test4echo Posted October 21, 2004 Report Share Posted October 21, 2004 92 Z34 Hi guys, Been a while since I've any trouble with my lummi after the overhaul I did. ALL to the engine.... Anyway, 2 days ago my brakes on the rear driver side went. Instead of giving me a few days of squeal, the bitch was gouging my rotor right away. So, I got it her up, took both calipers off (not completely), pads, no trouble. However getting those rotors off (motherf**ckers) I could NOT DO. I tried everthing except torch it. Is this a common thing? Is there any secret to getting off a seizer rotor besides torching it? I don't have a torch, and if I have to do that, it kinda negates the money saving I was hoping for. Are there Pullers specially for rotors you can rent cheap? Or did I just not bang away enough....lol? I was a bit worried about smacken em to hard. Any ideas? Thanks, Test, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted October 21, 2004 Report Share Posted October 21, 2004 Only thing I usually do is PB Blaster where it's stuck and let it sit for a day or so (reapplying 2-3 times in the middle) and tap on it with a hammer and try to pull it off the next day. Specifically DO NOT hit it REALLY hard with a small sledge or anything, as it has the potential to screw up the bearings if hit too hard at that angle. You can actually hit it normally hard with a regular (12-16oz) hammer, although I usually use a rubber mallet, but since you are scrapping the rotor, the sharp vibrations of a real hammer may or may not work better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannymik Posted October 21, 2004 Report Share Posted October 21, 2004 I think its common for rear rotors to do this, they are the ones with the frozen calipers 95 of the time. I never worried about the bearings...a few hard hits with a decent sized hammer and she'll break loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted October 21, 2004 Report Share Posted October 21, 2004 i know my front rotors did this. the bolt was so coroded and such, we tried everything, but we didnt have some kind of air wrench, so we took it in and they used an air wrench on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HokemBokem Posted October 21, 2004 Report Share Posted October 21, 2004 Put anti sieze on next time to avoid this problem. When I did my brake job the rotors pulled right off no problem. I think thats bc we have very little rust here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
test4echo Posted October 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2004 So basically I should hit thing harder. Thats pisses me off. To be so close, have everything ready, have new brakes, and fail cause I wimped out hitting the bitch with a big hammer. Oh well, theres always tomorrow. Here I come you bastard....sledge hammer and all....... Your comming off. Thanks guys. Test, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HokemBokem Posted October 21, 2004 Report Share Posted October 21, 2004 keep us updated on how it turns out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtp34 Posted October 21, 2004 Report Share Posted October 21, 2004 Exact same thing happened to one of my rear rotors on the Regal. I used my 6inch 3 jaw puller and got it off. It was stuck on very good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckethead Posted October 21, 2004 Report Share Posted October 21, 2004 WD-40 or penetrating oil... hose the rotor down with that shit, then let it sit for a while (up to a day) and spray it again... wait another hour or so and try smackin it with the hammer again... Yeah use anti-seize the next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
test4echo Posted October 22, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2004 Yes I would have used anti-seize, but this the first time I've had to deal with the rear brakes. You bet I'll use A-S when I get the bastards off. What an aweful mess they left me........ I'm gonna dump the asbestos remains on thier front lawn. Test, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canada Posted October 22, 2004 Report Share Posted October 22, 2004 Anti-Sieze doesn't like heat....even the "high temp" stuff. Think these are hard? Try getting rear drums off a C/K truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted October 22, 2004 Report Share Posted October 22, 2004 Anti-Sieze doesn't like heat....even the "high temp" stuff. why do you say that? even new O2 sensors come with anti-sieze already applied to the threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
test4echo Posted October 22, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2004 Well, had her up again today. Got those bastard Rotors off! All i needed was a bigger hammer. Unfortunantly, I didn't take the advice and get a tool for the Caliper Piston. So guess what happened? Son of a beeotch would not go in for me. I turned it this way then that way, all the while the c-clamp keeps falling off and the screw driver makes mince meat of the piston boot. Why oh why didn't i just but the fucking tool.... Only cost 20 bucks, now I have to either find a way to replace the boot, or say screw it and leave it. I did buy the tool, so tommorow I'll be out early in the rain, doing this all over again. Hopefully, it works out. test, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HokemBokem Posted October 22, 2004 Report Share Posted October 22, 2004 That sucks that you couldent get the caliper piston down. Me and my dad used a little block of wood and a c clamp. I will also be purchasing that tool though soon. Well good luck with the rest of the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannymik Posted October 22, 2004 Report Share Posted October 22, 2004 Well, had her up again today.Got those bastard Rotors off! All i needed was a bigger hammer. Unfortunantly, I didn't take the advice and get a tool for the Caliper Piston. So guess what happened? Son of a beeotch would not go in for me. I turned it this way then that way, all the while the c-clamp keeps falling off and the screw driver makes mince meat of the piston boot. Why oh why didn't i just but the fucking tool.... Only cost 20 bucks, now I have to either find a way to replace the boot, or say screw it and leave it. I did buy the tool, so tommorow I'll be out early in the rain, doing this all over again. Hopefully, it works out. test, thats a bummer man! Did you try needle nose pliers to twist the piston? Thats what I use when I dont have that tool handy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
test4echo Posted October 23, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2004 Part of the problem is that I was by myself, 100KM away from home and I did NOT want to get stuck at my school where I work. I was using our High Schools garage which has a nice lift . But, I only had 2 and half hours to complete both sides before they would have kicked me out. So i was kinda under the gun, getting really frustrated the whole time. My anxiety wasn't helping matters... :x Oh well, at least it ain'y raining out yet. Time to go outside. Later, Test, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
test4echo Posted October 23, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2004 Ok, got the bitch up again, got the rotors off, used my new tool (peice of shit, waste of 20 bucks) to get the piton back in. All was going great. Until, I found out I think they game me the wrong pads or I'm just an idiot when it comes to rear brakes (this could be). Here are the pads they gave me. They fit fine in the caliper. But here comes the problem. this a pic of the clearance between the rear pad and the rotor, you can see by the PIC here, that the piston is fully seated. This pic is of front pad, you can see THERE is NO clearance. I have the old pad in, and it barely fits, a new pad definetly would not fit. As far as I know you cannot adjust the caliper housing itself, because it cast. Can any one tell me what I'm doing wrong? Even with the caliper piston fully seated, it seem like there is just no room for a new outside front pad. The dimensions of the caliper housing itself seems to small. Help!! Test, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannymik Posted October 23, 2004 Report Share Posted October 23, 2004 If the piston is fully seated or in all the way and its impossible to get the caliper over the rotor(with the new pads) then there is a chance they messed up when boxing the product. Check everything over one more time and make sure the piston wont go in anymore...take a good look at the new vs. old pads(any difference) and then lastly call the store you bought them from. I'm not an expert on brakes, but I have been through the shitty GM brake system drama a handful of times! goodluck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
test4echo Posted October 23, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2004 After looking at those pics again, Do I have to use a C-Clamp to compress those Rubber Bushings(where the mounting bolts go in) so my new front pads fit on? I'll kill myself if thats what I forgot to do...... Test, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoroCorona Posted October 23, 2004 Report Share Posted October 23, 2004 Be prepared to kill yourself. Thats what you forgot to do. Reset the sildes all the way into the caliper and it should fit fine. I just did my rear brakes too... With a C clamp, Screw driver, and the tool from autozone. Simple as shit... One caliper was seized, but yeah, that was the only problem I had. And remans are cheep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
test4echo Posted October 24, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2004 nevermind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HokemBokem Posted October 24, 2004 Report Share Posted October 24, 2004 I just layed a little block of wood over the pistons and put the c clamp on the middle and tightened. Worked like a charm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted October 24, 2004 Report Share Posted October 24, 2004 I just layed a little block of wood over the pistons and put the c clamp on the middle and tightened. Worked like a charmThat works fine on the front calipers, but these guys are talking about the rear calipers. On the rears you not only have to apply pressure to the piston, but you have to rotate it as well so you can "screw" it back down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
test4echo Posted October 24, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2004 Ok, I am the next poster boy for retards. I swear, I'm such an idiot. But, now I know hoe to change the rear brakes and rotors in under 45 minutes. The problem I had (or mental slip) was that I forgot about the Bolt sleeves. I got the Piston just fine. But I forgot to re-seat the Bolt sleeves. I didn't even need a c-clamp for that. Just pushed them both back with my thumb. Easy as pie. At least, now it is. Thanks for all your help fellas. I think I qualify for drugs now. Test, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannymik Posted October 24, 2004 Report Share Posted October 24, 2004 good job tech, the best way to learn is from your "mistakes", hopefully there not the type that lead to future problems. You are a duplicate of me when I first to my brakes apart for the 1st time, 2nd time, and 3rd time ...after about 6-7 brake jobs on my last 2 w-bodys I dont cringe when I pull them apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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