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Got her running boys!! Not only that, she runs tip top again!! It was timing all along. Fabbed some tools in my father in laws shop to replicate those in the Kent moore kit and worked like a charm. A big thank you to those who offered help and guidance through my first real foray into the 3.4L dohc joys and frustrations. It's been better than 12 yrs since my z34 and I never tackled projects like gaskets or timing on it. This is really a great group!!

*It basically adjust the steering feel when going thru a parking lot and then tightens up when on the highway or Interstate*. almost......lol, not quite.... the sensor is there to 1. disengage the a/c .... 2. send a signal to the ecm to raise the engine rpm when the vehicle speed is so slow that the engine rpm is to low to adequately assist the needed power steering pressure. When the pressure in the system drops to a pre determined pressure that switch opens, the ecm *sees* that & raises the engine rpm to increase the pump rpm & power steering pressure. The sensor is referred to as Idle Speed Power Steering Pressure Switch

It had to be saved, it was going to the Jawas otherwise. All Jiggity57`s fault for posting it. I got into a bit of a race the other day when I probably shouldnt have. I made a right turn and immediately found a speeding BMW attempting to swerve around me from a sharp corner in the right lane. I laid into the pedal a bit, chirped the tires and heard an awesome turbo wastegate PAHHTISHHHHH and left the kraut cart far into the rearview mirror. Scared the hell out of me and blew the lower hose off the turbo in the process. I love this freakin` car! Decades after WW2 and we can still put the Messerschmitt`s in their place, just not in a P51 Mustangs.

I know I have one NOS in my my Parts Stash, and theres another member wanting to buy some parts out of that box... I just gotta find it in my garage.. Kids... Dont hoard stuff.. When you want something, you will NEVER find it!

149,996mi I`m thinking about registering for a spot at the Good Guys show in Lebanon, TN next month. Its now open to all American cars `99 and earlier.

Hello, I’m new here but wanted to take the first step toward posting. As you can see in the title I have a 1991 Grand Prix. I just finished getting my DIY exhaust mocked up and ready to weld and I will try to post pictures of it soon as well as other things. I have all new KYB struts and just ordered the rest of the parts I need to build rear coil overs, with the intention of lowering the car a lot. Will start a thread on that soon. Glad to be here.

You're welcome.

So sorry, here I am asking for help and I go off the radar. Here is the pic...it looks like it's attached to the glass actually. I've attached also a pic of the car - such as shame as everything is perfect on it, 13,000 original miles. Love to get this fixed. Sorry the pic looks so huge.

Pretty sure every one of these cars use this

yes indeed...

Little update, we got it tuned pretty good just having trouble making boost. Fixed a couple leaky intercooler pipes and it takes forever to build boost. Thinking maybe the 2 1/2 is too big for the turbo piping, probably will go to 2 inch. We have cam to put in which will help aswell. More vids coming soon

Thanks for getting back to me. I found a bad injector. It wouldn’t start. Had a na 3.1 back in the day that died while driving and ended up being a shorted injector. Also got the knock sensor out. Broke the clip though. Squeezed to hard I guess. When I get it back together I’ll post if it runs better. I think the exhaust leak is all crossover! If it at least runs better I will work on pulling that out next to have an exhaust shop fix it hopefully. If anyone still has a step by step on the remove and install of the crossover please post it if you can. All links are dead looking for this stuff these days. Also does anyone have an old chip they would sell for the ecm? Those links and people who did them are gone also. Sure would like to get some more hp if I get her running good.

Agreeing here with what everyone else is saying. Here in the States, it seems the Z34/5 speed cars are the most common. If I were you, and if you're really wanting a 5 speed car, I buy a 5 speed GTP, PLUS...a Z34/5 speed car for just parts. You could then scavenge what you needed from it to get the GTP reliable, (if it's not already), or have a back up parts car for when the time is needed. I post any rare cars that come up for sale here so please keep an eye out for that information. I also post junkyard cars that people can scavenge from in order to keep our cars alive and road worthy. I also do it for historical reference as well.

Hey Brad. I saw both of those GTPs on Facebook marketplace. I live in Kelowna so check often (looking for parts always). I’d pull the trigger on the blue GTP just because I love that colour on a GTP. I checked just now though and can’t find it so maybe it is sold. The white GTP is back up for 4500 I’ve never seen it around Kelowna so not sure if it’s like mine and just sits most of the time. It has the B4U lower valance intact so that’s a huge plus. You could probably get the seller to move on the price. GTPs of this era hardly ever come up in BC so you should pounce. You might not ever see another in that shape again around here. As for 5speeds. I’ve only ever come across 3 of them in my life. And 2 of those 3 transmissions are on my bench and took 15 years to score way back. I have all the parts for a swap and slowly working towards an engine rebuild and install. Forget the 5 speed it’s a true unicorn now, was 20 years ago. Even if you found a complete junk parts car all your efforts are best placed to just get an auto to restore over time and enjoy. I would look carefully at the trailing arm mounts for rust, if it’s solid there go for either car. If you get the white one painting the hood louvers white should be your first order of business. just heat the screws up before you take ‘em out.

It's always in Carlisle , the last time I was there was 9 years ago.

GM Nationals?

Thanks again, we`re going to have to get all these cars together at some point so you can check it out. Its been years since a meet up happened. Shes going to the show, May 17-19. I`m going to try to find some seat covers that fit good and might give that dash cover a shot on RA to hide the crack. The paint might not be in the best of shape with the orange peel and fading wheel arches and I`m not the best at talking with strangers but it should be a good time.

Cam is in, got engine bay cleaned up and wires wrapped a little better, exhaust painted aswell

Welcome to the forum! First things first, get that crossover replaced, that will cause all kinds of running issues with it. Exhaust leaks wreck how these cars run. A point of advise, probably not relevant at the moment but I seem to remember decreasing the spark plug gap from whatever the factory recommends to help with some other running issues. There is only one person i'm aware of who repairs those at this point. Forum member GOT2BGM aka Matt Shantz he's not on the forum much these days I'm sure he's active on the various facebook w body groups but regardless i'll shoot him a message to drop by the forum.

Doing that "in the chassis" would never happen in MY driveway. That engine would come OUT, so I didn't have to work on my back like a prostitute for the whole job. Flip the engine over on an engine stand, rather than flipping the worker over on the concrete. Likely get a better job done with the main seal, pan gaskets, etc. High mileage? Timing set, rings, head gaskets and valve job. MAYBE bore + pistons, crank grind, block decking...

It appears you can raise the engine enough to clear the oil pan with the subframe in place on a 3100.

So the aftermarket radio my cutlass came with from the previous owner is awful and I hate it. Luckily they did use the wire adapter and didn't hack up the factory harness. I just purchased Joying Android 10.0 Head Unit Octa Core 4GB+64GB 7 Inch Single Din from Amazon and should be at my house on this sunday. I will post pre and post install pictures for everyone on here. I'm just going to be reusing the harness and install kit that was already there. I will give updates down the road of my likes and dislikes of the new head unit. If you have any questions please feel free to ask. (I hated my radio enough that I decided to replace it before I fixed my top lol)

Yeah, that's it Greg, up here in the salt belt they are prone to rotting out if not coated to protect them.

Personally, get a decent set of tires on Before you get an alignment done. The PS return line is an extended length piping, there are two sections to it, the shorter section is at the ps pump, it feeds down the front of the engine, there is a flexible hose on the end that connects to the major return piping that then feeds around the subframe to the front portion in front of the oilpan, then back along the same route all the way back to the rack. It's the total length of the return line that acts as a cooler for the fluid. Without any more info on your steering components condition I'll say this........when these cars were new there were issues with the steering wheel having a shimmy when *on center*, our car wasn't free of this issue, when at 8,000kms the steering developed that shimmy. It went back to the dealer who on the 1st visit replaced the ps pump thinking that the relief valve was fluttering, on the 2nd visit replaced the rack thinking the pressure seals inside were defective, on the 3rd visit removed all of the extended return piping to shorten up the distance between the rack & the ps pump in an effort to settle down any fluctuations in pressure. Doing #3 solved the issue with the shimmy. But that doesn't necessarily mean that doing #3 first could've/would've solved the issue.

^ Greg, what fluid are you making use of in the steering system? trans fluid or power steering fluid? Trans fluid is NOT the proper fluid for the system. It generally has a lower viscosity than power steering fluid, due to the friction modifiers can cause a whining in the pump, over time can ruin the seals in the rack, ps fluid is thicker & the system will function smoother. Seeing as the car is equipped with the 3.4 LQ1 is the original return line with the cooler extension in there? are you getting any sort of shimmy in the steering wheel when on center ( car is going straight)?

I finally got around to replacing my dead power door lock receiver. This is a real stinker of a job, there is a myriad of parts you have to remove enroute to getting at the small black box receiver which (on the coupes) is located next to the rear passengers side speaker behind the rear seatback. And you risk breaking any of them along the way. The manual advised that either the upper passengers side or the upper drivers side plastic trim that goes along the rear windows up the C pillar needs to be removed. Well, no way was I going to do that. I managed to get the rear seat to rear window trim panel off without removing those pieces. That was a bit of good luck, I guess. IMHO this was a ridiculous place to put this receiver. I decided to relocate the box to rest on top of the inner fender well in the trunk, using some gorilla tape to hold it on. All covered up by the interior trunk carpet. There is plenty of wire to make this happen, no cutting/splicing needed. Now, if that receiver croaks, this will be a 10 minute fix instead of a 3 hour headache. The only thing I broke was one push pin clip, and I am having a heck of a time finding even that. I programmed the transmitters and all is working just fine, mission accomplished.

Mine's still working, which is a good thing since I can't find one.:( Guess I'll keep my eyes open for a replacement as I'm sure I'll need one at some point. In the mean time I get to try and figure out why my top will go down but not up on it's own. lol

If you have a set of the ST springs you'll find the drop at the front is approx 1.5 inches using the original rubber hardware, I had a set of those sitting on the shelf for more than 10 years. I couldn't find any Intrax at the time I was looking for drop springs, last year I finally did the cars suspension, the ST are a linear rate spring like the OEM springs. In my case that is better for the car where clearance is concerned seeing as the tires outer corners are directly under the wheelwell lip, spring compression can't allow contact between the tire & the fender lip, the other 3 bodylines don't display this issue as the fenders cover the wheels entirely. They do rider firmer, but to me that's not a negative seeing as (in my mind) the oem ride is far too soft. The new rear spring is as the chart shows 330lbs. per inch spring rate, this firms up the rear, along with the custom alignment the car corners more exactly, flatter, considerably less understeer. The car doesn't *float* anymore.

Does anyone know if the 91-93 Z34's uses a speed sensor mounted on the steering racks? I know the GP and Cutlass did. It's part # 10096157/10204102 if they used them. Thank you.

It's a misconception that one or all need to *go to* Birchmount Spring here near to me in Toronto to get a replacement steel leaf spring for their car. Any spring shop can fab up a replacement multi leaf arrangement, the shop just needs to know what spring rate you want, how many leaves you require (the fewer the better ..more than 1 leaf), the total length of the leaves, the ride height you're looking for. What you see below is what is under my car...the shop I approached arched the 2 leaves to the right height I wanted, seeing as this is a transverse spring each leaf on each side has to be tweeked to ensure that each side of the car's ride height is identical.

Gotcha. Thank you for the accurate description. I was just making a guess. So...the Z34's do use this sensor as well then?

Great news!

Pics? Though Ive got a feeling I know the part being referred too. IIRC its called run channel if its the slotted piece the glass makes contact with on the sides of the "window regulator". It could "possibly" be some universal stuff that solidified over time that just looks like plastic. Hey is this at the front A pillar side of the glass near the mirrors or against the rear part of the door glass closer to the handle? I`m thinking of 2 different parts now.

Here are some 5 speed stats for you. I think finding the cleanest car body wise you can auto or 5 speed would be your best bet. even if it needs mechanical work, that can be done overtime.

Welcome! Great backstory, I think it captures why many of us still love these cars. So you covered a lot of ground I'll try and hit on some points, not to scare you off but to inform. If you encounter a 1991 with ABS, don't walk, RUN. That was the last year the old PowerMasterIII braking system was offered in these cars. It was troublesome 35 years ago and in my opinion totally unsafe to use today, and its a massive headache to get rid of. Just spend some time reading here and you'll see. 92/93 had a far more reliable however underwhelming performance of the Teves IV ABS System. the "high oil pressure" is likely nothing more then a bad sending unit, when they start to fail they will read all over the place, $20 for a new one no big deal A 1992 will have the highest possibility of being a manual, not sure on production numbers but 1992 was the most common year for manuals, again still very uncommon but highest chance. As far as automatic vs manual, I've done both flavours of the 3.4 DOHC, the 5 speed is more fun but its truly a hateful gearbox to live with on a daily basis. I'm good with it for a few days before I get sick of it, your mileage may vary. There is also the reoccurring problem of these cars in the 5 speed manual, no parts! you can get axle seals, clutch sets, sometimes clutch hydraulics and not much more. Shift cables are another issue they don't break often, and you can repair the main shift cable when the rubber bushings fail. But the cables themselves, they are unobtainable now. And lastly Timing belt components are getting harder to come across, specifically the timing belt tensioner actuator, its been discontinued by GM and you're basically scrounging old stock or used ones at this point. Literally no idea what I'll do next time I need one. Probably have to get creative. The video of that 91' you posted sounds in a pretty sorry state, could be something simple. Can't really tell from the video. Of the 2 you are looking at the white one with cloth looks better taken care of. That said, If you do want one try and hold out for a nice one, at least around me these cars are just gone from junkyards so replacing broken pieces could be a challenge.

I believe the 04's were more subject to cracking, so I would go with a newer year.

This one has your name al over it! Being California car it should be reall clean https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/290176733382939/?mibextid=6ojiHh

Yep

did you all still want a picture of it installed?

OK kiddies, like the title says, is it possible to use the entire front sub frame and suspension in to a 1.5 lumina? I measured the front upper strut mounting bolts and it looks like the pattern is the same.

Incase anyone searches and wants the answer to this.... Yes it possible to bolt a 2nd gen subframe to the 1st gen. However there is some Modification needed to the front mounting bolts and some spacers needed to lower the subframe height. Miko k did the swap into his old 96 cutlass. He detailed it in his thread in the members ride section.

Yes can be done. -3800 motor and trans from a w-body(mounts are different between the different chassis. Just makes it easier). -Inner tulip cv joint from Same trans out axle from 1g w -Wiring harness 98-99 Monte Carlo/lumina ltz, need to mod c100 conector but easy enough -downpipe from same monte/lumina -power steering lines from monte/lumina -heater core lines from Monte/lumina -rad and hoses from 3800 car Motor will drop right into the subframe and into the car no issues. You can use the 2g wiring but you're into more wiring of the c100 connector as they're completely different.

Gen1 control arms are bolted to the K frame, and our struts are martian. Swapping the Gen2 frame, doesn't that mean that the whole suspension has to be reworked? I remember Miko's car... that thing was all modded up.

You can bolt the 2nd gen subframe in a 1st gen w-body, I've done it... Suspension becomes a headache though...

I wonder if Jason still has that car. I loved it. I loved Josh's too though - I still have a ton of old emails from him back when I was thinking of doing the 5-speed swap. Such a good guy.

Aluminum subframe was 06+ only...

so will the Aluminum cradle fit gen 1 and 1.5 cars?

Actually, I have all the part #'s! Cutlass Supreme 88-94 FE3 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 88-89 FE1 = 26044830 (same as above) 89.5-91 FE1 = 26046146 (AC #36-9025) 92-96 FE1 = 26046144 (AC #36-9024) 95 3.4X FE3 = 26042018 95-96 3.1M NV7 (variable assist) 26047206 (AC #36-9042) 96 3.4X FE3 = 26047207 (AC #36-9043) 97 3.4X, 3.1M = 26055468 (AC #36-9062) 97 3.1M NV7 (variable assist) 26055475 (AC #36-9163) Lumina (didn't get as detailed on Lumina) 90-94 Z34, F41 = AC #36-9021 90-94 FE1 14" tires = 26046146 (AC #36-9025) 95-96 F41 = AC# 36-9023 95-96 FE1 = AC #36-9024 97 L82, LQ1 = 26055468 (AC #36-9062) 98-99 FE1 = 26055468 (AC #36-9062) 98 F41 = 26069922 (AC #36-9205) 99 F41 = 26069922 (AC #36-9205) Grand Prix 88 FE3 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 88 FE1 = 26024892 89 FE3 1st design = 26044829 (AC #36-9020) TGP, and others 89 FE3 2nd design = 26046139 (AC #36-9021) 89 FE1 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 90 FE1 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 90 FE3 = 26021781 1st design 90 FE3 = 26044830 2nd design (AC #36-9023) 90 FE3 = 26044829 (AC #36-9020) TGP??? 91 FE3 = 26044830, FE3 STE (AC #36-9023) 91 FE3 coupe = 26046139 (AC #36-9021) 91 FE1 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 91 FE3 3.1T = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 91 FE3 3.4X = 26046139 (AC #36-9021) 92 3.1T FE3 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 92-93 3.4X 26046139 (AC #36-9021) 92-93 FE1, FE3, 3.1T = AC #36-9023 94-96 3.1M, FE3 = 26044830 (AC #36-9023) 94-95 3.4X = 26046139 (AC #36-9021) 94 FE1 = 26046144 (AC #36-9024) 95 3.4X, FE3 = 26042018 95-96 FE1 = 26046144 (AC #36-9024) 95 3.4X, FE3, NV7 (variable assist) = 26047207 (AC #36-9043) 96 FE1 = 26046144 (AC #36-9024) 96 3.4X FE3 26047207 (AC #36-9043) I didn't get any rack part #'s for Regal, but I assume it wouldn't be likely to have a quick ratio rack. It looks like the better rack available for Cutlass Supreme FE3 is the same as the base model FE1 rack used in Grand Prix. It's pretty simple until 94+ when GM used many different racks for different engines and different years. I focused more detail on GP racks, because they obviously have the more performance-oriented rack selection. I know the TGP has a very quick ratio rack (36-9020) but I wonder how it compares to 36-9021. Also I wonder if any of the newer variable assist racks are quick ratio or not.