GnatGoSplat Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Can't help you with the measurements, but does it look like your idea of shortening them and threading more of the shaft would work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich17 Posted September 29, 2012 Report Share Posted September 29, 2012 I'd say I could climb under mine. But I think you'd want a more precise measurent than that. I would guess then get the car an alignment right away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich17 Posted September 29, 2012 Report Share Posted September 29, 2012 You get poly bushings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted October 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 Can't help you with the measurements, but does it look like your idea of shortening them and threading more of the shaft would work? I don't think it will work. namely the rod is is slightly thinner then the threaded area, it tapers out at the threads. I don't think I could run a die down it and get good threads. Next option will be to cut and weld it. Just need to figure out how much to cut out so I have a good range of adjustment and find someone who is good enough to weld these in a manner that will not fail. as for poly bushings, I am not too interested in pushing out brand new rubber bushings, I may see if there is a easy solution that will work. if there is I may go that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich17 Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 Burn them out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted October 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 (edited) What I'm saying is; they are brand new, I don't see too much reason to replace them. Edit.. for some actual content. I have a line on a fellow that can shorten them for me. I am just waiting to get some bolt-hole to bolt-hole measurements so I know how much to get taken out. Edited October 5, 2012 by White93z34 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikedunbar Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 (edited) Any luck on the measurements? I'll be removing my rear subframe in the next couple of days, and would love to replace the rusty stamped laterals with tubular ones, too. You're keeping the transverse leaf spring too, right? Do you think these could be the right ones? Rock auto, twenty bucks each. And there's a cheaper one without a picture. They call them track arms, isn't that the same thing? Mevotech track bar mk6402 Here's the picture of the trailing arms:, part number dorman 90551. They don't look different to you? I'm probably wrong, but my car has those two holes in about the same place on the top pictures. I'll call and make sure I'm wrong tomorrow. Edited October 16, 2012 by mikedunbar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intern8tion9l Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 those are the trailing arms; front to back, 1 on each side. the lateral links go from the subframe in the center of the car to the outsides, and there are 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikedunbar Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 Yeah, you're right. Darn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silentkillzr Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&vehicleid=13 BMR Makes some very nice suspension components ive noticed... but from what i see its just control arms and braces of sorts. Worth a look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted October 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 Mah main man Jarek got me the measurements, this would be bolt hole to bolt hole... Front links: 22 3/8sin or 56.83cm Rear links 23 3/4sin or 60.32cm looks like the rear ones can be adjusted down far enough with no modifications, but will have limited inward adjustment, lots of outward adjustment. Fronts will require about 1.5in to be removed to fit proper and still have a wide range of adjustment. at this point I think I will try just modifying the front ones to fit and see how the rear does. If I end up needing the adjustment space then I'll cross that bridge when I get there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted October 17, 2012 Report Share Posted October 17, 2012 http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&vehicleid=13 BMR Makes some very nice suspension components ive noticed... but from what i see its just control arms and braces of sorts. Worth a look Ive got some BMR parts on my car and they are niiiice. Would highly recommend them if your willing to pay their price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich17 Posted October 18, 2012 Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 Mah main man Jarek got me the measurements, this would be bolt hole to bolt hole... Front links: 22 3/8sin or 56.83cm Rear links 23 3/4sin or 60.32cm looks like the rear ones can be adjusted down far enough with no modifications, but will have limited inward adjustment, lots of outward adjustment. Fronts will require about 1.5in to be removed to fit proper and still have a wide range of adjustment. at this point I think I will try just modifying the front ones to fit and see how the rear does. If I end up needing the adjustment space then I'll cross that bridge when I get there. BrianG is running stock 2nd gen links with no problems at all. The solid one shoulnt need anything to fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted October 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 BrianG has coil overs. I still have a leaf. You CAN run the gen 2 links unmodified on a coil over car, you cannot on a leafspring car. That said, I don't know the length of gen2 forward links, I would assume it is longer though as they second gens have a slightly wider track width. Regardless I got the front ones modified tonight. I'll throw a coat of paint on them tomorrow or so and post pictures soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich17 Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 Damn. I figured you were switching to coilovers. For the money why not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted October 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2012 (edited) OK Got this knocked out yesterday. Gave the TGP a rear suspension overhaul. For those that wanna do it themselves. 4 REAR gen2 lateral links work great, and are like $24 brand new off rock auto. the front ones have to be shortened by 1.5 inches to work properly and have a good range of adjustment. The guy who cut and welded mine put a piece of 1/2in round stock inside the joint (fits nice and tight) and chamfered a 45* angle on the edges before welding them. I am confident that they will hold up great. for reference I used RAYBESTOS Part # 5762115 but anyhow. here we go. and yes. you have to drop the rear subframe to get the old ones out, gas tank is in the way of the bolts coming out through the rear. I turned the rear bolts around so if i ever have to drop the links off again its not nearly as bad to do, pic of that shortly. maybe that is why my car was impossible to align. I'd bet some tow truck driver once upon a time did that old crap removed, new lateral links fit like a glove I am so happy with how this worked out, will be doing this to the z34 100% for sure. Edited October 29, 2012 by White93z34 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted October 28, 2012 Report Share Posted October 28, 2012 NICE!!!! You should sell modded lat links for us who don't know anyone around that welds let alone if they do that good of work.......... <3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted October 28, 2012 Report Share Posted October 28, 2012 Very nice work! The front lat. links are the only ones that need to be cut and welded? You have a stock monoleaf in that car? The advantage to doing this is huge. Great idea on turning the bolts around too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted October 28, 2012 Report Share Posted October 28, 2012 Nice work Chris. I know someone that can mod and weld those arms..... *thinking* Sent from my Motorola Dynatac 8000x using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted October 28, 2012 Report Share Posted October 28, 2012 Do it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 nice work. however... wouldn;t it be cheaper to use the non adjustable ones cut to size for the front as long as you can make a jig from an old original arm??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 What do you do with the rear bar? Does it adjust down far enough so it fits properly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 What do you do with the rear bar? Does it adjust down far enough so it fits properly? yes it does. i keep failing to post my research pics for what I learned about this.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pshojo Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 Looking good. You should sell these.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted October 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 I'd prefer to not sell them, namely as I am not doing the modificaition myself, and then there is the liability aspect of it. Don't want to risk landing myself or the fellow that does these for me in hot water should something go wrong, or be responsible for someone fucking up themselves/their car/others. I am confident in it, but... liabilities. So take the information and do with it what you will. I COULD use the front bar, and modify it. But that would eliminate a point of adjustment, and they are more expensive brand new, now I know you like to use salvage ones, but I just don't have it in me to pull rusty ass ones off a rusty ass second gen and get them rehabed good enough to reuse. Rear bar DOES adjust down far enough to work proper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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