99 Regal GSE No Start

[virtuetovice]

The Regal won't start by turning the key. At first it was random and intermittent, now nothing at all. I got under the car and narrowed it down by bridging the positive feed on the solenoid. First to the starter motor feed and the starter motor spun but no flywheel engagement. Then to the smaller ignition signal terminal. When I did that the solenoid engaged and the starter motor spun, starting the engine. So the starter motor works. With the car on and running I bumped the ignition to the start position and did not hear the starter engage. So, my assumption would be the ignition cylinder. Main reason for that is, I am able to remove the key from the ignition while in the run position, with the car on. I also noted that the "Security" light illuminates and the car continues to run. It's done that "no key trick" for a while so would it just now be causing the no start issue?? Is there anything else that could be causing my problem?

[Schurkey]

As best I can tell, you don't have a "no start" problem.

 

You have a "no crank" problem. Diagnosis is entirely different. Problem is almost certainly between the battery-to-ignition switch, or ignition switch-to-starter; including potential anti-theft device.

 

Don't mistake the lock cylinder for the ignition switch.

[virtuetovice]

I suppose that's what I meant, no crank. I ended up going under the car and bridging two contacts on the back of the starter solenoid...the always-hot terminal and the ignition input terminal. With the car in the "run" position the car started just fine. So supposedly that ruled out anti-theft because that system should also control fuel injection/spark. Low and behold when I turned the car off, the car started back up just fine!! I went through that cycle a couple more times and it was starting normally. I let it get cold for a while and it was back to not cranking. Hmm. Went under and bridged the solenoid again, and of course the car cranked and started. Hmmmmm...

 

 

Now would be a good time to note that I think the VATS has already been bypassed.

 

I swapped the crank relay out today and so far it has been cooperating well. I guess I will find out in the morning once she's cooled off. If not, I've also installed a push button switch under the hood that fires the solenoid and starts the car, but it will only start with the key in and turned to the "run" position. To some of you that may sound lazy. Not even close, I used good 12GA automotive wire, and good terminals. I also used the correct temporary push button switch designed for this exact application.

[Schurkey]

So the most likely deal is lack of amperage to the S terminal of the solenoid. It may be getting some amperage, but not enough to FULLY magnetize the solenoid coil to draw in the plunger. A voltmeter might tell that tale--how much voltage at the S terminal when you turn the key and it DOESN'T crank? How much when you turn the key and it does crank?

 

Another possibility might be defective solenoid, or slightly bound-up solenoid plunger in the starter.

[virtuetovice]

It appears that it was indeed the "CRANK" relay under the hood. After replacing it, the car has been cranking normally with no problems for the past week. Since a relay is an electromechanical component, I would be inclined to say that a failure is not unreasonable after 15 years...