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About GutlessSupreme

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Ann Arbor, MI


  • Location
    RI / SC
  • Interests
    Cars (duh), boobies, mechatronics, pizza

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  1. Uhhh. Tentative yes. I'd recommend bringing a battery. Otherwise... well, at least my driveway points downhill xD
  2. *bump* still available Updated link: Please somebody buy it, or pass it along. I have no energy to part it, but I really want to be rid of it. It has so many good / basically new / rare parts on it and I'd hate myself for scrapping it. For someone on here or on w-body or on 60degree, I might be able to help transport it within the Michigan/Ohio-ish area. Maybe. Not sure if U-Haul will allow me a full-trailer for my Dakota. PS rear trailer arm is gone, so there's no way I would put it on just a tow dolly.
  3. Bump. It is very much still available, and I have no interest in parting it because I don't feel like dealing with the hassle. Reposting on craigslist today. It's time to leave W-bodies behind me.
  4. Now on craigslist:
  5. Well guys, I'm sick of trying to get my TSTE into a driveable state, so I'm giving up and moving on. The reason I'm listing it for parts: the rockers and rear frame rails are trash (i.e. completely rusted out) the paint is trash I don't have a title (because Rhode Island is trash and doesn't issue new titles for cars older than 2001) What you're getting: Original T25 turbo. I think 2 bolts are broken off in the downpipe flange Crossover looks like maybe it was repaired once? Doesn't leak, in any case. I have SS braided flex joints sitting in a box somewhere 3.1 VIN V block rebuilt 10 years ago with about 1000 miles on it, overbored to about 3.2 IIRC 1.6 ratio rockers, LS6 springs Crane H-260 cam There is an oil leak somewhere, but I think it's the oil return hose. It's somewhere on the front of the block near the starter/oil cooler. FFP underdrive pulley Ford yellow-top injectors (~500 miles on them, currently installed) Ford blue-top injectors (these were used and higher #age than the yellow tops, but it was too much fuel for this setup) A few chips to play with. I have one tuned to the point where it drives alright, but you'll want to keep tuning it further because I never got all the kinks worked out, between the 5-speed and the cam and injector changes Moates ALDL datalogging cable I have the Moates chip burner.. somewhere??? High-torque starter from a 2nd gen High flow cat, dual flowmaster 40 series with nice stainless tips. It fits on the car nicely, but the piping is all mismatched sizes and the welds could best be described as "practice" (though it doesn't leak). The 40s sound absolutely delicious. Getrag 282 with all the bits I think the detent cover is leaking (the large black circular cover in the bellhousing) Throwout bearing is trash (I have a new one) Spec stage 3 6-puck clutch (might be trash due to Synchromesh leaking from the detent cover. I'd replace it with a full disc anyway, the 6-puck sucks for driveability) Brand new master and slave cylinders with brand new SS braided hydraulic line New spare clutch fork (though it was definitely bottom of the barrel of what was left) Cutlass "dildo of power" shift knob 34 mm front sway bar w/ Energy Suspension greasable poly bushings KYB GR2's all around Front strut tower braces: convertible brace and the GM performance brace for the 2nd gens Energy Suspension poly front control arm bushings Completely rebuilt front strut towers (bearing plates, bump stops, ball joints, upper mount, etc) Intrax lowering springs. I think they were a 1.5" drop. New rear strut mounts AWEB rear strut tower brace Stock rear trailing arms and lateral links Stock TSTE monoleaf with new knuckle pads 94+ brakes front and rear Goodridge SS braided brake lines Crosslace wheels with 245/50s on them New inner/outer tie rods I think 3/4 wheel hubs/bearings are new. At least two were AC Delco and 1 was an ebay special (sketchy), not sure if I ever replaced the fourth PM3 works fantastic, but it definitely needs an accumulator and/or pressure switch. Pump runs at least every minute or so without pressing the pedal box of like 2 or 3 spare PM3s in various states of disassembly Brand newly installed NOS front light bar (seriously, it is fucking mint) NOS power antenna New gas tank, POR-15'd New fuel pump (stock spec) NOS fuel pump float HUD Headliner is trash Dash cracked, have a spare non-HUD dash (I think the dash pad in the car was also a non-HUD dash originally) Sunroof Two turbo instrument clusters, both with the usual problems (tach is way off), one is apart Seats are pretty good, rear right part of the bench and rear right seatbelts have some dark stains. Carpet is so-so. All the electronics work (other than the clusters) That super hard-to-find decklid lip spoiler (unpainted) Body is pretty straight and there's not actually any real rust above the rockers. Doors are good, hood has some surface rust and a small dent on the nose, fenders are good. Valence is cracked. Car is not driveable right now and would need to be towed on a full trailer/flatbed. I started trying to remove the rust, and as a result, there is currently no place to mount the passenger side trailing arm. I could potentially ghetto-weld a bracket in place to reattach the trailing arm so that it could be thrown on a dolly, but I really would not recommend it. I've been rebuilding this car since 2006 and the rust situation has finally pushed me to get rid of it. I stopped keeping track of costs once I hit $6k, and that was in like 2008. I have tons of receipts and paperwork and oddball spare parts.
  6. Not mine, just FYI:
  7. It went to a local junkyard in RI. This was ten years ago, so it's long gone. I put my soul into that car and it bit me, so I bit back out of teenage frustration.
  8. 1G5WP14V8LF298307 '90, red, tan leather, unknown original stereo, sunroof, unknown build date, 140,022 miles, scraped 9/2005 after motor blew. Doesn't look like I have any pictures of the door sticker, and I know the spare tire cover wasn't the original, so the option sticker on that was bogus anyway. I haven't read this whole topic, are you collecting TSTE VINs too?
  9. $30 - Tan Grand Prix HUD dashpad. Good shape. One fin in the defroster grill is broken, and there's a crack starting on the dash pad just below that. $40 - Tan Grand Prix HUD with dimmer. Should fit '88-'94. Perfect shape, works fine. All wiring included (splices will be required if you're adding this to your car that didn't come with a HUD). I'd prefer not to sell the pieces separately. Could combine with the dashpad for a discount. $15 - Tan Grand Prix center console. I have the whole thing, the console, the armrest with the seat controls, and the surround for the DIC. If you only want pieces, make an offer. The ashtray lid came off, but I still have it and it could be glued back on. -SOLD- Maroon Cutlass HUD with dashpad bracket, dimmer/height adjust, adjustment cable, and wiring. Should fit '88-'94. Works perfectly. I'd prefer not to sell the pieces separately. This will definitely need wire splicing if you're adding to a car that didn't originally have a HUD.
  10. $40 - TGP/TSTE radiator. This is turbo specific. I would definitely bring this to a shop to have a new core put it, a lot of the fins are rotted out and there might be leaks. More pics: $10 - Front passenger side brake caliper, fits '88-'96. It has pads, but I would throw them away, because they're grooved, but also because you should have matching pads on left/right calipers.
  11. Yo dudes. I really, really want this stuff gone within a week, and I might toss stuff if it doesn't sell by then. Prices are negotiable. SHIPPING NOT INCLUDED I'm also not super inclined to ship the bumpers/fender because it's a pain to make sure they don't get damaged. I'm in southern Rhode Island, if anyone wants local pickup. That said, -I could potentially deliver between RI and SC somewhere close to I95 or I85 in the coming weeks -I could potentially deliver between RI and Detroit in the coming month; I don't have a set route yet $70 - Red TGP front bumper, good shape, paint's a little faded. It's a little warped, but I've had good luck with a heat gun and block of wood to bring it back into shape. More pics: $20 - Red TGP bumper, bad shape. I have no idea if it can be patched up. I figure I'd post it anyway since they're kinda hard to find. More pics: $30 - Red TGP valance, rough shape. It has a crack at either bottom corner, not sure if they can be patched, but again, they're hard to find so I'd rather not just toss it. More pics: $30 - Red TGP driver side fender, decent shape. Has 3 small dents and needs touch up paint in a few spots, but nothing major. Needs to be cleaned and buffed. Moar: $20 - Red TGP front fender flares, one left and one right. The right one has a little damage near the front, but it's facing into the wheel well and shouldn't be too noticeable. Shouldn't affect mounting. More pics: $20/ea, $30/pair - Grand Prix headlights. They are sedan headlights because they have low voltage lights that protrude in from the bottom that complete the look of the lightbar, so that the whole front end lights up, but they also bolt into a coupe just fine (there's just no wiring provisions in the coupes for the low voltage lights. I don't have any extra wiring for them). No damage, but plastic lenses are a little hazy. More pics: $5/ea, $7/pair - Grand Prix front corner lights. I think these would be considered early model, like '88-'90, because of the black "eyeliner" around the top edges, but they will bolt in to any model '88-'96, afaik. No damage. One other pic:
  12. Hey Night Fury- which two? If you wouldn't mind making a quick one anyway, I'd appreciate it. If anyone has pics of their AQ9s stripped down, showing the air bladders and stuff, that would be helpful too. Thanks.
  13. Does anyone have one or could anyone post one? I'd be forever in gratitude. I'm trying to explain a concept to somebody but I'm 900 miles away from mine. I'm just looking for a short video showing each of the different bladders inflating/deflating, showing the range of motion/operation.
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