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jake91
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okay so i need brakes all 4 rotors are shot and rub while driving and then clunk while braking :lol:

 

 

 

so i want some sugestions on rotors and pads i want drilled/slotted rotors and good pads

 

what do you suggest

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R1 slotted rotors

 

drilled is not that much of an upgrade, if at all, due to the problems with the holes developing cracks and thereby weaking the rotor. dimpled doesn't have that issue, but slotted will make the biggest difference.

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R1 slotted rotors

 

drilled is not that much of an upgrade, if at all, due to the problems with the holes developing cracks and thereby weaking the rotor. dimpled doesn't have that issue, but slotted will make the biggest difference.

 

x2.

 

I've installed over 10 pairs of R1 concepts rotors and not a single person came back and said they warped. I've overheated the hell out of the pair on the Bonneville to the point of complete brake fade, without any warping. That, and EBC rotors are expensive as shit by comparison.

 

R1 all the way.

 

P.S. I did order EBC rotors from summit once. EBC somehow screwed up the part numbers on the box and I got f-body rotors.

 

As for pads, Bendix CT3's and Akebono Pro-Act Ultra Premiums are by far two of the best pads you can get for our cars, both of which are available on rockauto.

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Does R1 concept make pads? I am running on Wagners.

 

They only make rotors, and bundle some cheap pads. I tried their pads out on the Bonneville and ended up returning them for a $20 refund, which is probably all they're worth.

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Just remember if there is anything you plan on "cheaping" out on, cheap out on the rotors, not the pads. Also, it is fairly rare that rotors physically warp, but rather they can develop hot spots, and the brakes no longer grab evenly. I had this happen to a set of white box rotors with the original pads on my Regal. After i had those replaced under warranty, I put a nice set of ceramics on and now the brakes are as smooth as a baby's ass.

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is $270+tax a decent price for those rotors and pads

 

Its obviously a low price for pads and rotors, but seriously, just find some good ceramics somewhere. Like I said, I tried out their pads and didn't like them one bit. Just find a good ceramic like one of the two I mentioned and you won't regret it.

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Honestly Jake, I dont think you need that much braking power for your car... If it were modded and you took it to the track alot... Then maybe... But the stock brakes are built for a stock car...

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Honestly Jake, I dont think you need that much braking power for your car... If it were modded and you took it to the track alot... Then maybe... But the stock brakes are built for a stock car...

i live in az we have a lot of bad drivers

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Honestly Jake, I dont think you need that much braking power for your car... If it were modded and you took it to the track alot... Then maybe... But the stock brakes are built for a stock car...

i live in az we have a lot of bad drivers

Simple, concise argument. :lol:

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I got a pair of Summit Racing c&d rotors and Hawk Perf. pads for my old 1500 p/u and loved that set up. brake perf was outstanding. going all 4 corners on my cutty if the price is right

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slotted only since robert said drilled crack

 

 

Like I said, drilled and slotted rotors on my Bonneville GXP overheated to the point where they wouldn't even slow the car down and you could see the smoke coming out of the pads behind you, and the they didn't warp or crack. I doubt you'll ever encounter a situation where your brakes will take more than that load.

 

Cracked drilled rotors only show up on places like porsche, corvette, or f-body forums where people track race their cars and wear out half a set of pads in half an hour. I doubt you'll be doing that to your vert.

 

Honestly Jake, I dont think you need that much braking power for your car... If it were modded and you took it to the track alot... Then maybe... But the stock brakes are built for a stock car...

 

Stock brakes for a stock car, which is heavy and has under-powered brakes from factory. Hmm...

 

The regal has drilled PowerStop rotors on the front with 85k miles on them (before R1 Concepts appeared) and blank R1 rotors on the rear. Front and rear have Akebono Pro-Act Ultra Premiums. I had Bendix CT-3's on the fronts before and I LOVED them. The only thing about them is that they will smoke up under very heavy driving, but they stop you on a dime, which is a lot to say for a w-body with stock rotors.

 

The Bonneville has R1 Concepts drilled and slotted front and rear, with Friction Master pads front and rear. I have a new set of Akebonos on the front waiting to be put on when the current ones wear out. The Friction Master pads are alright, but they did overheat and give out that one time, and squeal when hot, which is a bit annoying.

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