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easiest way to remove transmission?


Marcus18

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what do I gotta do?

I want to get this trans out and my other one in by the 14th as the local strip is holding drag racing and a burnout contest. so I figure I'll take some old tires out there put a MBC(to cut lag) on it and show them how a grand prix can smoke em.

 

marcus

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First of all, dont do burnouts with a FWD auto....you're asking for it to blow. Now, as for taking it out, the tranny has one mount on the driver's side, then unbolt it from the block and take out the axles and undo all linkage. Then the tranny should just fall out. Seems like nothing, but its a decent amount of work

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yeah I can only enter one event so I've decided on the drag racing instead. you don't have to drop the cradle? I can't see how it could come out without dropping it. I'll give it a shot though. already got it blocked up and tire off so I'm ready to start unbolting it.

 

thanks

 

 

marcus

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Then the tranny should just fall out.

 

After you drop the sub frame, and if you don't hold the motor up it might fall out. :(

 

There is one heck of a lot to get the tranny out and not for the faint of heart. Partial list.

 

Egr hose

Exhaust x over, back side, loosen front.

Support engine

power stering hoses and lines

Power stering chinch bolt at ujoint. VERY IMPORTANT

r/side axel to engine support

Trans cooler lines if you have one

Linkage and wires

Axles and wheels

Splash shields

Front motor mount nuts

Trans mount nuts

Cradle bolts 4

Support the cradle

Ball joint/joints. (brake line/lines) I the car is on a rack you can just take one side off and swing the entire cradle ass down out of the way. Otherwise you will have to drop the entire cradle assy and move it out of the way.

 

Flywheel cover.

 

Now you can start to unbolt the trans after you get the torque converter 3

bolts. I take the starter off to get to these. Mark the converter and flywheel to put them back in the same spot. (balance).

 

I am sure I missed a couple things. :roll:

 

You will need 2 3/4 dowels about a foot long to align the sub frame back to the body using the factory tooling holes.

 

Good luck it's quite a job. :)

 

Jud

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why don't you just pull the engine and tranmission together out the top? seems alot easier that way.

joshua

 

Sorry, Jud, I always forget about the subframe stuff

 

Yeah, Im with Josh....take them both out the top together, you dont have to drop the subframe then

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Don't be sorry Robby, it's not like i've never forgot anything. :lol: :lol: As for taking both out through the top I don't know if it can be done, never done it but would definitely be interested if it could be done as I plan to take both motor and trans out this summer. First gear is leaving me and I want to check the engine. Can't do the bottom route cause I can't get the car high enough. :(

 

Marcus are you going to reconsider?

 

Jud

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I've never pulled an engine, but have read much about it, and IIRC the PMIII will get in the way if you pull both engine and tranny out the top. You might be able to manuver it but just a warning.

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Guest TurboSedan

i've pulled my motor and trans together out the top 3 times now. the first time i did it i still had the automatic. it was a tight fit but you just gotta watch out for the transmission hitting the master cylinder as it comes up and out. on a TGP or any W-body with ABS, there is probably even less clearance, but if you have to remove the master cylinder that's easy. you would also probably have to remove the downpipe first; i'm not really sure. i always pull the wiring harness out with the engine - just disconnect it at the firewall and pop the fuse/relay panel out and leave everything connected to the engine. now would be a good time to re-route and re-loom everything.

 

you still need to undo the balljoints and take the axles out of course, but at least you don't have to mess with any of the steering and you can leave the subframe in place. besides that, i would rather bolt the tranny to the engine while they are both out of the car, instead of trying to do it in the small space of the engine compartment.

 

it's much easier to pull the engine & trans out together now that i have a manual (the 282 is MUCH smaller & lighter than a 4T60), and besides, i couldn't drop the tranny itself out of the bottom since it would be impossible since i have to stick the transmission input shaft into the clutch and align the splines.

joshua

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Guest TurboSedan
I've never pulled an engine, but have read much about it, and IIRC the PMIII will get in the way if you pull both engine and tranny out the top. You might be able to manuver it but just a warning.

 

yeah mine doesn't have ABS so i didn't have much problem with the brake system being in the way. i would think that removing the PMIII and/or the master cylinder would be easier than messing with the steering pinch bolt and removing the subframe tho.

joshua

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well so far I've:

taken one axle off

taken crossover/turbo out.

all intake parts are off to get easy access to top trans bolts

 

I really don't want to take the engine out as the wiring would be more work.

I'm stuffing a 4t60-e/hd in it so I guess I'll use my current converter with it to keep it balanced. how do you swing the cradle? leave one bolt in?

I currently have it sitting about two feet off the ground on blocks just behind the rear subframe bolts.

 

I'm going to pull the other axle and try disconnecting the steering.

 

 

 

marcus

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well it's out all of it. me and my dad dropped both engine and transmission out then lifted the car up and slid it out.

 

I'm trying to put a list together of things to do.

things that will be done for little $$$:

1) valve cover seals

2) relocate coils

3) repaint metal tubing

4) clean clean clean

 

 

things I want to do that cost alot of $$$:

1) if money permits a S-AFC2 I'll port the heads

2) turbo headers

3) all new injectors

4) alcohol injection kit

5) new downpipe

 

 

anything alse I should add to either list?

 

 

marcus

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