88red4cyl Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 I am getting code P0455 on my 2006 Monte Carlo (3500 v6).. When I bought the car, the SES light was on for this same code.. I replaced the gas cap and cleared the code, and it was gone for the last 150 miles... Then this morning, the light blinks back on, and its that code again (no I haven't gotten gas recently either, so there is no chance the cap could be loose)... The guy at auto zone said it was probably a vacuum leak somewhere, and not to worry about it.. However, since the SES light is on, my remote start no longer works and I want the light off anyhow... Where is a good place to start looking? I'm not sure where possible vacuum leaks could be which would throw this code.. Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotrodolds Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 The evap canister purge valve can fail, and cause that. Just for the fun of it, though, loosen and retighten the gas cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted August 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 The evap canister purge valve can fail, and cause that. Just for the fun of it, though, loosen and retighten the gas cap. I did that a little whole ago... Thought maybe someone tried to steal gas or something... Light/message (Tighten Fuel Cap) is still on though... Where is the evap canister on this car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 The evap canister purge valve can fail, and cause that. Just for the fun of it, though, loosen and retighten the gas cap. I did that a little whole ago... Thought maybe someone tried to steal gas or something... Light/message (Tighten Fuel Cap) is still on though... Where is the evap canister on this car? Do what I just did this weekend on my GFs 06 Impala with a P0455... Delete the code outta the PCM :lol: Ahh, HP Tuners rocks!!! No, but this kinda reminds me, I gotta hope on Identifix and check out the most common reason for it. I will post back with more info if I find something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 Pattern fix confirmed... Replace EVAP Vent Solenoid, reset light.. They stick and fail alot.. Apparently its in a location that gets wet easily to direct road water which doesnt help. I have the actual diag steps, but unless you have a Tech2 scantool or something better than a $300 actron (ie you need a Modis and the like) it wont be any help from you.. You have to command the vent solenoid and monitor tank pressure sensor voltage and the like.. Hmm, that reminds me, i can do that with HPT... Damn, means I gotta set custom PIDs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted August 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 Pattern fix confirmed... Replace EVAP Vent Solenoid, reset light.. They stick and fail alot.. Apparently its in a location that gets wet easily to direct road water which doesnt help. I have the actual diag steps, but unless you have a Tech2 scantool or something better than a $300 actron (ie you need a Modis and the like) it wont be any help from you.. You have to command the vent solenoid and monitor tank pressure sensor voltage and the like.. Hmm, that reminds me, i can do that with HPT... Damn, means I gotta set custom PIDs Thanks Bob! How hard is it to get to the vent solenoid? EDIT- I hopped on gmpartsdirect, and I can not find a vent solenoid to purchase... I found a solenoid valve though... Is this what you are talking about that fails? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted August 6, 2009 Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 the Evap canister is usually in the back by the gas tank. Has several vac lines coming from it. About the size of a small coffee can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted August 6, 2009 Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 Pattern fix confirmed... Replace EVAP Vent Solenoid, reset light.. They stick and fail alot.. Apparently its in a location that gets wet easily to direct road water which doesnt help. I have the actual diag steps, but unless you have a Tech2 scantool or something better than a $300 actron (ie you need a Modis and the like) it wont be any help from you.. You have to command the vent solenoid and monitor tank pressure sensor voltage and the like.. Hmm, that reminds me, i can do that with HPT... Damn, means I gotta set custom PIDs Thanks Bob! How hard is it to get to the vent solenoid? EDIT- I hopped on gmpartsdirect, and I can not find a vent solenoid to purchase... I found a solenoid valve though... Is this what you are talking about that fails? Call your local dealer, should be like $50... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloick Posted August 6, 2009 Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 im on my fourth gas cap in my regal. i get about a year out of them. all from the dealer too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted August 6, 2009 Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 im on my fourth gas cap in my regal. i get about a year out of them. all from the dealer too. Thats cause you need a new filler neck.. the seat on the filler neck over time has gotten small tiny pits in it which wears the hell outta the seal on the gas cap.. Even if it looks ok, the surface has still gotten rough enough to cause excessive wear on the seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloick Posted August 6, 2009 Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 im on my fourth gas cap in my regal. i get about a year out of them. all from the dealer too. Thats cause you need a new filler neck.. the seat on the filler neck over time has gotten small tiny pits in it which wears the hell outta the seal on the gas cap.. Even if it looks ok, the surface has still gotten rough enough to cause excessive wear on the seal. eh, gas caps are cheaper. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted August 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 Pattern fix confirmed... Replace EVAP Vent Solenoid, reset light.. They stick and fail alot.. Apparently its in a location that gets wet easily to direct road water which doesnt help. I have the actual diag steps, but unless you have a Tech2 scantool or something better than a $300 actron (ie you need a Modis and the like) it wont be any help from you.. You have to command the vent solenoid and monitor tank pressure sensor voltage and the like.. Hmm, that reminds me, i can do that with HPT... Damn, means I gotta set custom PIDs Thanks Bob! How hard is it to get to the vent solenoid? EDIT- I hopped on gmpartsdirect, and I can not find a vent solenoid to purchase... I found a solenoid valve though... Is this vent solenoid valve are two completely different things? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted August 6, 2009 Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 I cant say forsure if what gmpartsdirect lists as solenoid valve is correct (I personally checked) I would call the dealer, check price, ask for the part number and then enter the part number on gmpartsdirect and compare prices. Its not too hard to get to, but Im sure you have to remove or lower the canister a bit to gain access to remove it.. Ill check Mitchell tomorrow and get some pictures, im pretty sure I can get the PN and MSRP off Mitchell as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted August 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 Thanks Bob, I really appreciate it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted August 6, 2009 Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 go to gmotors.com and fill out the form, request a charcoal canister VENT valve. This is a cylinder-shaped unit with an internal filter that when it fails, usually sticks open and the tank never holds a vacuum. PCM thinks it's just a big leak. Do not confuse this with the purge valve that is under the hood. I replaced the vent valve on my father's '07 Sierra with 60k... GM switched to a different design with the trucks, not sure about cars. If you want to test it, you can pull it off the car and apply +12V to one terminal and ground the other. The solenoid should click and prevent any air from passing (try blowing thru it). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted August 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2009 go to gmotors.com and fill out the form, request a charcoal canister VENT valve. This is a cylinder-shaped unit with an internal filter that when it fails, usually sticks open and the tank never holds a vacuum. PCM thinks it's just a big leak. Do not confuse this with the purge valve that is under the hood. I replaced the vent valve on my father's '07 Sierra with 60k... GM switched to a different design with the trucks, not sure about cars. If you want to test it, you can pull it off the car and apply +12V to one terminal and ground the other. The solenoid should click and prevent any air from passing (try blowing thru it). Is this the thing up by the gas filler neck inside the driver rear fender? Does the whole cylinder shaped unit need to be replaced, or is it just a valve on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted August 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2009 Bump and another question... Where is the purge valve located at under the hood/what does it look like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted August 8, 2009 Report Share Posted August 8, 2009 go to gmotors.com and fill out the form, request a charcoal canister VENT valve. This is a cylinder-shaped unit with an internal filter that when it fails, usually sticks open and the tank never holds a vacuum. PCM thinks it's just a big leak. Do not confuse this with the purge valve that is under the hood. I replaced the vent valve on my father's '07 Sierra with 60k... GM switched to a different design with the trucks, not sure about cars. If you want to test it, you can pull it off the car and apply +12V to one terminal and ground the other. The solenoid should click and prevent any air from passing (try blowing thru it). Is this the thing up by the gas filler neck inside the driver rear fender? Does the whole cylinder shaped unit need to be replaced, or is it just a valve on it? Should be... it should have about a 1/2 dia hose going to it, along with a 2-wire harness. I think the whole assembly is sold but technically you can replace just the valve, but it's near impossible to find like that. You may be able to find the valve in other vehicle platforms though. The purge valve is smaller and also has 2 wires going to it IIRC. It normally is connected to a rubber hose (coming from the charcoal canister) and a larger vacuum line that routes to somewhere on the intake manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted August 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2009 go to gmotors.com and fill out the form, request a charcoal canister VENT valve. This is a cylinder-shaped unit with an internal filter that when it fails, usually sticks open and the tank never holds a vacuum. PCM thinks it's just a big leak. Do not confuse this with the purge valve that is under the hood. I replaced the vent valve on my father's '07 Sierra with 60k... GM switched to a different design with the trucks, not sure about cars. If you want to test it, you can pull it off the car and apply +12V to one terminal and ground the other. The solenoid should click and prevent any air from passing (try blowing thru it). Is this the thing up by the gas filler neck inside the driver rear fender? Does the whole cylinder shaped unit need to be replaced, or is it just a valve on it? Should be... it should have about a 1/2 dia hose going to it, along with a 2-wire harness. I think the whole assembly is sold but technically you can replace just the valve, but it's near impossible to find like that. You may be able to find the valve in other vehicle platforms though. The purge valve is smaller and also has 2 wires going to it IIRC. It normally is connected to a rubber hose (coming from the charcoal canister) and a larger vacuum line that routes to somewhere on the intake manifold. ' Yep, that's what it looks like... Any idea where the purge valve may be on this car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted August 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2009 I am getting a ticking noise inside the cabin, and I saw a tsb related to the purge valve grounding out and transferring the noise through the coolant tubes into the cabin or something like that... I can hear the tick lightly under the hood, and it sounds like it is coming from the rear head area... Noise only appears after you drive though... If you just start the car and idle it, the noise isn't there... As soon as you rev the motor or drive though, the noise appears... Not sure if this would be consistent with the purge valve operation though (I have no idea how it works or what it does)... I'm also not 100% sure about this, but I don't recall hearing the noise prior to the SES light appearing either... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted August 9, 2009 Report Share Posted August 9, 2009 I am getting a ticking noise inside the cabin, and I saw a tsb related to the purge valve grounding out and transferring the noise through the coolant tubes into the cabin or something like that... I can hear the tick lightly under the hood, and it sounds like it is coming from the rear head area... Noise only appears after you drive though... If you just start the car and idle it, the noise isn't there... As soon as you rev the motor or drive though, the noise appears... Not sure if this would be consistent with the purge valve operation though (I have no idea how it works or what it does)... I'm also not 100% sure about this, but I don't recall hearing the noise prior to the SES light appearing either... fix the vent solenoid... its causing the purge solenoid to overwork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted August 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2009 I am getting a ticking noise inside the cabin, and I saw a tsb related to the purge valve grounding out and transferring the noise through the coolant tubes into the cabin or something like that... I can hear the tick lightly under the hood, and it sounds like it is coming from the rear head area... Noise only appears after you drive though... If you just start the car and idle it, the noise isn't there... As soon as you rev the motor or drive though, the noise appears... Not sure if this would be consistent with the purge valve operation though (I have no idea how it works or what it does)... I'm also not 100% sure about this, but I don't recall hearing the noise prior to the SES light appearing either... fix the vent solenoid... its causing the purge solenoid to overwork. I didn't know that could happen... I can feel the pulsation if I touch the coolant tubes going into the cabin, but I can also feel it if I touch the upper intake... Would the noise increase with engine speed if its the purge valve? I am going to listen inside the engine compartment while my wife revs the engine to see if I can hear it getting faster or not... As soon as you get over about 1000 rpms you lose the noise inside the cabin... I also noticed that it takes about a minute or so to appear from start up... Then if you shut the car off, and turn it right back on, the noise isn't there (at least not audible inside the cabin) until it runs for a little bit.. What does the purge valve do anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted August 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2009 Did you happen to get a part # Bob? I tried the gmotors site, and they never got back to me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted August 10, 2009 Report Share Posted August 10, 2009 Did you happen to get a part # Bob? I tried the gmotors site, and they never got back to me... nope... just call a dealer and they can hook ya up. i just used HPT to disable the codes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted August 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2009 Did you happen to get a part # Bob? I tried the gmotors site, and they never got back to me... nope... just call a dealer and they can hook ya up. i just used HPT to disable the codes Gmotors finally got back to me... The part # they gave me is 25932569... GM list price is $34, and cheapest I can get it online with shipping is $31... Looks like I'm off to the GM dealer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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