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Found 256 results

  1. Basics- 96 Lumina 109k, 3100. Car has all new fuel lines, AC Delco fuel pump, fuel pump relay, new gas tank and new filler neck. I intermittently get this P1441 code when the car is cold and driven past 20 mph. It comes and goes as it pleases. I've done some research online but I'm not sure where to go in terms of diagnosis. Also- unsure if this is related. I am having a hard start issue once the car is up to operating temperature. When the car is cold, I have no issue at all. Would like to straighten this out if possible. Any insight is appreciated. Thanks.
  2. ive got a 93 lumina with ac problems wont blow cold air, ac compressor seems to engage but secondary fan wont run when ac is engaged would that be a problem ? someone told me the fan should engage when ac is turned on or possible relay problem and therfore system wont run and cool .....any help with this trying to do what I can before taking to shop and getting screwed for something simple .
  3. Hello all, I am wondering if anyone can direct me to where the rear power window fuse/relays are? I knew that the passenger side rear windows motor was probably on its way out (it was going up and down slowly), the drivers side rear window operated very all of a sudden neither window will go down no matter if I push the main controls near the drivers seat or the controls for each window in the backseat...I'm not sure what the issue could be...Iocated the fuse panel (inside the glove box) and also both fuse panels underneath the hood, however, I am not seeing anything in regards to the rear power windows. Is there any other place that there may be a fuse box located? When I push the buttons from the drivers seat all I seem to hear is a "clicking" sound and that's it...I'm sure that both motors couldn't have just gone out at the same time without I missing something? Thanks in advance. Trey
  4. Yeah one more cooling fan thread, but I couldn't find the answers by reading through the old ones. A few weeks ago I noticed the Cutlass would get hot while stuck in traffic and I had assumed it was the design of the water pump impeller being inferior, but its actually my fans that are not activating at the right temperature. I have confirmed power at the relay and also purchased a new one just in case. I have jumped the fans off the battery and they also activate when full AC is on I have changed the coolant temperature sensor on the thermostat housing. They still do not come on normally, Is there something I`m missing or forgot to check and can anyone point me in the direction of what to try next? This is on the 1994 Cutlass 3100
  5. Mel87

    Blinker relay?

    Went to Dunkin Donuts this morning and noticed the my right blinker isn't blinking. Just a solid state on. When I got home I tried to diagnose it. The hazards will blink it, but when I use the blinker lever it wont. There are no bulbs out so it brought me to the conclusion of a bad relay maybe? I remember years ago it happened to my uncles Dodge truck. Would that be what it is and if so where is the relay located? Also it won't blink even with the headlights on.
  6. I've gone through the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual but have come to a dead end. I'll write a quick outline of what's going on. Ignition off and parking lights switched on: The front turn lights come on, both sides. Ignition on, parking lights off, and activating left and right turn signals: Left and right work properly. Ignition on, parking lights on, and activating left and right turn signals: The signal lights work on both sides, but never go fully off because they are lit by the parking light. It seems that something is using the turn lights to find an earth, but when I take out all the turn bulbs, I find nothing that has stopped working. Here's the dead end...... In the Haynes manual wiring diagrams, I see that there is only ONE park/turn bulb. Its function seems to be determined by either a park-turn relay or by a 'module' with diodes in it. I assume that this bulb functions as a parking light (sidelight in GB English) until the indicator is activated, when it indicator bulb. When the signal is cancelled, it goes back to being a sidelight/parking light.....I assume, still. But on our Regal, there are TWO bulbs in the plastic lamp units next to each headlamp, not just one. The four bulbs in these two units are orange. There is evidence of someone having worked on all the front lamp wiring.....plastic connectors, sticky tape and so on. I will take all this crappy re-wiring off and re-do it properly, but first I need to know: What is the original setup of the front park/turn lights system on this model? What should be happening? It's a 91 Regal Coupe Limited, 3.1 engine. Has someone possibly taken turn/parking lamp units (with dual bulbs) from a different model and tried to bypass the park/turn relay/module, and failed miserably? I can pop round to the auto electric chap if necessary and translate the English into Polish for him, but it makes sense to ask here first to get as well-prepared as possible. Cheers!
  7. NEED HELP. Cannot get this car started. 1991 regal 3.8l 200k miles I changed my fuel pump as it died last week. Found the fuse to be blown as well- changed that. I hear the fuel pump relay click. I get power to the relay. but the pump does not want to turn on. When I connect a 12v supply to the pump, it turns on and the car runs. where is the problem? a short? from the relay to the pump??? thanks for suggestions.
  8. So it's me, the FNG . i found this forum ( and glad I did ) Googling for a wiring diagram for a 92 Cutlass Supreme fuel pump wiring diagram. parked my car at a restaurant the other night and no start when I came out to go home. Got it home today. I have owned a Supreme of one vintage or another since 94 so not a total newbie. Made a Snap On Payment from '75 til '11 so have some tools and some knowledge. I have no power to the fuel pump relay on either the energizer circuit or the operating circuit. Pump/ ECM fuse is good in r/s fuse box. Can't find any other fuses blown. Anyone have a diagram so I can see where power SHOULD be coming from for the energizer circuit and the operating circuit ? My ( probably faulty) memory tells me the energizer circuit should be hot 7-10 second after key goes to run position and operating circuit should be hot as long as the key is in the run position. No juice in either hole on the relay spot in the fuse box. Any ideas ? Thanks
  9. I al now attempting on getting my fog light working in my car since I have never seen them work before. While finding out that my horn fuse blew I came across the fog light relay and I decided to check it out. When I flick the switch I hear the relay being thrown. Seeing that this portion of the fog light system works I am hoping that its just the bulbs that are burnt out all this time, probably for the past ten years. What I am wondering is how hard is it to change the bulbs as well as changing one of the fixtures? Are the fog lights on the 4 Dr models the same as the 2 Dr models? The glass lens on my driver side fixture is cracked. If that's all that is wrong with the fog lights ill be a happy camper. On that note how big is the difference with the fog lights being on as opposed to them being off or in my case broken? I am hoping that changing the bulbs in these are a lot easier then changing out headlight bulbs, what a mess that was. Also does anyone have experience in using LED bulbs in the high mount center brake light? I don't want to spend $10 per bulb for the normal ones.
  10. Hey gang, while replacing the old (manufactured in 96') pioneer headunit in gf's 94' Grand Prix with something more modern today, I decided to check out a longstanding issue. The blower works on speeds 1,2, and 3, but not on 4. After probing around with the old multimeter, it kind of seems like those speeds go through the resistor, but the full power High speed bypasses it. I suspect either the relay or the switch, but I no longer have access to any kind of repair manuals since I quit being a car mechanic. I was hoping someone else had the same issue at some point or could post up the wiring diagram for the hvac system, it's just the standard hvac control head, not the digital one.
  11. I have a 1994 Cutlass Supreme convertible. The car is a 1 owner, Florida car. The outer door handles have become completely inoperable on both sides. I believe the problem is an electrical one and not a mechanical adjustment of the handles and door locks. For a while the problem was limited to the passenger door only, and because of that the outer handle had been broken off and replaced. In the past month the problem has migrated to the driver's side door now, and has become ridiculous to have to leave a window down in order to get into the car. Throughout all of this the inner door handles work perfectly to open the doors in all configurations. I have read all of the posts regarding unplugging the Chime Box from the door lock circuit, but my problem does not seem to be related to the automatic locking and unclocking of the doors depending upon whether you're driving, in gear or starting or turning off the car. There seems to be a secondary electrical circuit that controls whether or not the outer handles will open the doors. If it is very quiet, you can hear a distinct "click" if you try an outer handle, and the latching mechanism will simply not function using the outer door handles. The inner door handles however will easily unlatch either door in any configuration of key on, key off, car running, car stopped, in gear, not in gear, etc.? I have a factory manual and have attempted to trouble shoot the elctrical circuits. Chasing electrical gremlins however is not my strong suit (I'm a "mechanical" guy)! Any help at trouble shooting, diagnosing or repairing this problem would be greatly appreciated. I'd love to identify the relay, switch, module, circuit or part that will fix this issue (the wife by the way, is running out of patience)! Thanks in advance for your interest in help. Marc in sunny Florida - constantly locked out!
  12. Hope this is the right thread as I couldn't find any forum that made mention of "Lighting" or "Electrical". Anyways, proud new owner of 2004 GTP Comp G. One thing I have noticed is that the fog lights "reset" every time the ignition is cycled. What I mean is that when I turn the key on, I must manually turn the fog lights on. That's fine, but once I cycle the ignition, the fog lights are off and must be manually turned on again. Every other vehicle I've ever driven with fog lights would "remember" that I had the fogs on and would turn them back on next time I used the car and would continue to do so unless I took some action to indicate that I no longer wanted them on (usually cycling the fog light switch again). Some had manual switches that you just leave in the on position (usually fed from the parking lights), others must have written the state of the fog lights to memory in a module. Neither seem to be the case with the Pontiac. So I ask, is there any way to get the car to remember my choice on fog lights staying on until I tell them to turn off? I am envisioning using a latching relay and some associated wiring but I'm hoping I am overlooking a simple solution. God, I need to get the FSM. Thanks in advance!
  13. I have a 1990 Lumina 3.1l MPFI 2 door base and the fuel pump has been staying on even after i turn the car off pulling the relay does nothing, pulling the fuse turns it off checked all wiring no breaks or groundings do i have a bad fuel pump? or maybe ecm?
  14. Is it normal to be able to remove the fuel pump relay while the engine is running and have the engine continue to run? If removing the fuel pump relay = engine/fuel supply should die, and it doesn't -- where would a good place for me to start investigating? Oil pressure sender?
  15. Hello All, This is a follow up to my recent post about my 1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme S 3.1 flooding. I replaced the ECM and the fuel injectors and it's still demonstrating the same behavior. If I pull the fuses for the fuel pump and the fuel injectors and pull the fuel pump relay I can usually get it started, albeit briefly. If I put the fuses and relay back in and try to start if floods almost immediately and I get gas coming out of the throttle body. I need to check the fuel pressure but any other ideas would be much appreciated. This one is starting to get challenging. Thanks kindly, Mike
  16. Hi, As most of you are aware, the battery terminals on many of the w-bodies are located below the washer fluid reservoir and below the intake air boot. This, of course, means that accessing the battery terminals for a jump start is highly inconvenient to impossible depending on what tools you have at your disposal at the time. The location of the auxiliary positive terminal is well documented on this site. But what about a spot to clamp the negative jumper cable? I have read several posts on here where someone has attached the negative cable to the dogbone mount on the engine without issue. I would prefer to perform a jump start by passing as little current as possible through the engine and its delicate electronics. Never mind that you have done it 25 times without issue, it only takes one loose ground or faulty relay, etc and now you have a major issue because you passed 100+ amps through a an electronic device not designed to handle that load. For this reason, I would like to attach the negative jumper cable somewhere on the frame, but I can not find a piece of bare metal to attach to that gives a low-resistance ground. I have charged the battery before by attaching the negative clamp of the charger to one of the hexagonal, hollow half-nuts that secure the cruise control module. It worked great. But the other day, I had to jump the car with the battery reading 9 volts with a 250 amp jump starter. The charger discharged normally but the car never really got much of a boost. Do I just need to bite the bullet and sand the paint off of an area in the engine compartment? Thanks!
  17. So on the side of the road, got it going for 2 seconds, got half a block and she dies. Running for 5 minutes right now, no stalls, but I addressed the issue with new coils, new icm and new ignition relay. Still dies? New lock cylinder a while ago too. Does not throw any codes
  18. My TGP made my trip home from work interesting. Brakes quit working while on freeway, brake light came on and I had very minimal braking power. Pump no longer engaged. The next morning(I made it home safely) brakes worked again just fine. Is this a relay? Pressure switch? There are no leaks, and accumulator is new.
  19. Reride

    '94 chime module

    I put a '94 chime module in my '92 CSC yesterday. I found a pin-out for it after searching the site and installed it ( had a hard figuring out schematic, but I did). The grn went to TSS, ppl went to turn sig., lt. blu went to lt. blu on pdl relay, and blk went to blk on pdl relay ( I didn't connect the oran/blk. wire). Everything works as it is suppose to except the auto lock. I switched the module out with another one and same results. Do these modules fail often? Or did I miss something? Thanks , Steve
  20. Just picked up a nearly new set of aftermarket headlight assemblies with HIDs already installed and ready to go. The setup looks plug and play, but before I install them, a few questions: 1. You're supposed to be able to just plug these into the stock harness and go. Any idea how well the harness will take to the HIDs? should I add a relay in the line at all? 2. I'd like to kill the DRLs to prolong the HID ballast life, and it looks like pulling a specific fuse will do the trick. Are there any side-effects I should be aware of if I kill the DRL? (i.e.-killing DRL also kills the light sensor on the dash) Thanks!
  21. I suspect it's the TSS, but basically when I flip the right blinker on, the relay clicks double the normal speed and there's no turn signal indicator on the dash. The front passenger turn signal doesn't flash but the back one does. Could have sworn I noticed a tiny little puff of smoke coming from the column but tried to smell it and there was no smell.... Already tried a new bulb up front. Does the turn signal switch have separate contacts for back and front?? Could it be something else? The wiring and socket both look fine.
  22. Ok my mom borrowed my cutlass the other day for work and I was working on her focus. When it started up that morning everything was fine, there was a weird slight screech towards the end of the starting process. But now it no start, it no crank. Thought the battery might have some issues and went to jump it, nothing. Full lights and they do not dim. However today I went to start it and as you turn the key right as the starter would usually engaged the lights and locks just went possessed and were flickering as if it were a loose battery connection. I could not get any kind of sound from the starter which makes me think it is something to do with the chip in the key(VATS?) or maybe the starter relay? Its still the original starter for the car and I had plans to replace with a newer one very soon but the battery needed replacement at the time first. Checked the ignition fuses(orange 40A) and they look ok. All connection are tight and corrosion free. So given the symptoms what would you guys look into first? Right now I can only afford a starter from a u pull it lot so is there anything in particular to gauge the state of the starter from the donor car other than mileage and visual wear? and were there some GM starters that were better on certain models of certain years?
  23. In my infinate wisdom I removed the cover on my RHS UEC so it wouldn't stop me from getting to the fuses and lost it. Today for the second time the Regal has failed to start when the temp dropped into the teens, there's no fuel at the rail so it's either A) Fuel Pump, B)Fuel Pump Relay, or C)PCM that doesn't like the cold. I'm assuming it's the PCM (First winter with this PCM) so I extracted it and have it on a heater but it'd be nice to know which of these is the relay so I can try swapping it if this doesn't work. It sould be one of the smaller ones but not sure if it's closest or furthest from the fender. Thanks in advance....
  24. Ok guys. I have run into a strange situation with my cutlass. So I just got the car. I love it. Its real clean and runs like a swiss clock. Anyways here is the problem. My left turn signal wasn't working when I got the car, but the right one and the hazard flashers are working fine. So i'm like ok, easy fix. there was an extra flasher switch in the car that was supposed to be good when I got it. So I pulled it out and tried the other one. IT didn't fix the problem. Now here comes the wierd part... I pulled the flasher switch out and for got to put it back in. I'm driving down the road and turn my left blinker on and it works??!! With no flasher in! Is there some second flasher relay some where that I dont know about?
  25. l67ss

    signal issue

    Po could not get the brake lights to work in the taillights only in back glass so they just ran a wire from the third brake light to the taillights in the process they managed to cross some wires so the blinkers do not work i put in all new bulbs fuses multifunction switch and relay still nothing the hazards do work and if i hold the brake they will come on but i hav to manually flash them its like theres no power to the blinker switch help please
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