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Code help


MonteCarloChick
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A couple days ago I got a code for O2 sensors. I replaced both up and downstream. Just yesterday I also replaced the plugs and wires. Now the car is shuddering at idle for about 5-15 seconds then it evens out. Plus it's showing a code which read system too lean, bank 1.

 

 

Diagnosis? Ideas?

 

Thanks!!

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Ok, cleaned my existing MAF, reinstalled with no change in the code after it was cleared. Car is still idling rough off and on. It seems to idle the worst after about the 3rd start (bucking, jerking etc, then smoothing out after about 3 minutes). It ran fine last night on my way home and this afternoon when I went to leave and start the car, it didn't start. It would go to turn over but wasn't. I cleaned a spare MAF from a '96 3100 Corsica, installed and also no avail. Car still doesn't start.

 

Ok this is her boyfriend.... and this is the touchy/feely part.

 

I checked hoses, lines etc, all connections are solid, all joints are solid. no tears, rips, cracks, or anything out of the norm except one...

 

With your hand on transmission dipstick tube, follow it straight down until you hit a bolt on the manifold heat shield. take your hand off the dipstick tube, move 1" towards passenger fender, I can feel a hose/line, approx 1/8" that isn't connected to anything. It feels like it originates from a T or elbow near the #3 and #5 plug boots.

 

Thanks in advance, this shit is foreign to me.. I drive an 85 Monte. WTF to OBD II

 

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The line that gos to the MAP sensor is routed back there and it could cause issues without setting a MAP code. Mine did (96 3100 GP) theres also a couple EVAP lines back there but that would set a code specific to the EVAP system and would have no effect on driveability... I'd jack it up and look underneath the car behind the manifold with a flashlight and follow the unplugged line...

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The line that gos to the MAP sensor is routed back there and it could cause issues without setting a MAP code. Mine did (96 3100 GP) theres also a couple EVAP lines back there but that would set a code specific to the EVAP system and would have no effect on driveability... I'd jack it up and look underneath the car behind the manifold with a flashlight and follow the unplugged line...

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Yeah, those are the lines for the EVAP solenoid and vent solenoid. It SHOULD go the the purge solenoid IIRC. But its been a while, so it could go the the vent solenoid. Hell, theres only 2 things back there for it to go to :lol:

 

You can remove them both after removing the coil pack and ICM. They are one a bracket that lifts right off the studs.

 

I had to replace the cracked hoses for them on my 96 ages ago.

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Thanks. There's no way I can jack the car up and get under it. It's in my small garage right up against the front wall. I'll have to try that this weekend. I really appreciate the help

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No problem, should just the 4 bolts to remove the ICM/coilpack and then the bracket that hold the EVAP solenoids on..

 

Once the ICM is outta the way you should see right at everything and have it fixed in no time.

 

When in doubt, your emissions line routing sticker under the hood will tell you where everything needs to go.

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My fiance's parents Lumina had the exact same hose on there car crack and come apart. Very similar symptoms, however the fuel pump was also on it's way out. Doubtful that it's the same for you, but it's a good sized vacuum leak.

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Yup, probably just popped out of the little rubber connector.

 

Where it comes together, even I couldn't squeeze my small arms back there. I rocked the engine forward, and it gave me all the room to do what I needed.

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First picture is what we were originally talking about. It originally faced downward. The second picture is something we found on the firewall. It also faced downward.

 

 

What do these connect to? If anything

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