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high mileage oil ???


jake91
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Uh-Oh.......Fram bashing.....soooo.......if you don't like Fram, do you also not like the sister companies of Prestone, Bendix,and Autolite?...all owned by Allied-Signal........who is owned by........Honeywell?

 

Totally irrelevant and meaningless argument, however I like your car a lot.

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I only use an AC Delco PF47 and Mobil 1 Full synthetic 5w30 in my TGP. Nothing less. I have used these same products in every vehicle I've owned with no problems, and they all run flawlessly. Why mess with success?

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Uh-Oh.......Fram bashing.....soooo.......if you don't like Fram, do you also not like the sister companies of Prestone, Bendix,and Autolite?...all owned by Allied-Signal........who is owned by........Honeywell?

 

Totally irrelevant and meaningless argument, however I like your car a lot.

:smile: Never intended as an argument......but what say we *ring* the bell and just all agree to disagree on this particular item...and get back to offering Jake some helpful suggestions.. :cheers:
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I am running 0W40 in my Ranger.

 

0W40 acts as a 0WT when cold for better cold start-up lubrication, which is the most critical point in an engine's running time.

It also acts as a 40 weight when at operating temperature, so it protects PLENTY well.

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well since you moved to az you should switch to 10W30 because 5w30 is to light ive been told that by multiple shops

And the shops are all BS. 10w30 will do nothing for you versus 5w30, other than being thicker at start-up, which isn't a good thing. You want a less viscous oil for start-up so it starts circulating quickly. They will both act like a 30 weight when at operating temperature.

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Uh-Oh.......Fram bashing.....soooo.......if you don't like Fram, do you also not like the sister companies of Prestone, Bendix,and Autolite?...all owned by Allied-Signal........who is owned by........Honeywell?

 

Totally irrelevant and meaningless argument, however I like your car a lot.

:smile: Never intended as an argument......but what say we *ring* the bell and just all agree to disagree on this particular item...and get back to offering Jake some helpful suggestions.. :cheers:

 

:thumb:

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Uh-Oh.......Fram bashing.....soooo.......if you don't like Fram, do you also not like the sister companies of Prestone, Bendix,and Autolite?...all owned by Allied-Signal........who is owned by........Honeywell?

 

Totally irrelevant and meaningless argument, however I like your car a lot.

:smile: Never intended as an argument......but what say we *ring* the bell and just all agree to disagree on this particular item...and get back to offering Jake some helpful suggestions.. :cheers:

 

:thumb:

 

You seriously add nothing to this community besides your oh so hilarious sarcasm and witty remarks.

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Uh-Oh.......Fram bashing.....soooo.......if you don't like Fram, do you also not like the sister companies of Prestone, Bendix,and Autolite?...all owned by Allied-Signal........who is owned by........Honeywell?

 

Totally irrelevant and meaningless argument, however I like your car a lot.

:smile: Never intended as an argument......but what say we *ring* the bell and just all agree to disagree on this particular item...and get back to offering Jake some helpful suggestions.. :cheers:

 

:thumb:

 

You seriously add nothing to this community besides your oh so hilarious sarcasm and witty remarks.

 

WOO WOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! :lol:

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I'm gonna settle this debate... if you are only spending $5 on a Fram filter, yeah, your getting cardboard crap, but you get what you pay for. If you get the "guard" line of filters they are all steel construction..... Tonight when I change my oil, I will cut the damn filter in half just to put an end to this debate... stay tuned...

 

Jamie

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I had 15W-40 in my car because it was what I had sitting around when I did the lower intake gasket.

 

Just changed back to 0W-30 on the weekend, and woah, does it ever start easier now..

 

 

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I thought this was going to be a thread about high milage oil... not what type of oil do you use and lets hate on fram filters while were here.

 

I guess high milage oil just has some extra additives to swell your gaskets and "fill in" tiny scratches in the cylinder walls. Its junk imo and is basically the same oil with something like engine tune up in a bottle. You stop oil leaks by replacing gaskets and O-rings. You give yourself false hope when 5% of the time one of those bandaids work.

 

A good oil over any high milage oil would be something like amsoil. Amsoil still puts plenty of zinc and phosphorus (ZnDDP) in their oil which protects older cars flat tappet cams better.

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FWIW I used High Mileage Quaker State in my ex's Accent and it ran slightly better when the oil was new, but after a few weeks it ran just as well as any other oil.

 

I'm gonna settle this debate... if you are only spending $5 on a Fram filter, yeah, your getting cardboard crap, but you get what you pay for. If you get the "guard" line of filters they are all steel construction..... Tonight when I change my oil, I will cut the damn filter in half just to put an end to this debate... stay tuned...

 

Jamie

 

Good to my word, I took a hacksaw to my old Fram filter. I made a hell of a mess doing it too, lol.

 

CIMG5291.jpg

CIMG5293.jpg

CIMG5295.jpg

 

More pictures here - http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n81/GTP_MuNkY/Misc%20crap/

 

No cardboard, all steel construction... I'm gonna quote this post every time I see someone bitch about Fram filters from this day forward...

 

Jamie

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how about this drop the fram fight its not going any where i let it go for for awhile because i thought it would just blow over after a few posts but as i can see its not going to so why dont you help me out with my original question and forget about fram and just do what 55 trucker said earlier and we can agree to disagree

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ya thats their premium line, not one of the bright orange disasters (which i currently have on the prix)

 

The orange, basic grey (not the "X" series) and black Fram's ARE all of cardboard construction.

 

I have cut ALL of them open (and the the style here as well), and all the lower 3 are junk.

 

PLus, I can back up what was on the earlier linked oil filter article..............the Nissan SR20DE 4 cylinder in my old SE-R and my NX2K both have the filter in the TOP of the block, with screw in at a downward angle............they NEED to have a good anti-drainback valve, or they hammer away for a couple of seconds on a cold start. My dad used a Fram CLONE (Penzoil filter in this case) one time, and sure enough I got in, fired up the car and began to bitch at him about using a Fram or one of it's clone's............sure enough, I was right.

 

 

 

 

 

PLUS..........

 

I remember another W-Body member who did an air filter comparison a few years ago for a contruction comany he was interning with..............Fram AIR filter clogged up faster than ANY other brand test, AND didn't filter worth shit (and my OWN experience at my dealer agrees with the first part).

 

I'll have to see if I can find the link...........

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A bunch of smart :words:

 

For the love of God and all that is holy, thank you.

 

The Orange FRAMs are well understood to be COMPLETE TRASH. It doesn't take some sort of nuclear physicist to crack one open and see that cardboard permeated in oil = bad.

 

The very high end Extended Guard filters have overall good construction, but are subpar at filtering against even the cheapest Purolator... at a price that is typically higher than that of a PureONE. If you like wasting your money that's up to you, but don't be ignorant about it.

 

To be on topic, I've run SuperTech synthetic oil in all of my engines. Grand Prix's 3.1 ran perfect until the fuel pump died at 19x,xxx; Bonneville was always quiet at 150,xxx; Cutlass sounds good at 130,xxx; Regal's first 3800 let loose at 230,000 well abused miles, and I'd wager to bet it had absolutely nothing to do with the oil.

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THANK YOU, BIGBULS.

 

no one here is debating whether or not frams higher end filters are junk or not.

 

and furthermore, no one here is "hating" on the filters for no reason. simple fact is that the NON-EXTRAGUARD fram filters are overpriced junk, and that is a FACT, not an opinion.

 

Yes, I am well aware that "I've run them for years on every car I own" I could, in theory run oil changes 15,000 miles at a shot and still have a engine that would perform for years. But that isn't a very good idea now is it?

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