Improvised rear brake tool for 94 GP

[jrbakke]

Hey guys (and gals), I need to do a rear pad replacement, and I don't have a caliper piston tool available. I need some people's Ideas on improvised tools to get the job done. It only needs to work for both sides this one time. I do have a pretty good sized c-clamp available.

 

anyway, I would like to try to get this done tomorrow (Saturday, September 29th). If I absolutely have to, i can let it wait as long as this next Tuesday or Wednesday.

 

Thanks for any help

 

Jeremy

[ManicMechanic]

The tool was like $7.99 at Auto Zone.........

 

I've used needle nose pliers in a pinch though.

[xtremerevolution]

The tool was like $7.99 at Auto Zone.........

 

I've used needle nose pliers in a pinch though.

 

Just curious...is the piston supposed to be turned while its being pushed back in?

[jrbakke]

yes, the piston must be turned while being pushed back in. I'll check my local autozone and see if they have one. the $7.99 is that to buy or rent? Also, do you know the part#, or is it available Over-The-Counter/Off-the-Shelf? (most of the guys who work at my local AZ aren't all the brilliant when it comes to finding parts or tools on the system.

[gpchris]

Its like less than $10 to buy. It make it ALOT easier.

[xtremerevolution]

Well if its supposed to turn (from what I remember), then a C-clamp should do quite nicely. That's what I've used for the longest time, and it hasn't given me any problems at all. While turning the c-clamp, it also turns the piston while pushing it back in.

 

The last brake piston compressor tool I used broke on me after the first try, so I've been a bit reluctant to waste another $8-$10 when a big c-clamp can be had for $6.

[gpchris]

ya dont have to push, it turns in.

[DiscoStudd]

I never needed to use a C-Clamp to compress the piston on the rear calipers. I've always just used a pair of needle-nose pliers to turn the piston and it compressed while turning it. Place the jaws of the pliers inside the grooves of the "X" and spin...

[Hairdo12]

If you use the C clamp on those rear pistons you will be buying new calipers within the hour of completing the brake job. Get the tool for $8 and twist counter clockwise on the driver side and clockwise on the pasenger side. You will have to push in while you twist. To make the job easier, I crack open the bleeder valve a bit to relieve pressure while I twist the piston back in. I have never had to bleed the brakes aftwards, so there is not much to worry about opening that valve.

[BXX]

AutoZone rent-a-tool part number 27111 $35 deposit, you get it all back. It is the like 9 piece caliper service tool.

 

Yes, I was a competent AutoZone employee for almost 2 years

[GP1138]

AutoZone rent-a-tool part number 27111 $35 deposit, you get it all back. It is the like 9 piece caliper service tool.

 

Yes, I was a competent AutoZone employee for almost 2 years

 

Do this one, it's INSANELY easy.

 

If you don't, at LEAST buy the square tool... it makes it easier (and less painful) than using pliers... I've only ever torn up my knuckles and caliper piston boots using pliers.

[jrbakke]

Well, I got the front done after three days of fighting with a lug nut that was completely frozen on. I ended up drilling out the nut on both sides and splitting it with a hammer and chisel. now I have one lug on both front wheels that needs replaced, but I have to take of the wheel hubs for that. four lugs and nuts will keep the wheel on until I get the time and second lug (the one on the pass side has been missing since I got the car, I bought a lug and nut, but haven't taken the hub off yet to install it.) I'm in for lunch right now, I may run to the local AZ after lunch and get the tool so I can do the rear brakes. Thanks for the rent-a-tool part #. At least someones AZ has had competent staff. I think the local one here has a couple decent guys now. Well, I'm going to get some lunch. thanks for the advice.

 

 

[93CutlassSupreme]

I never needed to use a C-Clamp to compress the piston on the rear calipers. I've always just used a pair of needle-nose pliers to turn the piston and it compressed while turning it. Place the jaws of the pliers inside the grooves of the "X" and spin...

 

Strange.

 

I've never had a rear piston just "turn in." They're always stubborn biznaches and require quite a bit of "persuasion"

[BXX]

I never needed to use a C-Clamp to compress the piston on the rear calipers. I've always just used a pair of needle-nose pliers to turn the piston and it compressed while turning it. Place the jaws of the pliers inside the grooves of the "X" and spin...

 

Strange.

 

I've never had a rear piston just "turn in." They're always stubborn biznaches and require quite a bit of "persuasion"

 

Thats why the rent-a-tool from AZ is a lifesaver, and was the most rented out tool there (Was because I quit after getting sick and tired of working with idiots)

[93CutlassSupreme]

I never needed to use a C-Clamp to compress the piston on the rear calipers. I've always just used a pair of needle-nose pliers to turn the piston and it compressed while turning it. Place the jaws of the pliers inside the grooves of the "X" and spin...

 

Strange.

 

I've never had a rear piston just "turn in." They're always stubborn biznaches and require quite a bit of "persuasion"

 

Thats why the rent-a-tool from AZ is a lifesaver, and was the most rented out tool there (Was because I quit after getting sick and tired of working with idiots)

 

That tool doesn't always work.

[GutlessSupreme]

ya dont have to push, it turns in.

 

So you're one of the lucky ones. I've NEVER had the piston just "turn-in" on it's own.

 

If you use the C clamp on those rear pistons you will be buying new calipers within the hour of completing the brake job.

 

Not true.

 

I say this every time this topic comes up (which is like twice a month).. but what I do is I stick a very small block of wood under the end of the c-clamp on the piston. The wood will compress to fit the shape of the top of the piston and should turn it in when you turn the c-clamp.

 

However, renting the right tool from autozone should make this all a lot easier. that little $8 block with tabs on the side sucks.

[jrbakke]

Well, the brakes are done all the way around. I ended up buying one of the cube tools for $8.99 +tax. I figured it would be the best investment for now as my mother also has a newer W-body (02 or 03 Monte Carlo). Maybe later I will buy on of the more advanced tool kits as I (or my mother for that matter) don't believe in paying someone else to do something I am more than capable of doing myself with the appropriate tools handy. Next projects for the GP are struts(at least rear, maybe all the way around if I can get the tools) and tracking down the wiring problem in the speedometer circuit. Not to mention I have to tear down the front of the engine on my wife's 94 dodge Spirit to check the timing, hopefully that is what is wrong with it so we can get it up and running again too.

 

Well, I've rambled enough. If anyone else reads this and has any ideas or advice on the strut job let me know.

 

thanks for all the help!!!

[BXX]

Newer Monte won't need it. they have a parking brake shoe setup in the rear Rear caliper pistons just push right in

[jrbakke]

Okay, that's nice to know. My old Dodge Shadow CSX had the same type of set-up, parking brake shoes inside the rotor and discs for normal use, only problem was that the shoes for the PB were bad (the friction material separated from the plate) and I had to epoxy it back on, but the PB wouldn't hold after that. It took a bit of fanagling to get the adjustments right on each side, then getting the cable right too. I never did get both sides to hold, either one would be tight and the other would still turn, or both would turn. Oh well, it is someone else's problem now.

[93CutlassSupreme]

Okay, that's nice to know. My old Dodge Shadow CSX had the same type of set-up, parking brake shoes inside the rotor and discs for normal use, only problem was that the shoes for the PB were bad (the friction material separated from the plate) and I had to epoxy it back on, but the PB wouldn't hold after that. It took a bit of fanagling to get the adjustments right on each side, then getting the cable right too. I never did get both sides to hold, either one would be tight and the other would still turn, or both would turn. Oh well, it is someone else's problem now.

 

Why did you need the parking brake? Stick shift?

 

My 5-speed '88 Cutlass didn't have a working parking brake. I slapped that bitch into 1st and it never rolled away.

[xtremerevolution]

ya dont have to push, it turns in.

 

So you're one of the lucky ones. I've NEVER had the piston just "turn-in" on it's own.

 

If you use the C clamp on those rear pistons you will be buying new calipers within the hour of completing the brake job.

 

Not true.

 

Likewise. I've never had them just "turn in" and I always did them without using a c-clamp until the last time.

 

I'll go to the store again and see if I can find a compressor tool, since I'll need one to compress my front brake pistons.

 

I say this every time this topic comes up (which is like twice a month).. but what I do is I stick a very small block of wood under the end of the c-clamp on the piston. The wood will compress to fit the shape of the top of the piston and should turn it in when you turn the c-clamp.

 

However, renting the right tool from autozone should make this all a lot easier. that little $8 block with tabs on the side sucks.

[jrbakke]

I would have liked to have the PB for parking on hills, There were times when on an incline it was a pain to get it out of first and into reverse to back up after being parked. Not to mention having the parking Brake really help for "fun" type driving...

[supreme_style21]

I've always used a needle nose pliers and the pistons have always turned back in really easily.. I've never smashed up my knuckles or anything.

[gpchris]

There were times when on an incline it was a pain to get it out of first

tell me you didnt just rip it out of first. Hitting the clutch will free up the shifter

[supreme_style21]

There were times when on an incline it was a pain to get it out of first

tell me you didnt just rip it out of first. Hitting the clutch will free up the shifter

Judging by his avitar, it looks like a 94-96 car, which, unless he's done some swap, is an auto. I know when I've parked on an incline, its a hard shift to get it out of park. I park on an incline probably 3 times in 5 years, so I don't much care, but if its an every day thing, yeah it'd get annoying.