scorpion_x9 Posted May 17, 2004 Report Share Posted May 17, 2004 Well, I went to my bank which is a bout 20-30mi from where I live, and when I went to leave my car started and then proceeded to sputter and stall. (No more gas in the tank) Fortunately someone was kind enough help me out with 5 gallons of gas. (I hope it wasn't mixed with oil or something! :verymad: ) After that I could start it up and it ran fine, drove it home and when I came back out to start it up, it would sputter and die. Right now it won't start or sputter at all. I know it wouldn't guzzle 5 gallons of gas that quick. So I remember my friend had a 96 TA that did the same exact thing and the fuel pump went out. I don't hear the fuel pump kick on when I turn the key to "ON" and I used the test wire under then hood too, and no pressure. I just need a few more opinions on this, before I try to drop the tank and replace it. Thanx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted May 17, 2004 Report Share Posted May 17, 2004 Check the fuel pump relay before you drop the tank. The one on my wife's 96 Loomie was acting up last summer. It is under hood in the passenger side fuse block. Notice how tiny it is. Sand off the contacts and bend them outward a bit so it makes better contact. Solved the problem for me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canada Posted May 17, 2004 Report Share Posted May 17, 2004 Check the relay.......you may also want to crack the line before and after the filter to make sure the filter isn't plugged with gook after the tank was ran down. I've seen it happen before. But most likely the pump is done......running below 1/4 of a tank isn't good for the pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlsp Posted May 18, 2004 Report Share Posted May 18, 2004 i run down to 1/8 of a tank and my pump makes a humming noise i stay above a 1/4 of a tank its fine :? but no noise its either the relay or the pump went out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorpion_x9 Posted May 18, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2004 Check the relay.......you may also want to crack the line before and after the filter to make sure the filter isn't plugged with gook after the tank was ran down. I've seen it happen before. But most likely the pump is done......running below 1/4 of a tank isn't good for the pump. I'd check the line before the fuel filter but I tried changing it once and it just would not unscrew from the filter. I've used ALOT of rust eater on that thing and it still would not budge. But I think the tank side tube is the quick release one, I hope. I have to see if I can manually jump the fuel pump on without the relay in, I tried it without the keys in the igition, so I have to try it again with the keys in the ON position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canada Posted May 18, 2004 Report Share Posted May 18, 2004 That should be a constant 12 volts sent to the relay on the high side...........your pump is done then. The line on my 91 a normal flare and nut........I had a huge hole in the braided line before the filter. Maybe yours is different.......either way, it looks like your tank is getting dropped......might as well do it then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorpion_x9 Posted May 19, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2004 OK, I got home from work and my car started right up. I went to the gas station, which is a about 3mi away, and the engine temp was at normal operating temperature. I shut it off at the pump and start filling my tank. I get in my car to start it, and it sputters and dies again. I pulled the plug on the TPS and the IAC. It will run with the both of them unplugged, but when you open the throttle, it will stall. (I have done that before and it idled really high and would drive, when it worked) Either my MAP sensor is gone or my fuel pump is dying, from what I can tell. Something's pointing me to the fuel pump, but I also thought that it may be and alternator issue, but I highly doubt it. I can yank it off and get a free replacement no problem, so I guess it's worth a try, and it's easy to replace anyway. edit: When I had the TPS and the IAC unplugged it would run but not very pretty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorpion_x9 Posted May 19, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2004 :sigh: Well, I guess I'm on my own now. Thanks for the input everyone. Later. 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonyman87 Posted May 20, 2004 Report Share Posted May 20, 2004 when i pulled the IAC but TPS was still on i tried to start it and it fell flat on its face and you can hear the motor sucking air threw the IAC hole. I put it back in and it started right up. there is a test for your MAP sensor in the Chilton manual step 1: Backprobe with a high impedance voltmeter between MAF sensor terminals C and B maf chart ______ |Sensor| | MAF | --------- |C|B|A| <-- plugin and wire labels C = PNK 439 goes to 15amp ECM ING Fuse B = BLK/WHT 451 is the Ground A = YEL 492 goes to PCM signal ~ 5 volts Step 2: With the ignition ON engine off, verify that battery voltage is present. Step 3: If the voltage is not as specified, either the wiring to the MAF sensor, fuse or the ECM may be fulty. Correct any wiring or ECM faults befor continuing the test. Step 4. Disconnect the voltmeter and backbrobe with a frequency meter between MAF sensor and terminals A and B. Step 5. Start the engine and wait until it reaches normal idle speed and verify that the MAF sensor output is Approximatley 2000hz Step 6. Slowly rais engine speed up to maximum recommended rpm and verify that the MAF sensor output rises smoothly to approximatly 8000Hz. Step 7. If MAF sensor output is not as specified the sensor may be faulty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonyman87 Posted May 20, 2004 Report Share Posted May 20, 2004 :sigh: Well, I guess I'm on my own now. Thanks for the input everyone. Later. 8) 1 more thing to reset your AIC turn the car on engine off for 5 seconds turn it off for 10.. see if that helps.. i think that has to be done every time you unplug it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canada Posted May 20, 2004 Report Share Posted May 20, 2004 If your car runs.......then you have fuel......maybe the check valve is bad and you are getting an extended crank time, but its for surely working if you are getting fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorpion_x9 Posted May 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2004 I forgot to add something, I think it was my alternator that had been part of the problem. When I drove it home from the gas station, the "No Charge/Low Voltage" light came on. So I got a replacement, and it seemed to fix it. Kinda weird but I'm gonna check my sensors just in case. Thanks again. 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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