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Found 171 results

  1. I have a question, if you know the origin of the photos of the 1988 pacecar in a museum, the ones where the car is behind a velvet barricade, and with an engine on display. Basically, where was this photo taken?????? who took it? I visited (finally!) the Indianapolis Motor speedway...... and went to look at the photo archives for 1988. so far..... here's what I learned: 1988 pace car replica convertibles were used as parade cars. 1988 coupes were also used as parade cars... and at least some of these had sunroofs! calais coupes were also used as parade cars in 88, painted in the 88 pacecar scheme, and not the 86 paint. JIM DAVIS rode in the 49 pace car. In the prior pictures I have seen, I have isolated only two real pace cars. 1 with race lighting, with HUD, with removal rollbar, with leather interior, WITH HOOD VENTS! with Quad 4 1 withOUT race lighting, withOUT HUD, with removal rollbar, with leather interior, without Hood vents, with Quad 4. almost ALL publicity shots are of the non-race ready vert. in the publicity packet that comes with the 50 pacecars (maybe all 250, or ?) is a picture showing two verts under construction whose caption implies that they were the only two cars produced to be real pacecars. so far the cars I have seen from the photo archives are consistent with these two, However, the archives guy said that typically they have 3 ready pacecars. the archive guy showed me a picture of a prior year HURST OLDS pacecars.... with EVERY Hurst Olds pacecar (including parade replicas) in a formation on the track. If I dig... and go through a stack of proofs that would sit 6 feet tall... I am hoping to locate a similar 88 image.
  2. I have a 93 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible that has the type of steering wheel that contains the radio and climate controll functions. The horn pads on these types of steering wheels alre well known to wear out and the horn will start beeping even when your not hitting the horn button. Most people just pull the fuse and that's it. Well, I have found a solution to this problem. The problem is that in between the horn contacts on both the left and right side of the steering wheel have this piece of material which is like a cardboard like material which compresses and literally crumbles away. When this happens, the horn contacts come in contact with one another and as a result, the horn starts beeping on its own. Well here is the fix... 1) Remove the horn pad 2) Pull back the left and right side of steering cover 3) Bend the contact pins straight and remove contacts 4) Go to your parts store and by a cork gasket making material. The type you would make your own gaskets out of 5) Trace your old pad onto the cork material and cut out 6) Reinstall the contact, contact cover, and horn pad Its a perfect fix. If you have any more questions let me know. I can also email pictures as well
  3. So I have been trying to trace a front end clunk ever since I've had my 99 Regal and have yet to be successful at all. I realize that this is a common problem with a lot of 2nd gens so I'm starting a poll to see what the most common cause of clunking was. It seems like it does it whenever the car is cornering and it hits a bump or something. It's more noticeable when the car has more than just one person in it. It is driving me insane!!! So far I have replaced: -outer tie rod ends -all 4 struts, springs, and mounts -all 4 motor mounts -both front control arms with new ball joints and bushings. Did this twice, first with Moog, then with ACDelco parts thinking this was the culprit. -front sway bar with 34mm bar and polyurethane bushings. I have also greased the Intermediate Steering Shaft(ISS) multiple times because it seemed to help the first time. I cheaped out on the tie rods last time so now the next thing I'm gonna do is replace all 4 tie rods with Moog problem solvers and hopefully they'll last the rest of the life of the car. I'm contemplating replacing the subframe with an aluminum subframe and new subframe bushings. I'm also considering replacing the steering rack while I'm at it and switching out the ISS for a junkyard shaft. Any ideas? If you had this problem on your car and fixed it, please vote what the cause was.
  4. Ok new to the forum but not to the search feature. I can't seem to get a straight answer on gen 2 struts. I race this car on a 1/4 mile banked track and it rolls over on the right front sidewall bad. We are allowed 2 degrees of camber in the right front but the factory strut can't be modified. Will a second gen control arm and strut with knuckle work with my CV axle and subframe?
  5. I have gain access to my Grandfather's storage units and found a lot of rare W Car items...1989 FE3 Phantom(hit hard on right front side), 1994 Cutlass Supreme Convertible, & many parts from his 1988 indy 500 convertible pace car (which was recalled back then). There are SO many things from the 1988 indy 500 race in there..."WE ARE GOING TO BUILD A VERY SPECIAL TRIBUTE CAR FOR HIM WITH ALL OF THE BEST PIECES OF THESE CARS ON 1 OLDS PLATFORM' stay tuned and we will appreciate your advice and expertise on this HEARTFELT build!!! any wisdom or knowledge you have on these cars will be cherished by Our Family to help in this... SIGNED, "The Grandpa Jimenez Grandchildren"
  6. Hey guys, a few of the local members are having a grudge match/ meet and greet down at the local track on the 25 of this month. some will be racing others will just be there to watch. all are welcome.
  8. I just wanted to say I love my LQ1. I know it's a pain to work on at times, but it's so worth it. The way that thing pulls on the top end, and the sound it makes, it's like heaven. I've had more than my fair share of 2.8's and 3.1's, and even a Quad4 Beretta GTZ, but the engine in my Cutlass is easily the most potent I've ever experienced. Yes, it may not have all the power in the world, but the RPM band is great. From my experience most 2.8, 3.1, and 3400 run out of breath above 4500, and the LQ1 is still screaming at 6500. It just keeps winding up. I get such pleasure with the top down on a back road to just stomp it and let it eat. Turning out on a back road on an on ramp is just an excuse to lay into it. I've had it about 3 years now, and I've done all the fun stuff to it. It's had a new timing belt, idlers, tensioner, actuator, plugs, wires, oil pump drive o ring. Yes, I cussed at times, but it runs like a champ. Super smooth down low, but get her above 3500, and it's like you flick a switch and it's a race to red line. Gotta be one of the best engines ever..
  9. Hello all, Just purchased one of these today, will get pics up later. She isnt real pretty at the moment, my plans are just to drive it and semi-restore it. No intentions of modding, just TLC. I was hoping some of you had some good links for parts and or vendors of this car? Its missing pieces here and there that I would like to get, unfourtunately I will probably be hitting junk yards... Little about me, I have owned a 2002 GTP for several years now. It is my dedicated race car and runs high twelves, not super impressive seeing what they do with the car now. But hey, its my toy!
  10. Hey guys, the Cutlass is running great! Needs a new top and other odds and ends still, but that's another story. My problem here is I have no tachometer reading! Just sits at zero the entire time. I've tried 3 different clusters. All the same story. The needle does move slightly upward so it's pointing DIRECTLY at zero when turned on, but that's it. HP Tuners registers the RPM signal. The cluster connector seems to be okay. I've attached the wiring diagrams for the gauge cluster. I can test for voltage or resistance at the connector, but have no idea what I should be looking for! I'm guessing I'm going to have to crack open the C100 connector and make sure it's all there. The engine wiring harness is from a 99 Lumina LTZ if that matters at all. Thanks in advance for any help, it's driving me crazy not having a tach!!! instrument-cluster-2-of-2.pdf -Tim instrument-cluster-1-of-2.pdf
  11. ok so im doing a meet in the wisconsin dells may 16th, 17th and 18th. for those who dont know about the dells its the waterpark capital of the world. its 3 towns that make up the area. tons of things to do lots of hotels. im trying to get ideas on what people will want to do. there is a big car show going on at noah's ark which is the largest waterpark in america. there is suppose to be 1200 cars unfortunatly its only for 1989 or older cars. well im open to suggestions brandon and i were talking about finding a close racetrack to go mess around at. Automotion Car Show | Get Info About The Classic Car Show & Swap Meet and when it comes down to the last week all the people who are going it would be nice for you to post your number so we can all keep in touch if you are in please comment that you are in thanks. just want to keep track. here is the link for the hotel. Wisconsin Dells Mt. Olympus Water & Theme Park Resorts | Call 855.247.0210 for Reservations or Information tentative schedule courtesy of explicit spade Friday May 17th 2013: Whenever you show up- Hotel Check in at Mt. Olympus Hotel 7PM: Parking Lot Meet & Greet BBQ (Might need to make sure this is allowed before we get carried away with the idea.) 10PM: Cosmic Bowling at Knucklehead's (Close at Midnight) 12PM: Hotel Beverage Consumption and Cougar Hunting Expedition Saturday May 18th 2012 10AM: Breakfast at Paul Bunyans Cook Shanty (All you can eat breakfast buffet until noon) Noon: Car Show 3PM: Cruise the Dells 5PM: Eats 7PM: Edge O' Dells Burnout Contest 10PM: Hotel Beverage Consumption and Cougar Hunting Expedition Sunday May 19th 2012 10AM: Farewell Breakfast to those that are leaving NOON: 92 Holes of Mini-Golf 3PM: Go Karts 4PM: Cruise 6PM: Eats 7PM: Hotel Things i am personally going to be there around 6 if anyone has suggestions please feel free to comment current list of attendees Brandonl2000 explicit spade bio248 tony mendez blueguy91 btownmills odi matt5112 99pgpgt Nick walsky Colin moris nick stamper nickell redlinepontiac chris breitkreutz ralm regalgsshocker jteske88 taz magister koniig collindunn elrodd384
  12. Will and I are going to pittsburgh and quarryville Jan 12th an 13th. they are having an R/C drift competition in Quarryville Im not too familiar about it Will is entering but we both wanted to meet up with whomeevr since we are out there. I will be driving the infamous Equinox race truck lol so no TGP.. link to the event:!/events/427272227327449/ my digits- 631 678 1246 -Jarek
  13. Hi, I found a leak on the radiator last week. I could trace it and found that it ir leaking between the plastic case and the aluminum panel. I also found that this happens when the pressure raises in the system and begins to hiss there next to the hose. Does any stop leak works? I found here in Uruguay a Liqui Moly Stop Leak that it looks like a good option. Thanks, Nicolás.
  14. thinking about going to check out a 97 gtp coupe. assuming cleveland car, i am expecting to see typical rust behind rear wheels but otherwise decently solid w body. if it's clean = bonus. here is what i know. 212k blower replaced recently, 3.4 pulley carbon fiber hood "custom taillights and headlights" probably means ricer clear tails and who knows what headlights. new stainless exhaust comes with - not on car moonroof "adjustable race struts" whatever the hell that means to the seller - could be totally different than what it means to me - doesnt know brand. bad steering rack i have no idea what i should be looking to pay. most likely it would be a lowball offer to try and get it cheap to fix up and resell to make a couple hundred bucks over a month or two. any help appreciated. i know how cheap you guys are so it's better to ask here than have the blue book tell me it's worth 2300 in fair condition.
  15. I didn't see any of you at the All GM Nationals in Carlisle, PA or the Ames Performance Tri-Power Nationals in Norwalk, OH this summer so I don't know if any of you would be interested in something like this or not, but I'm going to post it up to let you know about it. This will be our 2nd Annual Detail Clinic and Car show being held at a place most of us either only ever drive by or see on TV. We had an awesome time last year and our host, Dr. Lahar, has invited us back again. Cars came in from NY, NJ, MD, VA and of course PA. The clinic is free and it's free for spectators. If you want to show your car or just get a picture in front of the house it's only a $5.00 donation for either. The home owner has two 1969 Yenko Camaro's there for us to drool over: one bone stock and one built to drag race in a class that appears stock, but in no way is. He has several other cars and if you look through the link at the bottom of this post you'll be able to see pictures from last year of an unbelievable assortment of vehicles and the great time we had. Dylan Von Kleist (Adam's professional detailer, forum guru and master of research and development) is coming back to Central PA this Labor Day Weekend for another Detail Clinic/Car Show Sponsored by Thompson Racing, SVGTO and a host of others! If you missed last fall's, here's your chance: don't miss this one. Here's the house we'll be parked in the backyard of for the show portion of the day: Here's the garage the clinic will be held out of: Both upstairs and down! The garage now has a name and the sign was just hung a few weeks ago: Here's a few of the trophies Jason and Dr. Lahar are putting up as awards: Three deep in six classes: Old Muscle New Muscle Trucks/Jeeps/SUV Hot Rods Imports/Exotics Classics (Pre Muscle Car Era) Plus Best of Show awards by: Graystone Restorations The local Police and Fire Departments SVGTO (Susquehanna Valley GTO Club) BMC (Blue Moon Cruisers) Adam’s Premium Car Care The clinic is a rain or shine event. The show portion is a fair weather event only and has a $5.00 entry fee. I've heard a rumor that Dylan could perhaps be bringing a little Adam's goodie to pass around to all show entries to really help offset the minimal $5.00 entry fee. If you've got any questions feel free to call: (me)BRZN/Dave Eyster 717-475-5457 or Jason Korb 717-712-7866 As shown on the flyer, all proceeds benefit the Upper Allen Fire Department and the Upper Allen Police Departments SMARTS (Students Making Appropriate Responses to Tough Situations) Program. Not only will the $5.00 entry fee to the show field go to them, but if you'd like a picture taken out front of the place: and why wouldn't you? (Look how nice it makes my company car look). We're going to have a photographer (Russ Esenwine) available all day to take pictures of your ride for a $5.00 donation to also go 100% to the Fire and Police and the pictures will be printed and given to you before you leave! We've got a caterer coming in this year to purchase your lunch from: Enck’s Catering Bob Krewson, the SVGTO Club Treasurer and I refused to cook again. What a nightmare it turned out to be last year! We've got a professional DJ coming in this year: Captain Kent Productions Link to last years fun.
  16. [TABLE] [TR] [TD]Installed double dog-bone engine mounts, also added three 5/16 chains bolted between engine and subframe. [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD]Had an incident at skyview drags, blew both the ac mount bracket and the single upper dogbone brackets off engine...motor came up and dented the hood disconected the throttle cable and knocked my master cylinder resivour out of the master cylinder. When I race with her now I tighten the chains down, makes for a very flat launc [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]
  17. Hope this is in the right section.... I have a Racetronix W1 fuel pump harness that my brother bought for the Regal GS from PRJ Performance several years ago. I recently installed a new fuel pump in the Regal GS and now I'd like to install this harness as well. I can't find any directions for it online or otherwise, but the install looks pretty straightforward. Not really sure where to mount the relay though. Is it installed underneath the car? (edit) Here is the harness on Racetronix site:
  18. Hello! I recently purchased a 1997 Lumina 3.1 to use in South Sound Speedway's (my local track) FWD V6 Bump-To-Pass class, subsequently we had to take out the dashboard for safety reasons and so that the required rollcage would fit, and the steering wheel was replaced with a quick disconnect style. Because of these, we have this wierd slider style ignition switch that looks like it was activated with a rod, that was moved by the actual lock cylinder. We still have the keys duct taped into the key cylinder for VATS which will be tucked up into the sheetmetal dashboard, but we would like to put the starter onto a pushbutton, and the ignition switch itself onto a two position (on-off), or three position toggle (on, off, acc if required) so we can ditch the slider. The wires going into the ignition switch slider are colored Yellow (starter), Red (12V hot), Brown, Pink, Purple, a light brown tan colored one, and a Red with White Stripe. I would like to know what wires do what so we can wire them up to a toggle. As of right now, if I put some sort of small screwdriver into the hole for the slider switch, I can find all the positions (acc, off, start, run) and the car will start, no security light flashing on instrument cluster (like I said, VATS key is duct taped into cylinder, cylinder still wired up). Any suggestions? I'd like to know how the switch works, like. Red is always hot, so what wires go hot in the run position? What needs to be grounded and when so we can get this wired up. It doesnt even have to be one switch, I've seen there are two ingition wires, brown and pink I think, if those need to be on seperate toggles so be it.
  19. As title says. I'm looking for new exhaust valve guides. Looking around forums it seems they're availalbe, but I can't find any. I just got hosed by the race/machine shop I went to. I received my heads back Wednesday supposedly ready to bolt on, but upon disassembling them so I could send them off to WOT-TECH for porting here soon, I've found some problems and need new exhaust valve guides Thanks
  20. Welp the time has finally has come to build my coilovers. I have been seaching and searching and hopefully I have the parts i will need. Car is a 96 9C3 Lumina and plan is to AutoX/road race alot. and DD it till i buy a DD for next winter. the build wont take place till march tho. This is the list of parts I have come up with From 4x coilover sleeves p/n a1-12452h 4x adjusting nuts p/n a1-12460 4x upper seats p/n a1-12470 Summit Racing 2x front springs hal-12400 2x rear spring hal-12350 Rock Auto new ball joints, inner and outer tierods. front kyb GR2 strut cartridges Rear Kyb GR2 struts BXX front and rear strut mounts Energy Suspension LCA bushings p/n 3.3156 Anything I am missing? Yes I do plan to do rear trailing and lateral arms but that'll be down the road a little and I am still not sure what I want to do with those.
  21. Hello, Obviously I am a newbie... I am from NE Ohio and myself and my friends (Poor Mens Passion) race in the "Car Warz" series. We run the Compact Enduro race which is a 100 lap 100 car race. Both my friends run Lexus IS300s and I just got a Monte Z34 to run. It has a DOHC 3.4L. The car was in good shape till it got hit in the rear passenger side... Its kind of sad because according to (a vin/rpo database) the car is pretty rare... There was only 1 other monte made with the same rpo options and only 4 made with more options in 1997! Pretty cool. I have a bunch of pictures of it on my FaceBook group which is - (I think that link should work). If anyone is interested I can post some pictures up here. I have some youtube videos of the races too. I do have a couple questions, for some reason, even at WOT the car shifts out of first at like 4k rpm. I have been debating manually running the shift solonoids because I am not going to be able to get it to the top of 2nd gear until i get her to the track. I dont want it upshifting to 3rd. I may need it tached out in 2nd and never hit third. Thanks guys.
  22. I mentioned this briefly in conversation in the W/E thread, but figured it deserves a thread in case anyone wants to try it since performance options are nonexistant for us. I believe Koni shock 8610-1437 will work in a 1st gen. It's a single-adjustable from their race line and you pay $$$ for that kind of shock. I had these lying in the garage and noticed its basically the same size as a blown GR2 cartridge, I replaced. At this time, I have not tried to install it in the front to say for sure, but I don't see why they wouldn't. The Koni is 1/8" a taller body, but that shouldn't be a problem with the thread on cap. I cannot tell a visible difference in body diamater. The Koni has a shorter shaft from top of body to the mount, but less travel isn't going to hurt anything and is nice for a lowered car. It also has a taller threaded section of the shaft which is nice to be able to reach the adjuster. Here's a comparison pic from a crappy laptop:
  23. Hey guys, I know that some of you live in and around the Pittsburgh area, like me, and I wanted to let you know about the Vintage Grand Prix. It has a show for both foreign and domestic cars, set up on different fields. I go every year, and it is a blast. Register online at their website, and I think it is $25.00. It lets you park on the field, and there are probably 200 cars in the domestic field. Clubs (like the Mustang club) park together. The entrance fee is for charity, so it is a good cause, besides a good time. You can bring whatever you want to eat and drink, and there are many vendors, and of course the race itself is next Saturday. I'll be there both Saturday and Sunday with my 97 Cutlass.
  24. so Im looking to find some places to buy 1st gen rear lateral and trailing arms w/ poly bushings that are adjustable all I can find are ones for the 2nd gen and ones from Held. I figured that since I race the car at the track and do auto x its a good option to through some performance ones in there. Any inputs welcome! thanks -Jarek
  25. alright so i just finished doing the intake on the 96 monte carlo 3100. Started the car up and if i let it idle, it sounds like it has a race cam in it. but if i hold the throttle a little bit it runs smoothly. i put my scan tool on it, and all it says is p0300 random misfire. i squirted soapy water around anywhere there could be a vacuum leak and i didnt see any bubbles. the only thing i saw when reassembling it was that one of the plug wire boots (the end that goes on the plug) had a tear in it, about 2 cm long. i didnt think it would matter, but maybe the spark is arching out? I Ohm'd all the wires and they were all in spec tho. What do you guys think?? Also, i replaced all the spark plugs and yes they are all gapped correctly.
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