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LQ1 Alternator Installation & Brace needed? (was: Alternator Bolt)


spiderw31
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Slick why are you being a dick? We talked on the phone about this.

 

I'm telling you on the 94+ style alternators you need to pull the axle. Simple as that. The cradle doesn't lower enough to give you the space you need.

 

Everyone's car in this thread has the smaller style alternator.

 

About 3 months ago.

 

And I told you, the first time I did it, I had to figure it out. Afterwards, I could get it in and out no problems. You have to rotate the alternator in the hole before it will come out. Once you have it rotated, it will slide out with plenty of room to play. I've told you this several times.

 

And I'm telling you it doesn't work.

 

It's much more time efficient (since I'm changing the alt only one time) to pull the CV.

 

I didn't have the driver's side strut tower installed so the cradle dropped a ton more removing the alt. than installing it. There is no way it was going in there.

 

There is no special rotation, trust me. Maybe your car came down more than mine. But it was not going in.

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It would not come directly out. Flipping it over 180* did the trick, as the mounts were able to be slipped out after the body of the alternator was out.

 

If you don't believe me, fine don't. However, there are countless members that have done it this way, no problem. In fact, there are 94+ 1 and 1.5 gen guys that have done it this way, no issue.

 

Take it for what it is.

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Trust me I tried tons of different ways trying to get it in. So did my buddy.

 

The alt I had also had the cooling duct "port" did yours?

 

Yes, several of mine had the port, but not the duct, it had already been taken off.

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My 91 international has a alternator cooling fan located in front of the pass. side wheel well, and a duct running along the the front frame rail to behind the alt.

 

You guys have it easy!!!

 

 

 

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My 91 international has a alternator cooling fan located in front of the pass. side wheel well, and a duct running along the the front frame rail to behind the alt.

 

You guys have it easy!!!

 

 

 

 

Fuckin' '91's.

 

You have the fan right?

 

 

Chris it's not that I don't believe you, but for someone doing it their first time it's easier to just pull the axle then shoehorn it in.

 

Maybe some cars it works on but I know mine it didn't.

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Engineers: Hey let's make this overly complicated yet effective fan here!

GM Big Whigs: Too much money, lets put this laughable cooling duct and have some asshole from Toledo who thinks he knows what he's doing have to lower the cradle to do the alt!

Engineer: UMMM.

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But in all seriousness it worked in my 91, but also needed to be rotated to fit.

 

Who knows with GM's fit and finish tolerances, there could be enough difference between vehicles that yours won't fit :lol:

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  • 6 years later...

So, I'm gonna necro-bump my own old thread here just to give everyone the "I told you so" moment.

 

Putting that rear bolt back in was stupid, and created a non-trivial amount of extra work for me recently. Now, I'm running with a working alternator that not only has no rear bolt, but the bracket is off too just to make sure I'm not stupid enough to put that stuff back in again. If the alternator casing or the mounting brackets crack I may rethink my position, but as of now I completely agree with everyone who recommended leaving the bolt out!

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GM did not become a major manufacturer by installing parts that weren't needed.

 

The bracket on the back of the alternator reduces vibration that could cause metal fatigue of the front mounting hardware and brackets; it allows the alternator to function with less vibration.

 

Sure, you can leave it off, or unbolted. You'll get away with that just fine...for awhile. Is it optimum? No. Just like the cooling air duct that some folks insist on leaving off--alternator failure is common enough, why would you tempt fate by reducing the cool air flow to/through the alternator?

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Just like the cooling air duct that some folks insist on leaving off--alternator failure is common enough, why would you tempt fate by reducing the cool air flow to/through the alternator?

 

You mean the ones that were left off later are because they were unnecessary or unneeded? :lol:

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I know for a fact my 94 didn't have it, but I think 92 or 93 was the last year, I'd have to have someone else back me up on that. Pretty sure my GTP doesn't have it, but with the condition I got the car in it may have been removed

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I know for a fact my 94 didn't have it, but I think 92 or 93 was the last year, I'd have to have someone else back me up on that. Pretty sure my GTP doesn't have it, but with the condition I got the car in it may have been removed

My '93 had the duct. GM changed alternators in '94...right? So GM considered the duct essential for the early series of alternator...and yet folks leave 'em off because they're too lazy to do the job properly.

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Thank you for bolding that, I didn't see the depth of your passion for alternator ducts previously.

 

On a serious note, I'm not trying to argue or disprove anything, I was just stating simply that the ones I've had have not had it

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via alldata(so reliable):

 

91: 10463565

92-93: 10463564

94-96: 10464065(supposedly with 95/96 lumina/monte carlo using 10463965, which has a 56mm pulley, as opposed to the 61mm pulley on the 2/3W)

97: 10463965

 

what actually happened, I don't know.

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  • 2 weeks later...

ugh, I tried to upgrade my 92 z34 alt to the dr44. I heard it was a self exciting alt so I was willing to test it out without a 4 to 2 pin adapter. I basically wasted my time because I followed the 45 min tutorial, however I couldn't fit the bigger alt in past the axle or tubing that runs along the upper wheel well. Anyone have tips for fitting a bigger alt in the 3.4? I've done plenty of engine work but when it comes to messing with rods and axles I'm clueless.

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