94LuminaZ34 Posted November 19, 2008 Report Share Posted November 19, 2008 I just got my 94 z34 3.4L registered and insured and it got hot. I tested the fans and I can get the passenger side to come on when i jump the relay but not the drivers side, I have power all the way down to the fan and I even wired the fan up to a battery and nothing so I'm thinking a dead motor? I need to know which fan is the primary #1 fan,is it the driver or passenger? Wll the fan motors out of a 3.1 lumina fit mine? There are no 3.4s in the wrecking yard. Is there anyway to test fan motors with a ohm meter? Would it be alright if I just remove the relay and wire jump the fan that works untill I get the other fixed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted November 19, 2008 Report Share Posted November 19, 2008 I just got my 94 z34 3.4L registered and insured and it got hot. I tested the fans and I can get the passenger side to come on when i jump the relay but not the drivers side, I have power all the way down to the fan and I even wired the fan up to a battery and nothing so I'm thinking a dead motor? I need to know which fan is the primary #1 fan,is it the driver or passenger? Wll the fan motors out of a 3.1 lumina fit mine? There are no 3.4s in the wrecking yard. Is there anyway to test fan motors with a ohm meter? Would it be alright if I just remove the relay and wire jump the fan that works untill I get the other fixed? You seem to have it figured out. Drivers side Fans for a 94 and 95 LQ1 are only used on LQ1 cars. I upgraded my radiators in a 94 and 95 3100 car to use thicker LQ1 rads, and had to use the donor car drivers side fan. I have an extra. can you remove and take a picture of yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94LuminaZ34 Posted November 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2008 I'm going to remove it this weekend, right now I need to drive it to work and back. I removed the relay and put a fused jumper so the passenger side fan (secondary?) comes on with the ignition and runs all the time. I put a 30 amp fuse is this too much or too little? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94LuminaZ34 Posted November 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2008 Turns out the fan was just gummed up. I was able to take it apart and clean and now it seems to be working, but I have a question about when it is supposed to turn on, mine turns on when the needle hits the 3/4 mark is this correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted November 22, 2008 Report Share Posted November 22, 2008 good! it varies car to car.... the gauges are definitely NOT precision instruments... but that sounds about right... specifically.. our vehicles vary the turn on temps depending if the a/c is on or not.... but i have two different cars with basically the same cluster as yours, and their fans turn on between 5/8 and 7/8, but to vary even between two identical vehicles... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldscsc Posted November 22, 2008 Report Share Posted November 22, 2008 Stock thermostat is 195*, so somewhere around there one should kick on. Also, one fan will kick on when you turn the A/C on no matter what the temperature. I was told only one fan takes on cooling duties and the other is for emergency cooling. Not sure about the integrity of this statement but that's what I was told. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94LuminaZ34 Posted November 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2008 OK I finally found in my manual that the primary fan should come on at 230 degrees. So are these motors supposed to run that hot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldscsc Posted November 22, 2008 Report Share Posted November 22, 2008 They should only get that hot when sitting in traffic. Running and driving it should be a consistent ~ 180*. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94LuminaZ34 Posted November 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2008 Yea it was mostly sitting in traffic it would cool down and run at the half mark when I was on the highway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldscsc Posted November 22, 2008 Report Share Posted November 22, 2008 Yea it was mostly sitting in traffic it would cool down and run at the half mark when I was on the highway. You could replace your thermostat with a 180* or 160* t-stat if you would like it to run cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted November 22, 2008 Report Share Posted November 22, 2008 Stock thermostat is 195*, so somewhere around there one should kick on. Also, one fan will kick on when you turn the A/C on no matter what the temperature. I was told only one fan takes on cooling duties and the other is for emergency cooling. Not sure about the integrity of this statement but that's what I was told. negative!!!! the primary fan is the drivers side fan. the secondary fan (passenger side) is the "a/c" fan. specifically, and I need to pre-face that different cars seem to have different fan settings... some car have the secondary turn on only if the a/c is on, and some as a full time backup for the primary. 230 is a normal turn on for the primary, and the secondary is usually set at 135 I believe. with the ac on, the fans may turn on 5 degrees sooner in both cases... or something like that.... Yea it was mostly sitting in traffic it would cool down and run at the half mark when I was on the highway. You could replace your thermostat with a 180* or 160* t-stat if you would like it to run cooler. NEGATIVE! You should only run a cooler T-stat if you tune your fans to turn on at a lower temperature(thermal shock is bad), don't mind the decrease in efficiency, and as has been stated with the 160 t-stat, that the engine runs too cold and may suffer pre-mature cylinder wall wear. http://60degreev6.com/content/Thermostat I'm going to keep this short, because its a simple concept. For years people have been spreading the word that a 160 stat will cause problems. This is true, as it hurts gas milage and MAY cause the cylinder walls to wear faster due to less expansion. If your fan turn on times aren't matched, it can allow a cycle of 160 to 220 degrees back and forth, which will contract and expand the cylinders. However, there is a myth in here as well. Open loop operation does not care if you have a 160, 180, or 195 degree stat. Closed loop is based on exhaust temp (O2 sensor working properly), coolant isn't below freezing (i have to look up the exact temp again...its really low though), and the time the car has been running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldscsc Posted November 22, 2008 Report Share Posted November 22, 2008 Two strikes...damn. This is why I need to stop trying to help people Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94LuminaZ34 Posted November 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2008 Crazy K Did you mean the secondary should come on at 135 or 235 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted November 22, 2008 Report Share Posted November 22, 2008 D'oh!!! 235 exact values may vary. Two strikes...damn. This is why I need to stop trying to help people It's ok. we still love you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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