Steve Key Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 Ok new to the forum but not to the search feature. I can't seem to get a straight answer on gen 2 struts. I race this car on a 1/4 mile banked track and it rolls over on the right front sidewall bad. We are allowed 2 degrees of camber in the right front but the factory strut can't be modified. Will a second gen control arm and strut with knuckle work with my CV axle and subframe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 Shot answer... No. Gen 1 stuff is completely different from Gen 2. There is a mod you can do to the fronts that involves a shorter gen 2 lateral link, but you have to talk to Got2BGM about that. I can't find the link to his thread but he sells them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Key Posted April 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 I read on here somewhere that the subframes all interchanged from I think 90-01. I'm gonna guess this is incorrect too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 Is it possible to slot the strut tower holes that far? I've slotted mine for ease of alignment. I suppose you could keep slotting the holes toward the center of the car until you get there, or find out you can't get there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Key Posted April 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 Might get a little that way but there's not nearly enough room inside the tower to slide it far enough and technically that would be modified. This class requires as the holes to be unslotted unless factory and all parts must be able to be replaced from the local parts stores. On our Berettas we can lay the spindle in and weld it to the strut and be Ok I just can't cut and weld the behemoth of a knuckle this car has. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Key Posted April 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 I really wanna drop my 3x00 in here but it won't turn with the 3100 really don't need any more speed down the straights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 Nothing you can do on a first gen front end except get out the grinder. Would grinding the strut tower be allowed since it is the official alignment method per GM? They even sent out a template to dealers to aid with this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/KENT-MOORE-J-36892-A-STRUT-ALIGNMENT-TEMPLATE-W-CAR-/310297631290?hash=item483f2e1a3a&item=310297631290&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Key Posted April 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 Even grinding the tower won't give me the camber I need. We usually run 2 inches in the right front and can dive into the corners hard. This thing just pushes straight towards the wall if I don't let out and slam on the brakes to slow it down then I get drove around. I really like the car and it kills down the straights but I don't like neons driving around me like I'm parked lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 Makes sense, I don't know how much the top would have to move to make 2 degrees. I can see where the spring would hit the inside the tower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted May 2, 2015 Report Share Posted May 2, 2015 You are talking about the front, correct???? There is an aftermarket alignment kit that is basically a giant shim that sits between the wheel bearing and the spindle. I did not like them and removed them from my 96 GP. That, plus realigning it's frame fixed the issue. here it is: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-k6481?seid=srese1&gclid=CN6_xYWGosUCFeZj7AodNjAA1A If you are looking for a simple more cost effective mod, calculate the thickness you need and add washers between the spindle and the wheel bearing to see if you get your desired effect. You could also see if shifting your frame to the passenger side is possible! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Key Posted May 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2015 We're actually gonna try the washers and see how much we can get. Got rained out last week but looks good for tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted May 2, 2015 Report Share Posted May 2, 2015 If you're going to be attempting changes to the camber... pick yourself up one of these camber gauges, it will come in very useful when checking the before & after settings. clamp it to the disc at 12 o'clock before and lock it into place to 0 degrees and then check the difference after you adjusted the angle, the factory camber is .75 degree positive, even one degree movement to negative .25 will make a difference where *plowing* is concerned. Adjust to to 1 degree negative and you'll feel the difference in the steering, that *dead* feel will be lessened quite a bit, the steering will be more responsive http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.gunson.co.uk/news/lg/77066_INSITU.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.gunson.co.uk/news.aspx?article%3D451&h=433&w=650&tbnid=XC3pzWuTzisRWM:&zoom=1&docid=CF1gp61XXjyakM&ei=GaNEVeDqGMyfgwTz7oDoCw&tbm=isch&client=palemoon&ved=0CCkQMygMMAw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Key Posted May 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2015 Yeah we got about a degree and a half out of it so we shall see what she does tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted May 2, 2015 Report Share Posted May 2, 2015 (edited) Keep in mind as well that you will toe out the wheels with negative camber induced by using shims in behind the hubs. You may have to compensate the toe angle. My bad.....disregard, one is not moving the strut at all, just the wheel bearing assuming that both shims at the bottom are the same thickness. Edited May 2, 2015 by 55trucker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Key Posted May 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2015 Yeah we always check the toe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Key Posted May 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2015 Ok so spacing the wheel bearing worked good but... now the back end is sooo loose its almost undriveable. Any ideas guys? Soon as I let off the gas in the straights she starts to come around and that's bad in traffic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted May 4, 2015 Report Share Posted May 4, 2015 Assuming you haven't done so... Stiffer springs to keep the front end from diving, as soon as you start to brake the front end is doing so making the rear end light, not much you can do to the rear leaf because of what it is unless you want to go to coilovers, poly bushings around the anti swaybar to limit roll, shocks...not much one can do there as there are not performance related items for these cars, related to springs...lower the car altogether with firmer springs, front to rear weight ratio is something in the neighborhood 65 front 35 rear. In lou of all that you can adjust the camber of the rear wheels as well, try dialing in a little more negative camber to get the rear tires to keep the flat area on the ground in the corners. what you do to one end you have to do to the other end as well. What are you using for tires? that will make a difference...road going 60 series *S* or *T* or a better handling lower profile *V* or *Z* track tire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Key Posted May 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2015 Yeah we've done everything we can think of she just seems way too light in the back. I'm honestly thinking about pulling the motor and.wiring harness and stuffing it into my old Beretta at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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