UA-65274002-1 Jump to content

jman093

Members
  • Content Count

    1,552
  • Donations

    $0.00 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

jman093 last won the day on June 24 2017

jman093 had the most liked content!

About jman093

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 07/25/1986

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    : Wichita

Converted

  • Location
    Wichita, KS

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Nice. You're a hero for fixing it up instead of scrapping!
  2. jman093

    Z34 swag

    All around my garage walls I hang various posters and cheesy magazine advertisements of cars I own/owned. Now that I have a Monte Z34, I purchased 3 mag ads from a seller on eBay, and 3 posters from another. Not in perfect condition, but I don't need them to be, and all of it only set me back $30 shipped. The posters are about 18x36".
  3. Camber more than the caster. My cars also serving as DD's, I was running around -1.7 degrees in the front. On lots of non-street driven vehicles (not talking about w-bodies specifically. Nobody autocrosses w-bodies) it's very common to see guys running negative 3 degrees. I sent the tail end around on my green GTP on more than one occasion. It definitely didn't understeer much and I'm a crappy driver. More caster will help as well though, because it helps the car gain negative camber when the wheels are turned. It's why a lot of cars now have around 10 degrees of caster from the factory.
  4. You don't have to go coilovers all the way around. Front coilovers are a huge pain, the results are usually lacking, and the bearings and shocks tend to wear out very quickly under DD use. Rear coilovers are simpler, and work well. I've lowered and autocrossed a few 1st gens. My combination is cutting a coil off the front springs. Lowers the car. It rides better. It handles better. It uses all the factory components built to withstand the elements, so there's no hit on reliability. I slot the strut towers to get more caster and negative camber. This is the factory approved method for alignments, and it works well. The rear I run coilovers. Never run a lowering leaf. As I mentioned, coilovers work well in the rear. I've been running a 250 lb or 275 lb spring. 300 lb is a little stiff. GMPP trailing arms, fully adjustable set of 2G/3G lateral links.
  5. I see this is an old, dead thread that has been resurrected, but so that it has a proper answer, it is really a 6 speaker system. The door speakers have separate tweeters and woofers in the same assembly so technically it's considered an 8-speaker. The rear and dash speakers are driven by the head unit; the door speakers have their down separate amplifier under the dash. I've always thought it sounded pretty good. Much better than the factory four speaker system like my Z34 has or the Bose system in the Gen 2 GPs.
  6. Thanks, Jiggity. Seeing that now, the Cutlass is definitely stuck with the Cutlass applique. It is the only one that is fat like that. It could still be possible for GP's, Luminas, or Regals to interchange. That's interesting the Regal one has the rubber bumper. Perhaps it makes the doors close with a slightly more appealing thud? A "luxurious" touch to the more expensive Regal? I've noticed Regals are the only W-bodies (that I've seen) to get a vibration damper on the steering column. Perhaps that piece of rubber on the applique is the same kind thing.
  7. No, sorry. I sold it several years ago now. Don't have many pics of it. Cutting one coil lowers roughly 2".
  8. I really don't know. Might be worth buying a junk one at salvage for cheap first.
  9. Wheels and tires were the factory 16x7s. It had ST lowering springs in the front at the time of that picture. It looked ok, but rode like absolute garbage. I later put FE3 springs on it with one coil cut. Kept it lowered and it rode like factory. Coilovers in the rear.
  10. jman093

    Trunk leaks

    Those are the roof ditch moldings. They are not meant to seal water. Their function is as a ditch/trough to keep your front door from being a waterfall from the water running off the roof when it's raining. They do not seal. If you are certain water from there is causing your leak, it means the back glass seal is missing. You could perhaps mitigate the problem by stuffing it full of silicone or something as Imp558 said, so water the ditch sheds is directed elsewhere and the glass seal doesn't have to block as much water.
  11. Old thread, I know, but I figured I'd add that pwmin installed some sort of aftermarket foglamp assembly in a 96 GTP I bought that he had owned. They looked damn good and were substantially brighter than factory ones. I have no clue if he knows what brand those were 12 years on.
  12. jman093

    Trunk leaks

    Wish I'd seen this sooner. Very common (for Grand Prixs at least) to leak into the trunk at the taillights.
  13. Yeah, likely soldered in. Doesn't mean you can't unsolder the bulb(s) and solder in new.
  14. There should be oil in there. As I said in an above post. You are supposed to suck it all out and the factory style cartridges from GM blew out some new oil the first time they were used and refilling the housing. I don't think any aftermarket ones use the oil though. I think they are normal sealed shocks and should be run dry. Either way suck the oil out before installation. Those original GM ones that ran in their oil bath were different looking things.
  15. You could always do a large port swap. In 2000 3100s got the larger 3400 stuff. Larger port heads, larger port intake manifolds, and larger 56mm throttle body. I did that to my brother's L82 in his 96 GP. You'd be turning your L82 into an LG8.
×
×
  • Create New...