jake91 Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 okay my drivers rear brake is dragging. so i figure i need to replace the brakes. so what parts do i need is it just a caliper, pads, and rotor. also how do you do brakes on our cars thanks jake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 Pull the wheel off and replace what is bad Make sure it isn't just your parking brake cable getting hung up before you replace a caliper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake91 Posted March 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 if the parking brake was hung up. wouldnt that lock up both rear wheels. and i dont know how to remove and replace brakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldscsc Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 It's a PITA if you have to use pliers. You should only need to replace pads and maybe shoes??? I've only done brakes once. You should only need to replace a rotor if one is warped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake91 Posted March 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 the rotor is a little grooved, and my nieghbor should have the tool i need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 if the parking brake was hung up. wouldnt that lock up both rear wheels. and i dont know how to remove and replace brakes Not necessarily. There is one cable going to each rear caliper. Check and make sure the cable going to your affected caliper isn't hung up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake91 Posted March 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 i will check, but i doubt it is because i have put the brake on and off around 10 times since this started. also nick im blaming this on you. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 This has nothing to do with me, I didn't touch your LQ1 ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake91 Posted March 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 im joking. it just funny that it started about 30 minutes after i gave you ride in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 They all break as soon as I touch them! W-bodies hate me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake91 Posted March 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 They all break as soon as I touch them! W-bodies hate me. <3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake91 Posted March 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 would anyone recommend (NOT) using used calipers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 Make sure to get the hardware kit and grease up the bolts with anti-seize lubricant. You'll thank me later for both of those. If you live in the midwest or anywhere that cars rust, I would also get the caliper bolts and sleeves for the rear calipers. Those tend to seize up very easily, and they're a total bitch to work on once they do. RAYBESTOS Part # H5056 for the rear bolts and sleeves, RAYBESTOS Part # H5621A for the rear hardware kit, and RAYBESTOS Part # H5586A for the front hardware kit Trust me when I say these are not things you should try to cheap out on, having had to deal with the brakes on my regal (which now has 196,000 miles) for the last 134k miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake91 Posted March 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 ok thanks. i was just going the cheap route because i have $300 to my name and no job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 ok thanks. i was just going the cheap route because i have $300 to my name and no job Alright, then at least check the bolts and sleeves and lube them up really well. It may sound like a lot, but the extra $30 is well worth it. If those bushings go and you don't replace them fast, those sleeves will rust, and when they sieze up to the calipers, you'll be in w-body ass-intruding hell trying to get them out, after you've unevenly worn through a pair of brake pads and ground your rotor to a pulp. 196,000 miles and my original calipers currently aren't dragging or wearing the pads unevenly, but that wasn't how it was before I learned my lesson. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 He's in AZ, rust shouldn't be an issue. Agreed though, grease up those sliders! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake91 Posted March 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 i will just go new for ease mabey i can make a deal with my mom and she will pay for some Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake91 Posted March 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 awesome autozone is doing 25% off brake components with a purchase of pads. would i have to grease up something new like this since it says anti seize hardware http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?itemIdentifier=56674_0_2362_&skuDescription=Fenco+Reman+/+Brake+Caliper+-+Rear&brandName=Fenco+Reman&displayName=Brake+Caliper+-+Rear&categoryNValue=&sortType=&store=3253&isSearchByPartNumber=&fromWhere=&fromString=&itemId=prod11144&navValue=14400853&filterByKeyWord=&productId=56674&appQuestionText=&searchText=&categoryDisplayName=Brakes+%26+Traction+Control&parentId=cat10005&questions=%5B%5D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 awesome autozone is doing 25% off brake components with a purchase of pads. would i have to grease up something new like this since it says anti seize hardware http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?itemIdentifier=56674_0_2362_&skuDescription=Fenco+Reman+/+Brake+Caliper+-+Rear&brandName=Fenco+Reman&displayName=Brake+Caliper+-+Rear&categoryNValue=&sortType=&store=3253&isSearchByPartNumber=&fromWhere=&fromString=&itemId=prod11144&navValue=14400853&filterByKeyWord=&productId=56674&appQuestionText=&searchText=&categoryDisplayName=Brakes+%26+Traction+Control&parentId=cat10005&questions=%5B%5D Quick question, how did you decide 100% sure that the rear caliper is seized up? Have you tried turning it while pushing it back in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake91 Posted March 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 not sure as of yet. im just trying to get things planned out in case. because i need my car on the road by wednesday, and i only have today to work on it. what do i need to try turning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 not sure as of yet. im just trying to get things planned out in case. because i need my car on the road by wednesday, and i only have today to work on it. what do i need to try turning Pliers. I used a channel-lock to turn them and push them in at the same time. Not the easiest job, but it did the trick. Try to take them off and figure out exactly what's wrong before you shell out $120 for a new caliper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 I would get the proper square brake tool. I've used pliers before, but if the cylinder is particularly stuck, the pliers will slip and they will damage the boot. It's kind of a bitch but the square tool is less of a bitch than pliers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 I would get the proper square brake tool. I've used pliers before, but if the cylinder is particularly stuck, the pliers will slip and they will damage the boot. It's kind of a bitch but the square tool is less of a bitch than pliers. That's ultimately the best way to do it. I just never had the proper square brake tool available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 Being that his car is a 94, do his piston even have the turn-in style pistons? I thought 94+ just pushed in with a C-clamp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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