musthavemuzk Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 93 GP LE 3.1 while at the dealer i swore i pulled a 13 code. decided to check today to make sure before i bought the parts. but today i pulled a 23 and a 43. 23 is easy MAT/IAT sensor less than 10 bux and if needed i can pull off of cutlass for now 43 is not so easy. Knock sensor or MEM-CAL. knock sensor ranges from 35-50 online new. no clue on MEM-CAL though. could also be the ECM or mayb one of the many other sensors. no clue on where the knock sensor is at to change it though on tight funds so which would you do first? i would like to do the MEM-CAL first as it might solve all, but not sure. still plan on plugs wires and fuel filter too. any other help appreciated Monty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 check the wires for the MAT/IAT first. Ive had mine disconnected for various reasons and forgot to plug it back in. Knock sensor is on the block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musthavemuzk Posted March 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 what am i looking for? broke wires or pulled lose from connectors or what? thanx Robby Monty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 anything really. If they are fine, Id swap memcals with a known good one to make sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musthavemuzk Posted March 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 knock sensor front or back of block? high low or what? i did not see any pics in the haynes manual Monty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 knock sensor front or back of block?high low or what? i did not see any pics in the haynes manual Monty should be back of block above the crank sensor near where the head bolts on. (I hope I remembered that right) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musthavemuzk Posted March 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 cool. am i correct in saying that not all mem-cals are the same? they are set up for dif engines and trannys right? any idea on cost at a yard? if i knew someone with a 93 GP LE 3.1 around me i could ask to borrow theirs but i do not. Monty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 Yes, mem-cals are different for different engine/tranny combos. I'd try to steal one at a yard first, lolol. I dont know what it would cost, but since it a 93, you'd need to find one from a 93 with the same motor/tranny since in 93 they went to the 4T60E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musthavemuzk Posted March 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 hmmm might be able to borrow from the yard but not sure how muddy it is in the local one. they tend to close it when it is muddy. so no one gets hurt and they are held accountable. but i can check as it might work. to get the right one i would need to number code from the mem-cal? or can i guess by checking the cluster for gear options and underhood for engine? thank you Robby. Monty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 Every W-body with a code 43 that I've known of the knock sensor is the bad part. I had the same code and I replaced the knock sensor, its right above the trans, above the oilpan on the firewall side of the block. So I would just change the sensor first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 Every W-body with a code 43 that I've known of the knock sensor is the bad part. I had the same code and I replaced the knock sensor, its right above the trans, above the oilpan on the firewall side of the block. So I would just change the sensor first. Ive seen a knock sensor code get thrown and the cause was a bad ECM. A mem-cal swap is much easier than a knock sensor change. Yeah, just look for a 93, check the 10th digit of then VIN, should be a P for 93, then look at the 8th digit of the VIN, should be a T for 3.1L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 Yeah, well at least on the 5speed its easy . Like I said I doubt that its the mem-cal, I'm not saying it can't be just betting that it isn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalized Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 as far as the knock sensor goes, my car ran the code for it and it was because of the connecter rotting away and it simply wasnt hooked up, i have heard this happens quite often, its on the back of the motor on the pass. side, rock the motor forward and you should see it, i would look to see if it is unplugged before doing anything else, just my two cents...hope this helps, let me know, Regalized Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bolt_Crank Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 Every W-body with a code 43 that I've known of the knock sensor is the bad part. I had the same code and I replaced the knock sensor, its right above the trans, above the oilpan on the firewall side of the block. So I would just change the sensor first. my code 43 went away after I ran 1 tank of 89 octane through it.... it doesn't do it anymore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musthavemuzk Posted March 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 interesting ideas guys. i thank you so much for the input. guess i will go downstairs and look before i go spending any money. hate to rock it forward to check the sensor but if it saves me some cash it is worth at least a look. it is 3:55 now and yard closes at 5:30 so i have plenty of time to look before i have to get to the yard. Monty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musthavemuzk Posted March 13, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2004 finally able to tear into this tonight. rocked motor forward and felt for things. removed alt to make it easier to get in there. the CPS seemed to be fine by feel. then we felt something that did not seem right. but not sure what it was. so we decided to remove it and go from there. guessing it was the knock sensor as it was close to the CPS, but since there were no pics of the knock sensor in the haynes manual it was tough to say at this point. upon removing it it broke more than it was. guessing it was the knock sensor i headed to the parts store with part in hand. on a side note i fell in love on the way to the parts store. got ot borrow my friends wifes 03 GPGT. heavenly. but back to the story at hand looking at new part it was confirmed it was the knock sensor. put it back in and all back together and cleared the codes. she started right up with no codes. YEAH idles with a touch of roughness. i think i might need to to TPS though or something. slight throttle it is fine but the more you press the throttle the rougher it gets til a point. then it is fair. so this makes me think TPS. any other feedback would be great on this. gotta give thanx to Adam for letting me use his garage as well as his help tonight. not to forget the people from W-body THANK YOU AGAIN. Monty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted March 13, 2004 Report Share Posted March 13, 2004 The most common symptom of a bad TPS is this. While at a stop sign, it idling, the light turns green and you hit the gas.......does it bog for like half a second then catch up? If so, I'd say definitely bad TPS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musthavemuzk Posted March 13, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2004 most definitely does the bog thing from stop as you described. do i have to remove the TB to change the TPS? looks like i might have to, but i have not looked that close at the screw position on the TPS. thanx again Monty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted March 13, 2004 Report Share Posted March 13, 2004 most definitely does the bog thing from stop as you described. do i have to remove the TB to change the TPS? looks like i might have to, but i have not looked that close at the screw position on the TPS. thanx again Monty Hmmm.....that is a good question, lol I know it would be easier with the TB off, but when I changed mine, I already was having to take the whole top end apart. Even if you have to take the TB, as yuo know, its very easy, and are two TPS screws, IIRC, torx bits more than likely. Have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musthavemuzk Posted March 13, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2004 well if i make it to checker auto before Justin gets off of work he said if things permitting he would give it a drive and then throw it on the scanner and see what it comes of that. but will prolly do the TPS Justin goes by supremestyle21 on here. i think that is his username. woke up this AM and was lazy. just getting around to doing something now Monty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musthavemuzk Posted March 16, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2004 well i missed Justin, but he was in town yesterday and gave me some of hsi time. unplugged the TPS and it ran like crap. so determined it was not the TPS. did an idle relearn and that helped a little bit. he said it sounds like it is missing. so today i did plugs and wires and did the idle relearn and that helped some, but still not right. i am comparing this to my 90 cutlass 3.1 it ran verry smooth and nice. till problems set in with head gasket. noticed that it ran smoothest in park at idle. while pressing the gas it accelerated smoothly while it park. once put in gear and accelerating it ran rough. not as bad as before but still not right. could this have something to do with the vacuum modulator thingy on the tranny? or other vacuum lines? thanx Monty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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