Heartbeat1991 Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 I know this is a fairly common problem. My brakes lights don't go off without pulling up on the pedal. I've searched, but I haven't found a solution to the problem. There isn't any sort of adjustment on the linkage. What needs to be done to get the pedal to return all the way up and turn off the brake lights? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 Readjust the stop lamp switch. With the early (88-92) design, getting your foot caught under the pedal once can be enough to throw it out of wack. there is a small metal tab on the switch. I usually use a small hook tool to reach up and grab it, once its pulled out push the pedal all the way to the floor (can be a pain with your hand back there holding the dumb tab out) then release (pedal and tab) and you'll hear some click/ratchet noises in the switch and it should be good. Verify the brake lamps out, if they aren't redo the procedure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heartbeat1991 Posted April 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 Is the problem the switch, or the pedal travel? Because on mine, at least, the pedal isn't traveling back up far enough, as it's also not hitting the plunger for the cruise control unless I pull the pedal back up. I know that can be adjusted, it just seems to me that the pedal still should return back up to the furthest position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 as long as its not on the floor and has good travel i'd guess someone accidentally yanked back on the pedal and knocked the switches out of adjustment. PMIII happy with no codes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heartbeat1991 Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 Relatively. No codes, no lights. I recently put an accumulator in it. I think it requires more bleeding. I was hoping the accumulator would also take care of this problem. But it didn't. So it's normal that the pedal doesn't rest at the top of it's travel then? I will have to try what you said earlier tomorrow. It's a pain to do stuff like that in the dark. I'm still chasing leaky fuel tank problems. I'm getting tired of dropping the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 There was a TSB about this issue that may or may not apply to your car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heartbeat1991 Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 There was a TSB about this issue that may or may not apply to your car. Oh Goodie. Is that part even available? That seems more my problem. The previous owner had the dealership fix the same problem many years ago too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 http://www.gmpartseast.com/parts/gm-18017614_repair-ki.html :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heartbeat1991 Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 http://www.gmpartseast.com/parts/gm-18017614_repair-ki.html :eek: Oh Goodie. I could get a whole new master for that. I will try what Chris said, if it has a push rod problem, I'll find another way to fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 I think that IS a whole new master! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heartbeat1991 Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 I thought it might be, but it says kit, and the part number matches the repair kit in the TSB. But the fact it says core charge makes me think it could be the whole thing. I don't want to go that route. I am sure I can find a way to make it work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 With a core like that, it has to be the whole master cylinder. I would adjust the brake switch and see where that leaves you unless you've went through that TSB step by step to confirm you have another issue(if it's just the retainer as in part of that tsb, there's at least one listed cheaply on ebay at the moment). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heartbeat1991 Posted April 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 Chris, I take it this metal hook at the bottom is what you speak of? It looks like it would be some kind of adjustment. Also, can anyone verify what the smaller 2 pin connector is for? It was disconnected on mine when I pulled it out. I assume that's been the phantom problem causing my cruise control not to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted April 12, 2014 Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 looks like you're correct about the cruise switch. http://imgur.com/XyPSKZA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heartbeat1991 Posted April 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 Thanks, Chris. I have no idea how you get that done without pulling the switch out. But I got them working right again. I see how easy it is for someone to pull up on the pedal and screw it up too. I had to re-adjust the cruise control vacuum release too, but the lights work right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted April 13, 2014 Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 its a total pain, I use a small hook tool to get at it. Glad you got it fixed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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