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Yeah for sure, the fronts in a FWD car have the benefit of the heavy engine providing force to keep the wheels on the road, and hopefully going straight. The rear, which has relatively little weight applied, relies heavily on the tread of the tire in lieu of the weight. Sure, having the 'better' tires on the front might make for better starting out on ice, but that's about the only benefit, and once you're up to speed, lateral stability is far more important. My long drive on the spare was in dry summer conditions on a divided highway at lower speeds. If it were winter, on a single lane highway, I may very well have found the closest small town and stayed the night.

Again, different schools of thought apply. It's the same reason why many tire places will not put a set of two new tires on the front. Oversteer potential. We see it all the time here. It doesn't take much of a corner, just a slightly crappier set on the back with the right conditions (rain or snow) and you find yourself turned around in a hurry, especially in cars with no stability control - i.e. pretty much all W's. I'm not saying you're wrong about the donut being better for you specifically or for the car on the back, but the argument can be made the other way around. For equally sized tires, no argument can be made for putting the better ones on the front.

I've got a 95 vert that has leaked, and is leaking, a number of places as well. I have some ideas what may be happening but I don't have my vert with me today to double-check. When you close the latch, it is supposed to draw everything up tight. The bottom hook that swings into the header when you close the latch is threaded, so I think that you can thread the hook in to the top a little more, and then when the latch is closed it might draw everything up tighter? If that doesn't work, you could do a quick test and put a sleeve of some sort (hollow metal/plastic piece) over the pin so it fits into the head opening tightly, as it would if you had a pin cup. That may help draw that corner of the top to the header a little tighter, but I'm not sure without trying it. Or you could add a strip of thin weatherstripping on top of the existing header seal to create a better seal against the header. That may create new problems at the corners, though, as they won't fit the same way. Also, I think the seal on the side of the windshield is supposed to allow water to drain down through it, but if the opening at the top of it is blocked then that water will go somewhere else. On my car, since I replaced the top, things don't align well at that corner but most of my overflow water runs down the outside of my side window. Note that I said "most", not "all". Anyway, I'm very interested in how you fix your leak, as I am always fighting leaks. In the fall/winter/spring I keep a roll of paper towels in the back seat and a couple towels in the rear footwells to help clean up the leaked water.

Yes, for sure, I have also discovered this with my 91 CS coupe as well. I have also learned from others here, getting into the habit of not using the handle to pull the door open but using my left hand (I'm right handed) to reach up and pull the door open at the top of the door frame. Good to know about the A1 units, thanks!

Link is long dead. You can try this: https://web.archive.org/web/20051106143344/http://members.aol.com/regal231/wtpump.htm No images. Another side effect of "free" pages and places not willing to host them anymore!