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Found 324 results

  1. I have a question, if you know the origin of the photos of the 1988 pacecar in a museum, the ones where the car is behind a velvet barricade, and with an engine on display. Basically, where was this photo taken?????? who took it? I visited (finally!) the Indianapolis Motor speedway...... and went to look at the photo archives for 1988. so far..... here's what I learned: 1988 pace car replica convertibles were used as parade cars. 1988 coupes were also used as parade cars... and at least some of these had sunroofs! calais coupes were also used as parade cars in 88, painted in the 88 pacecar scheme, and not the 86 paint. JIM DAVIS rode in the 49 pace car. In the prior pictures I have seen, I have isolated only two real pace cars. 1 with race lighting, with HUD, with removal rollbar, with leather interior, WITH HOOD VENTS! with Quad 4 1 withOUT race lighting, withOUT HUD, with removal rollbar, with leather interior, without Hood vents, with Quad 4. almost ALL publicity shots are of the non-race ready vert. in the publicity packet that comes with the 50 pacecars (maybe all 250, or ?) is a picture showing two verts under construction whose caption implies that they were the only two cars produced to be real pacecars. so far the cars I have seen from the photo archives are consistent with these two, However, the archives guy said that typically they have 3 ready pacecars. the archive guy showed me a picture of a prior year HURST OLDS pacecars.... with EVERY Hurst Olds pacecar (including parade replicas) in a formation on the track. If I dig... and go through a stack of proofs that would sit 6 feet tall... I am hoping to locate a similar 88 image.
  2. hello everyone, I have been doing a good share of research into generation 2 suspension into a gen 1. From everything I have found it is not a bolt up modification. looking at the suspensions of both car I know the gen two control arm has the ball joint in it and is slightly higher in placement. My thought is to modify the gen 1 control arm to house the ball joint from the newer gen. I know the strut, spring and knuckle would have to be transferred over. My question is there anything you guys can see in this idea that would stop it dead in its track or anything I should look into?
  3. 3rd or 4th annual, I've lost track. For the Columbus meet (date of June 26th - 28th) We're bringing it back regardless. For those unaware, Ruffles All-Dressed chips are awesome chips that are only available in Canada. We'll be selling bags for $5 each with 100% of the monies going to maintenance and upkeep of the forum, we'll be bringing 20 bags so reverse on this thread $5 X 20 bags = $100 for the club. This year Matt (Got2BGM) has been kind enough to buy half of the allotment and I'm buying the other half (I would recommend cornering me and getting chips from me as soon as I get there as his could be counterfit Chinese chips) Thanks to all who purchased in the past, and thanks again to Luke for all he does, looking forward to seeing him at the meet. List name and reservations below in the format: 1.) PsychoMatt (2 bags) 2.) Nunzi (1 bag) 3.) Luke (3 bags) =============== Total 6 bags And then keep on adding.
  4. Hey, W family. 1st & foremost...can't wait for the W-Body Nationals this year! 2ndly, my 92 3.1 is sputtering, sometimes to the point of stalling abruptly and spontaneously when hot. Some days it's perfect. Some days, it'll want to leave you stranded. My 1st thought was the new pos Airtex fuel pump is failing, because it has been whining loudly like a vacuum cleaner when hot. Now, I'm thinking FPR. It's showing 43 PSI w/key on, 37 at idle. When I pull the vacuum line to the FPR, 43 PSI again. Am I on the right track here to replace the FPR? Thanks!
  5. Ok new to the forum but not to the search feature. I can't seem to get a straight answer on gen 2 struts. I race this car on a 1/4 mile banked track and it rolls over on the right front sidewall bad. We are allowed 2 degrees of camber in the right front but the factory strut can't be modified. Will a second gen control arm and strut with knuckle work with my CV axle and subframe?
  6. Hi guys! Been a while since I've logged in and about 15 minutes ago someone tried to log in to my account here. The system rejected any more log in attempts and auto generated an email with the perps ip address. Just wanted to let you know in case anyone else was having trouble. I sold my 90 TGP last year. I bawled my head off but I didn't have the time or money to do the cosmetic stuff needed. It still purred like a kitten. I sold it for $1100 which I didn't think was too bad considering how trashed it was. I will own one again someday. I am sure of it. Anyhow, let me know if you want the perps ip address and track them for me. Xoxo Snip
  7. Ok, so...window won't go down...motor runs...regulator does go up and holds my window closed. How do you get the freaking door panel off? I found a couple threads mentioning the hidden screw under the "don't hit my open car door" light, but is there anything holding the armrest on? How exactly do you get the door panel off? *mentally filed under 'things that are easier to do on g-bodies'*
  8. Blew a line on my 1999 Buick Regal GS about 2 weeks ago. Well yesterday I got under the car and found out all the lines are looking bad. I want to replace them all. I did track down the line that blew goes to the RF wheel. My questions are: 1) Does anyone know if there is a routing path for them? 2) The brakelines connects to some electrical box from the reservoir and they have flexible braided lines. What is this? 3) Can I cut the line where the braided line runs behind the engine and flare it so I can keep the braided line part? 4) Is there rubber lines with the car? I check out and I couldnt see any. Not sure if any are hidden. Is there anything else I should know? I do know the bleeding procedure is RR, LF, LR, RF. I also cant stand how all the lines inter tangle to this electrical box.
  9. Hey guys, I have a 95 Grand Prix GTP. The other day when rolling up the driver's side window, the window started going up crooked then popped off it's track at the rear and jammed. I'm lucky it didn't break. I jostled it back into position, pushed it back into the track, and helped it roll up. It rolls down fine, but when I go to roll it up, it looks like it's only the back of the window is being pushed up causing it to go crooked. I haven't taken the dor apart yet, but what am I likely to find broken in there? Is this common (like the stupid broken armrest hinge)? Thanks!
  10. First, some of these questions may be answered here or elsewhere on the interwebz. I know this, and i am currently searching for answers to alot of these things already. I am just trying to expedite the process (or be lazy, however you want to call it is fine with me, lol). If its already posted up in here on another thread, and your going to tell me to f*** off, please at least include a link to the place where the answer is already covered along with your comment telling me to f*** off. It would be much appreciated. I have been absent from this forum for a few years, and there is alot of data to sort through. Now. On to brass tack's. Had two great deals fall into my lap. Have an 01 Century with a blown up 3100, while searching for a suitable replacement engine i stumbled onto a rolled over 98 Regal GS with a properly modified Supercharged 3800. I'm planning on swapping the powertrain of the Regal into the Century. Mechanically this is a no-brainer for me. however i am curious what i should expect as far as electronics go. engine bay: Will the wiring harness's/ECM's be plug and play? Dash/Gauges: The gauge cluster of the Regal was rebuilt (no dead displays! ) Will i have to reprogram anything when i put it in the Century? was there a different wiring harness used in the century that wouldnt allow certain gauges/displays of the Regal's guage to function...? Is the data depicting mileage stored within the gauge or is it stored in the BCM? Transmission: not swap or electronics related, but did these transmissions come from the factory with a limited slip diff? does anyone know the final drive ratio, as well as if there are any alternative ratios available..? also, is there a good no B.S. site showing all the factory specs of these cars (track performance) engine's (depicting internal differences between the N/A 3800 vs S/C 3800, like whether or not the S/C 3800 has forged pistons/crank/rods, etc) Better yet, is there a good site showing in detail the evolution of the Series 1 / Series 2 / Series 3.8L's? Thanks in advance for any help & input.
  11. First, some of these questions may be answered here or elsewhere on the interwebz. I know this, and i am currently searching for answers to alot of these things already. I am just trying to expedite the process (or be lazy, however you want to call it is fine with me, lol). If its already posted up in here on another thread, and your going to tell me to f*** off, please at least include a link to the place where the answer is already covered along with your comment telling me to f*** off. It would be much appreciated. I have been absent from this forum for a few years, and there is alot of data to sort through. Now. On to brass tack's. Had two great deals fall into my lap. Have an 01 Century with a blown up 3100, while searching for a suitable replacement engine i stumbled onto a rolled over 98 Regal GS with a properly modified Supercharged 3800. I'm planning on swapping the powertrain of the Regal into the Century. Mechanically this is a no-brainer for me. however i am curious what i should expect as far as electronics go. engine bay: Will the wiring harness's/ECM's be plug and play? Dash/Gauges: The gauge cluster of the Regal was rebuilt (no dead displays! ) Will i have to reprogram anything when i put it in the Century? was there a different wiring harness used in the century that wouldnt allow certain gauges/displays of the Regal's guage to function...? Is the data depicting mileage stored within the gauge or is it stored in the BCM? Transmission: not swap or electronics related, but did these transmissions come from the factory with a limited slip diff? does anyone know the final drive ratio, as well as if there are any alternative ratios available..? also, is there a good no B.S. site showing all the factory specs of these cars (track performance) engine's (depicting internal differences between the N/A 3800 vs S/C 3800, like whether or not the S/C 3800 has forged pistons/crank/rods, etc) Better yet, is there a good site showing in detail the evolution of the Series 1 / Series 2 / Series 3.8L's? Thanks in advance for any help & input.
  12. I'm sure this has been asked before, but I'm not having any luck finding what I'm looking for... I found a '95 Regal with the 6-way passenger's seat track, and want to install it on the passenger's side of my car for the wife...the wiring is dead-nuts simple, but I need to pull the existing manual track off of my Cutlass seat, and install the Regal track without destroying the Cutlass seat. Looks to me like it's as simple as peeling back the leather skin, and unbolting the track from the Regal seat...is it really that simple, or are there other things I need to know before doing this?
  13. Hey guys, a few of the local members are having a grudge match/ meet and greet down at the local track on the 25 of this month. some will be racing others will just be there to watch. all are welcome.
  14. There is a switch on the track of the moonroof with 3 wires. Mine has been repaired by someone previously but is a mess and doesn't work. I am assuming it is for telling the motor where the closed position is on the glass. Mine doesn't stop on it's own, I have to fiddle with the switch in the car to get it to close tight. I am thinking this is why. If someone would be so kind as to snap a pic of theirs so I know what wire goes where to repair mine, that would be spectacular. Thanks
  15. L/F window pops out of track by door handle, looks like the molded on clip on the black is worn out.
  16. L/F window pops out of track by door handle, looks like the molded on clip on the black is worn out.
  17. 1990 Cutlass Supreme SL: I've been trying to track down the part number or a website where I can buy a front license plate bracket for the front bumper - NOT a "universal" one, but one specific to this car and bumper. The car never had one and in Ohio we are required. I can't come up with a part number or anything! Any help is appreciated!
  18. I got this car from my father back in 2009, He bought it brand new, and I know he never altered anything on it. I was wondering if anyone knows about the gto model??? I can not find any info on it when I search, so hopefully someone here can help me out....
  19. I just bought my 93 Cutlass convertible and the PO said they had replaced the regulator but the window still wouldn't work so they gave me another regulator with the car well when I took the one out of the car it didn't look like it had been changed but the arm was out of the track so I put the other one in but it looked just like the one that was in the car but it looks like the arm is to long when the window is all the way up the roller on the arm is only about 3 inches from the end of the track and so when you put the window down it just rolls out of the track which was the trouble with the first one Help!!!!!!!
  20. My driver's side window doesn't like to stay on track. I've pulled off the door panel, and the only thing there is one arm with a wheel at the end of it, when I put the window on that it rolls up and down but you have to guide it by hand the whole way. Nothing holds the front of the window so if you let go for just a moment it dips down and slides off into the door. I'm thinking there's a few parts missing. I've never worked on power windows before so I have no clue what I'm doing. Anybody got any advice/pictures of how it's supposed to look?
  21. I been in the w-body world since my first 1989 grandprix .I been proud to drive them and mod them to push them to the limits of max power to the ground . I studied to wrench and got a Associates degree in Auto Technology to prove what I love doing. I been extremely bit by the mod bug with my last grand prix gtp so bad that I threw down cash for an intercooler to cool stuff down a bit. I have a real nice setup going tuned and ready to go to the track.
  22. Hey guys i am new to this platform. not new to building motors or building cars. but new to luminas. or W bodys. My Daily Driver is a 1994 pontiac sunbird LE 2 door with the 2.0 Liter ATX... My summer car/track car is a 1994 dodge Stealth RT TT. with to many mods to list. 6 speed MTX.. my sunbird is a total POS and i am sick of it. I have the option to buy my sisters 1992 4 door Lumina with the 3.1 V6 ATX. the lumina only has 51K original miles!!!! my sister is the second owner and barely drives it. it has brand new tires as of last month. brand new plugs and wires. new brakes and a few other little things. so anyways. it is dent free/rust free. spotless gorgeous car. and she will sell it to me for 2500$ I want to know...are these decent cars? as I put miles on it what will break first/need to be replaced. How fast are these cars. i know they are not track bound cars or fast cars. but is it going to struggle to get up to high way speeds like my sunbird? what is everyones opinion on the 4 door 1992 lumina. thanks
  23. I was just referred to this site from another GM forum by a forum member here. I am the second owner of this low mile (40K) GTP with the Getrag HD284 5 speed transmission. General Motors 'Vintage Division' records show that only 84 of this model were imported into Canada in the 1992 production run. The cloth interior appears new unlike what a leather optioned vehicle would have done. While they made huge numbers of these I don't think many of this particular vintage have been preserved as this one has and the remainder of those that are still on the road are in the final stages of being beat to death and ultimately will be recycled. a few modifications where carefully done in a way as not to irreversible, the popular 70/80's BBS look-alike wheels where updated and the track was widened by 2" in the rear using billet wheel spacers, the big pipes are of course a must these days and the Mic Mouse redundant multi-button steering wheel was quickly replaced with a Grant leather edition. the original owner installed the slightly wider than what was available as an OEM rear spoiler and it definitely gives a better visual than that of the narrower GM unit which clears the power antenna when it is up, this wider after market unit does not. I love this cars looks and the ride is not the least bit harsh yet in stays flat in the corners... great car, now if it was rated @ 315 ponies instead of 215 it would be a serious contender but hey it was 1992, that is practically the Stone Age in terms of the evolution of the performace car :~) the running boards, well when you live rural you have to protect the body from the gravel no matter what........
  24. So yesterday I rolled the driver window down on the Paperweight (92 GP coupe), and it wouldn't roll back up more than a quarter of the way. Not at all nice when it is barely above freezing, and you're driving at nearly 60MPH! Anyways, I did some searching and I think I have the answer, but I want to confirm I'm on the right track (pun not intended). It was pretty obvious that voltage was getting to the motor even though the motor was not moving, as the voltage would drop every time I hit the switch with key on, engine off. I found that if I pulled the window up firmly it would move about an inch, and then the motor would be able to raise it the rest of the way (most of the time). Based on my searches, I'm thinking that either the plastic tabs on the bottom of the window are shot, or the track itself is deformed and allowing the window to slide off. Does this sound about right? If this is the case, any hints or tips regarding disassembling the door? This would be the first time I've needed to do that in a W. Thanks everyone!
  25. I hit a pothole about a week and a half ago, which I probably got air off of, and it messed my car up pretty bad. Problem is, I hit the pothole with the right front and rear tires, but all of the damage is on the left side! How the hell could that happen? I broke the left front drive axle and it knocked my window track off, so now I can't drive it or roll up the window... My question is... is it possible that I could hit a pothole with the right side of my car and it breaks the left axle and left window track? I've only owned the car for maybe 5 or 6 weeks, and I'm absolutely POSITIVE that I haven't hit anything else except that damn pothole... I'm worried that the city's insurance company is just going to tell me off because all the damage is on the "wrong" side of the car...
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