greencutlassdrvr Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 i say water pump..... awp-625 24.99 life time warranty autozone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVMY03GT Posted May 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 I picked up a WaterPump 21.00 at the zone. It was a Duralast but it'll do the job I think (I hope). It came with a gasket, only problem is I don't get any type of grease for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greencutlassdrvr Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 21.00?!! wtf... ever since i started working there 2 years ago its been 24.99 lol... you get a discount? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVMY03GT Posted May 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 21.00?!! wtf... ever since i started working there 2 years ago its been 24.99 lol... you get a discount? Â LMAO!!! 21 W/Tax. Â Nope no discount. Not sure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordBoy Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 either a gasket(not sure if there is one) or RTV Â It did come with a gasket :woot: !!!!! Â And so I brave it this evening. MESSY!!!! Question when I take this thing off is it going to gush coolant until the radiator is empty or just until it gets below a point? all that should leak out is what is in the motor the rad. will not drain* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVMY03GT Posted May 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 either a gasket(not sure if there is one) or RTV Â It did come with a gasket :woot: !!!!! Â And so I brave it this evening. MESSY!!!! Question when I take this thing off is it going to gush coolant until the radiator is empty or just until it gets below a point? all that should leak out is what is in the motor the rad. will not drain* Â How much is usually in the motor itself?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidHowell3633 Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 You wont need any grease for your water pump. BTW, I installed a flushing tee last week. Now the hose seems a bit twisted and crimped, even after I removed about an inch to compensate for the "T". I also had to remove a bit from one side of the "T" since there so little room to work with. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordBoy Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 a few gallons i think   where did grease come up i said RTV because it is a sealer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 these are very simple to do, all the issues you must tackle are very easy to handle. if you you have the skill to change a flat tire, these jobs are easy.  oh... start with the water pump for now,  I would get a simple tube of blue silicone and put a thin layer on both sides of the gasket. and when I clean the gasket surface, I do so with a razor scraper, and I always put a dab of grease of antisieze on all the bolts I remove and install during the procedure, so that if I ever have to do it again, they won';t be frozen.  write-up: (same procedure for the 3100) http://members.aol.com/regal231/wtpump.htm    and you should not loose much from the pump, it is a high point in the system, so maybe 1/4 to 1/2 gallon at the worst? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVMY03GT Posted May 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 I thought you needed grease just to lube the seal so it didn't dry rot. Â One more question. On the GP's tensioner. How do I get the tension OFF the belt so I can slip it off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 lol  the tensioner should have a 3/8" hole, where a 3/8" rachet would go it, and you simply move it out of the way. the write-up didn't cover that!   do not forget to inspect the tensioner, if it has side to side movement... REPLACE! (I've found 3.1 tensioners are compatible, and readily re-usable from the j/y in good shape if you have to replace) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVMY03GT Posted May 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 lol  the tensioner should have a 3/8" hole, where a 3/8" rachet would go it, and you simply move it out of the way. the write-up didn't cover that!   do not forget to inspect the tensioner, if it has side to side movement... REPLACE! (I've found 3.1 tensioners are compatible, and readily re-usable from the j/y in good shape if you have to replace)   Hmmm I thought the tensioner was visibile from the outside . Got a pic of one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidHowell3633 Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 Just above the crankshaft and below your alternator you'll see the belt routed toward the front of the car. Where it loops toward the front is where the tensioner is located. You'll want to set the ratchet for removal and insert the ratchet into the square hole near the belt and lift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVMY03GT Posted May 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 Just above the crankshaft and below your alternator you'll see the belt routed toward the front of the car. Where it loops toward the front is where the tensioner is located. You'll want to set the ratchet for removal and insert the ratchet into the square hole near the belt and lift.  Okay now Im beyond lost  Before It hought the tensioner was a pulley basically down towards the lower part of the motor basically it pushes UP on the belt to increase tension. am I wrong? Do you just pull forward to push the tensioner down to relieve the tension? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidHowell3633 Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 Here's a view of a 3100 showing the tensioner. See att: Â [attachment deleted by admin] Removed to free up storage space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidHowell3633 Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 You are correct! The tensioner has to go up to relieve tension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVMY03GT Posted May 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 Here's a view of a 3100 showing the tensioner. See att: Â GOT IT!!!! So the socket goes into the square Crank down on the tensioner to relieve the tension and slip belt off. Anything I missed there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidHowell3633 Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 I'm sorry I am not being clear. Once you insert the ratchet into the square hole, it would be good to have the handle pointing toward the radiator so you can lift up on the handle of the ratchet (backing off the tension) and slip the belt off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVMY03GT Posted May 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 I'm sorry I am not being clear. Once you insert the ratchet into the square hole, it would be good to have the handle pointing toward the radiator so you can lift up on the handle of the ratchet (backing off the tension) and slip the belt off. Â But if you put a ratchet into the hole with the hand pointing towards the radiator if you PUSH DOWN on the ratchet (Towards the bottom of the car) It should loosen it shouldn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mra32 Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 I may be out of my element here, since ive only worked on a 3.1, but i think its the same idea. The pulley is attached to a tensioning ARM that is spring loaded. You do as david howell said, and lift up on the arm, against the spring, moving the pulley so that it doesn't push/tension the belt anymore. Â Where you put the ratchet is not a bolt/stud/nut/anything to do with threads, so oyu cant loosen it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 I'm sorry I am not being clear. Once you insert the ratchet into the square hole, it would be good to have the handle pointing toward the radiator so you can lift up on the handle of the ratchet (backing off the tension) and slip the belt off. Â But if you put a ratchet into the hole with the hand pointing towards the radiator if you PUSH DOWN on the ratchet (Towards the bottom of the car) It should loosen it shouldn't it? Â to relive tension, you pull up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVMY03GT Posted May 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 Okay so water pump is replaced and problem still exists. However I have new problems now. It looks like the coolant leak went away which is a good thing. Its no longer spraying or anything so I think that was part of the problem. I think now my Thermostat is either stuck closed or I am interpreting something wrong. There is a hose near the engine on Driver side that runs to the radiator. That hose near the engine very warm - hot to touch. As you go away from the engine it gets colder. In fact the fluid in the radiator is cold its not even luke warm which leads me to believe this. Thermostat got stuck close. Caused waterpump to back up. Water pump could handle the back pressure and went to lunch.  So now my next question. How hard is the thermostat to replace in our cars and is it in that hose that runs from the engne to the top of the radiator?  BTW the gasket that comes with that water pump. JUNK!!!! That thing is a sorry exscuse for a gasket. It's paper for christ sake  oh and now Im out of fuel to top it off. Low Fuel Light is on and its just barely above E so Im guessing Im out. It spuddered really bad and then stalled. Tried to turn back over and nothing  Thoughts/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted May 24, 2007 Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 oh and now Im out of fuel to top it off. Low Fuel Light is on and its just barely above E so Im guessing Im out. It spuddered really bad and then stalled. Tried to turn back over and nothing  Thoughts/  Your gauge must read high, then. I can get all the way under the line before I need to fill up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted May 24, 2007 Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 oh and now Im out of fuel to top it off. Low Fuel Light is on and its just barely above E so Im guessing Im out. It spuddered really bad and then stalled. Tried to turn back over and nothing  Thoughts/  Your gauge must read high, then. I can get all the way under the line before I need to fill up.  I ran out of gas once in my Lumina and the guage said I had 1/4tank still.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVMY03GT Posted May 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 Well Im also on an incline slight that is. Car is leanining slightly one way. Im guessing that makes a diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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