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A friend of mine bought this off of Ebay and wanted to share it with everyone. Pretty cool historical information of the car's development.

Super stoked for this one! Just picked up this 93 tonight. One owner Michigan car! Not a spec of rust accept for around the windshield trim! Undercarriage looks virtually new! Has been sitting since 19, so some gremlins to work through! New top, but not a documented time of replacement. Has the usual oil leaks etc, and a horn / headlamp issue. But I am looking forward to getting acquainted with it! I think it’ll be a good pairing for my 95 as well.

Actually its been holding up great. I've got over 20k miles on the swap now over 2 years. Nothing major, a couple ripped cv boots which may be because they were junkyard sourced. I highly recommend adding a HTOB spacer. ZZP sells them for around $50. Sits behind the HTOB and moves it closer to the clutch by 1/4" for earlier engagement and longer life. Aside from engineering the trans mount, the hardest part is getting the clutch pedal mounted and situated. The pedal arm needs to be cut & welded into proper position as well. As far as the mount, the low-profile mount I fabbed up works great. Only modification I made was adding rubber bushings under the nuts at the bottom to further insulate the mount from the frame. On an aluminum subframe, it might have to be done a bit different. Might be able to drill two holes and bolt it in the same way, but I haven't been hands-on with an 04+ subframe so I can't say for sure. I'm not a fan of the modified 4T65E bracket method that requires tubular control arms as the mount sits outside the frame. An extra $650 that could be spent elsewhere. There really are half a dozen ways you could fab up a mount but I can say for sure the one I made does the job. 3/16 steel plate holds up well so far. I have also just finished taking the time to document the changes to the tune that are highly recommended for a manual swap: Idle speeds in-gear changed to match P/N as its going to be wired to be in D at all times now. ( I actually added a toggle switch to change between forcing it in D or P, since P is needed for a crank relearn procedure if you need it) DTC codes changed And finally zeroing out all the auto trans stuff:

It's been a while since I've logged in. I was more of a lurker back in those days... But I'm glad to see the forum is still up and operating!! Happy New Year Everyone!!

x2 on that, but, IMHO I wish they could have made the 2 doors with door handles in the door and not in the B-Pillar. These handles are nothing but headaches. And, the Verts would not have needed a basket handle (?) I'm needing to replace my LH Door handle. Again.

For once I condone a thread being resurrected 22 years after the fact.

It took me 22 years but I finally did do that manual swap

Here's a picture from back when the black car was in better days.

I'll have to find some pictures. Best ones I have are from 10+ years ago when the black one was in far better shape. Long story short, engine blew up, it sat outside. Then I ended up with it and moved it to indoor storage but the time outside had already taken its toll. Right now its very dusty and sad looking and buried in the back of storage so its hard to even see it right now. Last couple weeks I've been daily driving my red one. Made me realize how much I've missed the turbo cars. I think technically speaking red/gray was the most rare color combo. If you'd have asked me years ago I'd have been on board with the gray interior all day long. Now I think the tan works with the gold wheels and badging. I'm torn because the chassis of the black car IS that much better. But I've put insane amounts of work into making the red one as good as it presently is. Not sure if rarity of the color combos really moves me like it would used to. Maybe I can use that to my advantage to get more money out of the black one. Some guy on FB wanted to buy both but wanted to pay a very small sum for them. I dono I think they tend to wear arrest me red better then black. I think whatever happens the sale of one and a bunch of parts will fund the restore of the other. I'm still very much torn as the black one when it was running really drove fantastically. I'm just rambling at this point.

If you like the red, keep the red one. It will be easier. I would go the torturous route because I would want the black/gray cloth one. That is what I want if I can find one. Or maybe the red one and swap to the gray cloth.

For me, definitely the Black one. It being Black...and having Medium Slate Gray cloth, that is uber rare in the TGP World. You know me, rarity is a big deal and that one is definitely incredibly rare and sought after. I firmly believe that even though it's not in the better shape, you'll regret selling it later.

Well, from where I stand I would probably look for a 3400 LA1 shortblock, plunk the T-code heads & intake down onto it, & install a custom 3400 T-code engine into the car. I personally wouldn't waste my money on just a T code 3.1

All that work and I ended up dropping and breaking that vent awhile back. Thanks to an extremely generous member here I have a replacement vent. I keep the pair inside packed in a box so I can`t break them without effort. Had an idea and went with it in securing the drip pans and screens. Using some things I had on hand I came up with some brackets that can be removed easily for cleaning or paint. I don't know if it helped or not, but I also used a small wire brush to clean out the posts and put a few drops of silicone lube in them before barely snugging up the mounting screws. Everything holds tight and secure when the hood is open and closed and looks good from the top, underneath maybe different but each side is mirrored to the other to the 1/16" with the exact same parts. It could look better with fabbed up metal stock instead, but the idea works and can be covered with some insulation in the future. It really doesnt look half bad with just the screens and pans, and Ive not even painted those yet. Seems like it could match the front grilles...

My nephew and took her out last night and he's working on making content for the interwebz. A few of the better pics he took at the same place I took the convertible years ago. Unfortunately the P side rear caliper seized up and cooked the nearby rubber parts. That and most of the rear suspension is crispy from being up in Jersey so shes parked for now while the parts roll in.

It worked! Thanks for all the pointers. All I did was reflow the old solder so I left the rear deck cover off for now, the cover was very sun damaged anyway. But at least I have a working key fob now. IMG_7474.mov

Seven years later I finally got to it. Life gets in the way sometimes. It was a splice gone bad on the engine side, orange wire C461. DIC and scan data restored.

She dont look like much kid but she's got it where it counts...

Update. the 9.6121 pads work perfectly. I sprayed them down with silicone during install and not a peep or a squeak out of anything.

That's OEM m'boy.....no muffler shop involved, the GT coupes that were fitted with the dual exhaust, & the STE's were fitted with that small left side muffler. It was done that way to get needed clearance under the floorpan, you notice that the left side floorpan has no heatshield in place to protect the fuel filler hose & the evap lines, but the right side does have a heatshield. That small muffler is fitted with a strap-on flimsy heat deflector that does literally nothing. If you toss the original rusted out mufflers don't toss the trumpets, keep them, those are near to the point of being unobtanium.

Also of note it looks like this car has the half pop up headlights that this clay model had as well, though it looks like they are taped shut possibly? Ignore the filename, definitely not from 1988.

The automotive news show motorweek holds marathons for their older seasons on Youtube and one of the episodes they played had this spy shot of a Grand Prix prototype that I haven't seen anywhere else. I wonder if they still have the picture in their archives.

Alright I got it all put back together and it works great now! I used a combination of a plastic welder and jb weld to reattach the plastic guide and it seemed to work great, it was very sturdy. The door trim and weatherstripping wasn’t too bad to deal with. It’s all screws and metal clips. Some stuff has double sided foam tape/pads but it was no issue. Hope some of this info helps. IMG_7911.mov

Finally got around to starting on this project again. The window motor turned out to be really easy. Thanks jiggity for the pointers! Just ignore the shawty grinder job. I’ll paint over it so it doesn’t rust. Now I’ve decided I want to try and fix this guide for the glass. I bought the car with this piece already broken and I suspect this is what caused the original window motor to fail. I super glued it for now but I have access to a plastic welder. I’m assuming a junkyard is the only option for replacing these. Removing the glass was a little more difficult but nothing too crazy, I made sure to be really careful with the trim and metal clips. Luckily everything is still intact. Gonna work on it some more tomorrow and see what happens.

Thank You Needed a win, its been awhile.

That's impressive for a MI car. It must have not have been driven in the winter.

My 93 STE and 96 Cutlass sedan don't have the big rubber springs...but DO have sway bars. But...my 91 International has BOTH. Is that what you're referring too? Here's the STE. And then the International.

Very interesting, you have both a rear sway bar and the auxiliary springs. I always thought it was one or the other. Very nice find!

Should be 2 or 3 bolts on the seat bottom facing the rear of the front seats. Remove the bottom seat cushion and then you will see the bolts that hold the back seat cushion on.

Saesons greettings all! A fellow member recommended this group so I just joined. Sorry I didn't know about the W-Body group in past years...might have saved me some headaches in repairs, LOL My first w-body was a '91 Grand Prix SE that I got in 1997. It served me well over the years, till I sold it in 2003 and got a '95 GP SE with the B4U package. I'd still be driving it today if the rear suspension/frame hadn't rotted away due to that horrible brine/salt they put on the roads here. Who knows, maybe I'll get another GP someday...I really enjoyed driving that car!

How long has it been since the strut bearings were lubricated or replaced?

Ended up being a bad fuel pump as a result of a plugged return line, which also killed the fpr, thanks though everyone!

If you care about originality and how the motor looks to be correct for a 1991 LQ1 car, you would want to stay within the 91-92 model year. You can use a 93 motor as well but the dipstick and tube is the only part that is a lot of work to swap over. 1991-1992 Lumina Z34, (standard with the LQ1). 1992 Lumina Euro 3.4, (standard with the LQ1). 1991-1992 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP, (standard with the LQ1). SE, GT, STE trim, (when optioned with the LQ1). 1991-1992 Cutlass Supreme coupe or sedan, (when optioned with the LQ1). ANY W body that has an X in the 8th place of the VIN will have the LQ1. Now...if you don't care about how correct the motor looks in the engine bay, you can go outside the 91-93 year range. The 94-95 motors will work but you would have to do some swapping over of parts to make it look correct. Some things are easy, some are not. The 96-97 LQ1's are dramatically different in appearance and functionality/engineering. They will get you more power but again, lots of internal and mechanical differences. These motors are also interference compared to the NON interference motors from 91-95. If you have any other questions, please ask us or you can PM me personally as I've gone in depth with these motors during my cars restoration efforts.

Where just the rears are concerned...... If one wishes to do this one will also need the later design rotors as well (larger diameter), along with the entire parking brake system, that includes the pedal assembly. Where the fronts are concerned one will need the 95-96 front struts that provide for the larger diameter rotors. The calipers remain the same.

Well..... one doesn't want anything that is aluminized, at the very least 409 stainless, you might look thru Walker's Quiet-Flow SS series, their recent all stainless lineup may include something close to the original mufflers. Consider that you may end up going to a pair of 4 1/2x9 3/4" 14"shell mufflers.......the left side IS a 12" shorty while the right should be a 14", the right IS a 7x9 shell.