Finally bought a buffer: What pads, bonnets, stuff do I need?

[slick]

So I finally broke down and bought a buffer (well, it didn't help that the East Side Coalition gave me a great price on it too!).

 

So the first car I would like to try it on is the Regal. Since Rachel has owned it (7-8 years now), it's been pretty neglected as far as regular washing and waxing is concerned. It doesn't help that about 3 years ago now, someone was breaking into the cars at the university she was attending, and we had to get some new doors, along with paint, put on the car. While the paint was the correct color for the car, it really showed her just how oxidized the paint is.

 

Fast forward, the car is going up for sale VERY soon, and it needs cleaned up bad. Basically, it has heavy oxidation, and lots of minor scratches all over the vehicle. While I don't expect that the original parts will 100% match the replaced doors, if it can be closer, the better.

 

So, what all pads, bonnets, polish's, etc.... do I need to do this. My buffer is a 6-7" guy, and looking around last night, it seems most foam pads are 9-10".

 

Matt (euro) posted the links (below) in another thread, which should get me going on how to use the thing, and I've seen different pads, but on here, I keep reading bonnets and the like, so I'm rather confused.

 

Anyways, pretty much just layout what I need for each step, as far as what I need pad/bonnet/polish wise to remove oxidation, remove swirls, and then finally put a decent polish on the vehicle. Also, I have too much wax. For the polishing stage, can I just use normal wax?

 

Pictures posted below show the difference in the colors.

 

Thanks

 

http://autogeek.net/detailingtips.html

 

http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-videos.aspx

 

 

 

 

[slick]

Ok, so this is what I can come up with.

 

Step 1: Compound and Heavy Cutting (lambs wool bonnet or cutting foam pad)

 

Step 2: Swirl Remover and Polishing (polishing foam pad, what type of bonnet if I go that route?)

 

Step 3: Sealant or Wax and Finishing (finishing foam pad, what type of bonnet if I go that route?)

 

 

Can I pick up the Compound and the Swirl Remover at most auto parts stores, or do I need to pick it up when I go to the auto body supply store to buy my pads?

[Euro]

The steps you have are good to go by for sure. For more on what pads to use, those links you posted should tell you the exact ones for what you want and how abrasive you want to be on the paint, etc. I'm not quite sure about bonnets, I haven't used them before. I think they're just terry cloth/MF that are mostly for removing wax/sealant(which you might know already, haha), and I've always just used a MF towel by hand afterward. You can pick up polishing compound and swirl remover at most auto parts stores, I believe the professional Meguiars products and such can be had retail. For the other things I'd probably just wait for at the auto body store.

 

You have to use polish to bring back out the best and deepest color after using the harsh cutting and compounds. The polish usually doesn't have wax or sealant in it, so you should use the wax/sealant as the final step. Carnauba wax gets you a really deep shine to the paint as well as adding protection. But doesn't last as long as the sealants do, because it's not made up of synthetic stuff like sealants.

 

I think that makes sense, haha.

[slick]

Yeah, that makes good sense.

 

I'll stick to the foam pads. IIRC, mine has the hook and loop system, so I'll just do that.

 

Should I wash and clay bar before hitting it with the buffer?

[Euro]

Yeah definitely do that, especially if you're gonna polish. Some people do the wash, clay, wash, and then start hitting it with the buffer, but I haven't ever had the need to wash again after claying. I just wash, clay the car and keep a MF towel close to wipe off the detailer spray off so I don't need to wash it again.

[Grand Moff Joseph]

First question: what type/brand buffer did you purchase?

 

A good place to purchase bonnets/pads from is The Detail King Worst case, any local body shop supply store should sell a full range of pads/bonnets for most types of buffers.

 

Also, I just give the car a quick rinse after claying - no need to re-wash.

[slick]

Brand is off brand. Does have variable speed trigger and rpm adjuster on it.

 

It is a rotary style though.

 

 

I found a local auto paint supplier, went there this morning and picked up a few hook and loop foam pads. I also picked up Meguiar's Diamond Cut Compound 2.0, Swirl Remover 2.0, and Machine Glaze. There was no way in hell I was going to spend $40/bottle on the 3m stuff at this time. Maybe in the future once I get better, and maybe pick up a name-brand rotary buffer.

 

I'll probably start in on it next week.

[J]

i buy all my shit from http://www.Glimmerglassdetailing.com

I use poorboys products and am pretty damn happy with them. I also use nattys blue paste wax, make sure you take your time with the clay and wash before you polish, or it'll just make things worse with holograms in the paint.

you're not ready for lambswool pads, i'm not even there yet, a good tip is to use less product than you think and let the buffer/pad work, if your forearms get sore you're pushng way tooo hard.

Also keep your pad a little moist, i use a foam pad conditioner for that, jsut a quick spritz.

WASH your pads really well after you use them with a soap designed to cut grease/wax. I used to use dawn powerSOMETHING but i can't find it and it takes me a while to get them clean with the soap i use now.

[slick]

Thanks for the tips Jay!