Z34guy Posted January 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 you expected it. lol. my comp slowed down as well. some mod wanna put a 56k warning in the thread title? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 been there done that. That drive seal can leak quite a bit and throw you off for awhile. I love the teal color. God bless the owner for restoring such a fine W. If not done already. Give the owner a recommendation to this site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z34guy Posted January 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 I found a note inside the car from the owner to us, telling us not to put tape on the exterior of the car as she'd just had the paint touched up professionally. Her name is Maria apparently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairdo12 Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 Please tell me you guys did the oil pump drive o ring. Otherwise i predict a 70% chance of an oh shit moment when you get it started and it continues to dump its oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z34guy Posted January 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 Please tell me you guys did the oil pump drive o ring. Otherwise i predict a 70% chance of an oh shit moment when you get it started and it continues to dump its oil. Â nope. despite me repeatedly warning the teacher about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddroptop Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 Your teacher has to be an idiot not to do the oil pump drive! I've benefitted by many of the problems and cures that this forum's members have brought to my attention and am happy to share the cures with my mechanic friends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 Your teacher has to be an idiot not to do the oil pump drive! Â And it's only like a $1 fix at that! Some people just don't make sense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairdo12 Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 I think the rear head has to come off to do the o ring on the lq1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 I think the rear head has to come off to do the o ring on the lq1 Â To do it properly by replacing the o-ring, yes. It can be pulled up like a half inch or so with the head on so you can seal it with RTV though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z34guy Posted January 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 THE BITCH STARTED TODAY! Â We finally realized the Safety neutral switch was adjusted wrong, so we had that right after about 45 minutes trying to get it right. Then the Battery was low on charge. charged it. then high on voltage, low on amps. Battery's had it. I filmed one of the start attempts. I didn't get when it actually started, but I do have footage of it running. long cranking. I noticed a factory CD player and took a pic. And here's the owner's letter I mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 Nice a factory CD player. Do you know if it works? I miss the sound of a DOHC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z34guy Posted January 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 Nice a factory CD player. Do you know if it works? I miss the sound of a DOHC. Â I have no idea whether it works or not. I'm assuming it does. Everything lights up when the key is turned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 I have no idea whether it works or not. I'm assuming it does. Everything lights up when the key is turned. Â The only way to know for sure is to put a CD in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z34guy Posted January 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 Figured I would also post These pics. These pics are of vehicles the school owns.  The first one is a 2004 Scion xB. A promotional car the school uses. The emphasis on this car is electronics, with a removable fiberglass speakerbox in the hatch featuring 2 TV screens, and an XBox. It's currently undergoing updates as it was first built between 2004 and 2007. Engine is bone stock.  The second vehicle pictured here is the School's late 1980's Chevy Cheyenne, a 5.0L 305 ci work truck used often for junkyard runs.  The next is a car the school bought specifically to teach about hybrids. It's a car that's been taken apart many times to teach about hybrids and somehow miraculously still works completely.  Now for a list of cars I have no photos of: Mockup cars: 1995 Chevrolet Corsica: 2200 OHV I4, automatic 1995 Chevrolet Corsica: 3100 OHV V6, automatic *NEW TO US! SCHOOL BOUGHT RECENTLY* 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora: 4.0L DOHC N* V8, automatic 199? Isuzu Trooper: 2.8L SOHC V6, automatic 1999 Saturn SL2: 1.9L DOHC I4, automatic ???? Toyota Camry: ?????????, automatic *NEW TO US! SCHOOL BOUGHT RECENTLY* 1988 Chevrolet S10 Blazer: Frame with engine only. 4.3L V6, automatic  Promotional cars: 199? Acura NSX (Yes you read that right.): Nothing done to the engine. This car's focus is handling and turns on a dime and brakes on one too. 1999 Nissan Skyline GTR R34: All about power. 700~HP (De-tuned). Recently seized by US Government. The school is looking to replace it. So far, considered replacements include: Chevrolet Cobalt SS Turbocharged (2008-2010), GMC Typhoon, Pontiac Grand Prix Turbo (yes. The 1989-1990 W-body one), and the Dodge Viper (post 2000~ redesign). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z34guy Posted January 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 I know I haven't updated since last Tuesday, but that's because there's been nothing worth reporting. Last Wednesday, removed the dead (As in dead-dead. Won't hold a charge) battery and waiting on parts. Â Last Friday: Door handle came in. The one that was on the car threw us for a loop and pissed us off all day. There was a phillips screw that All-Data said didn't exist under the window molding we had to remove. With no battery and therefor no way to roll down the windows to safely remove the trim, we though we were screwed, until one of the instructors took a shot in the dark and removed the screw with a pair of tweezers. Then it took us forever to get the new one lined up due to minute differences between the 2 door handles. Just as we got it on, class ended. Â Monday: Today. We finished putting the door handle back together as we owner finally brought us a new battery. Battery's in, now it won't start again, just cranks. Got fuel, spark and plenty of electricity. Checking out the starter now. Got the starter removed and class ended. LOL. Notice a pattern? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 If it cranks, its not the starter... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z34guy Posted January 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 It's very slow to crank. And no one listens to me. They feel I'm a "know-it-all" and want to prove me wrong. This has led to a lot of "I told you so" moments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 Check the resistance in the cables from the battery to the starter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z34guy Posted January 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 (edited) Did that last week and cleaned the terminal mounting tabs accordingly. Then re-tested. And besides, once we got the Starter off, we found one of the connecting bolts was loose (the one the battery cable connects to). Didn't have time to fix it as class ended. Edited January 24, 2012 by Z34guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 How much resistance was there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z34guy Posted January 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 I can't recall. All I remember was it was within spec after cleaning according to all-data.... I should start writing down things like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z34guy Posted January 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 No photo update today, but there is a diagnostic update. Â So after tightening everything on the starter, we re-installed it. Now it cranks much faster to the point it should fire right up, but isn't. Out of curiosity, we double checked fuel and spark. Got fuel. Spark? Nope. wtf. It had spark Last Week. Plugs are new, wires are good, ignition coils are good, so we're scratching our heads. On a hunch, we checked the Crankshaft Position Sensors. Front one's fine. Rear one isn't sending it's signal. We found our problem... or so it seems. I hate electrical issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliasCT Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Might check the ICM too, if it still doesn't start (what the coil packs plug into). It went out on my 93 and started burning fuses, which is probably the only reason I correctly identified it. Got a cheap junkyard part and it started up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z34guy Posted January 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 Today's update. We got it started again! And this time we were able to repeat it. turned out it WAS the starter as the car started right up after we replaced it. Started idling weird due to an exhaust leak. Both cooling fans were on no matter what we did, so after checking the scanner (SES light was on) we came up with a code for low coolant temperature. I thought it was weird and went into live data. Apparently, the PCM thinks the coolant is at -38* F... So the Coolant Temperature sensor needs replacing... I took a few videos this time, including one of the live data on the scan-tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 Does it sound weird, or is just from the video quality? It sounds like it's running a bit rough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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