations happen that make you rethink your original assumptions. Even for a lot of engineering theory, not that it necessarily changes, but for a good number of things, there are several different theories on the best way to try to quantify things that happen, or what will cause what, etc. As an example that I'm really pulling out of my ass because I don't remember the specifics that well (that's what text/reference books are for), when trying to develop failure criteria for some design, say a steering knuckle or a trailing arm or something, there are several different theories that different people have come up with that try to take into account extreme loading, cyclic loading/unloading, corrosion effect, crack development and propagation, etc. that will try to predict somehow what it will take for that component to fail, and to design something with at least a 3x factor of safety to prevent that from happening. But there's a couple of different ways of calculating such a thing, and nobody can say this theory is wrong, just that this one appears to be better than another. Ramble ramble. Sorry. done rambling, going to bed. Just know that there are legitimate reasons behind things like torque specs. They may not always be right, and I believe the torque spec for the axle nuts was actually revised to something much lower than 184 ft-lbs as time went on (my 1990 and 1992 services manuals do both say 184, though). But there is definitely such thing as too tight and not tight enough. In a lot of cases, it won't matter. Something rattles loose and you retighten it, or you snap a bolt head off, curse and then have to extract it and replace it somehow. With wheel hubs, too loose and the bearing will wobble and destroy itself and the wheel could separate. Too tight and you'll destroy and expensive sealed-unit hub, or possibly even damage/stretch threads enough so as to severely degrade the integrity of the fastener, and then who knows, the nut could back off or split or something crazy. Ya, of course those are not highly likely. But they can happen. Yes, I am that asshole who torques all of my lugs correctly at least 90% of the time. My stepdad was a mechanic a long time ago, and it drives him nuts. But I do it because I understand the reason for it.
  13. This might be considered trolling on my part... but I really want to hit you sometimes. Believe me when I say that "book experts" are learning from extensive theory that has been developed over many years of various types of laboratory and real-world testing on things like bearing life, preload and allowable play in bearings, fastener strength i.e. tightening limits before yielding (that means stretching), so that the designated spec isn't even good anymore because now the threads are permanently deformed after over-tightening and in fact will require MORE torque the next time it's tightened in order to maintain the same preload and not back-off (i.e. bolt/nut separation) while having become weaker in the process, not to mention crushing bearings that are meant to handle extreme radial loads but NOT extreme axial compressive loads... But you're right. An engineer, for instance, would have no idea what he's talking about. There are a lot of areas where you'll get by just fine going by what snap-on guy bob and mechanic willy and all of your high school friends have told you. Bearing life is not one of those.
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