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Emergency Brake Cable Question


LuminaPower92
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OMG OMG oil pump drive seal- VERY common. If you have an oil leak on the backside of your engine that "looks" like an oil pan leak, it isn't: it is the oil pump drive seal.

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the 3.4 lim is easy, 3.1 is kinda a pain but i know all about the oil pump drive seal, however i wouldnt classify a w is that bad of a car considering some others out there with much harder crap to work on.

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definately alternators one these, lim. and oil pump drive seal. also common for bad rod knock, Not mine but several people i know. If its a 2 door the outside door handles, If its a 4 door the outside door handles lol. It mostly has to do with the plastic clips that they use inside the doors for the 4 door and it is usually just an adjustment on the 2 doors. Gas tank seam rots and unable to fill the tank past half. im sure there is more but otherwise they are tanks when it comes to accidents. Oh did i mention the ice buildup between the doors and the fenders causing a nice crinkled fender :mad:

 

[attachment deleted by admin] Removed to free up storage space.

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definately alternators one these, lim. and oil pump drive seal.

 

I can do the alternator in 1 hour.

 

I can do the intake gaskets in 1 hour.

 

The oil pump drive seal can be permafixed with the intakes off, jb weld, and a day to let it dry.

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The oil pump drive seal can be permafixed with the intakes off, jb weld, and a day to let it dry.

WHY???!!! A NEW, REDESIGNED seal can be had at the GM dealer for $1. Do yourself a favor and go buy a new seal from GM. :rolleyes:

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The oil pump drive seal can be permafixed with the intakes off, jb weld, and a day to let it dry.

WHY???!!! A NEW, REDESIGNED seal can be had at the GM dealer for $1. Do yourself a favor and go buy a new seal from GM. :rolleyes:

 

Because to the the o ring properly, you gotta pull the rear head.

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Not sure what engine you're talking about, but on teh 3.1's I've done, all u have to do is remove the TB and a couple minor things to do it- takes an hour TOPS

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Not sure what engine you're talking about, but on teh 3.1's I've done, all u have to do is remove the TB and a couple minor things to do it- takes an hour TOPS

 

AFAIK, the 3.4 DOHC requires the rear head to be removed.

 

The 3.1 is a piece of cake......as long as the drive isn't all varnished up and stuck.

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Not sure what engine you're talking about, but on teh 3.1's I've done, all u have to do is remove the TB and a couple minor things to do it- takes an hour TOPS

AFAIK, the 3.4 DOHC requires the rear head to be removed.

 

Exactly. We were talking about what the owner of this thread has- a 3.4.

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Not sure what engine you're talking about, but on teh 3.1's I've done, all u have to do is remove the TB and a couple minor things to do it- takes an hour TOPS

AFAIK, the 3.4 DOHC requires the rear head to be removed.

 

Exactly. We were talking about what the owner of this thread has- a 3.4.

 

And before that we were talking about emergency brake cables. Isn't it funny how stuff gets sidetracked?

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Not sure what engine you're talking about, but on teh 3.1's I've done, all u have to do is remove the TB and a couple minor things to do it- takes an hour TOPS

 

AFAIK, the 3.4 DOHC requires the rear head to be removed.

 

The 3.1 is a piece of cake......as long as the drive isn't all varnished up and stuck.

 

There is plenty of clearence to slip the O-ring over. It will seal between the lip of the drive shaft and the engine block. The O-ring is rubber and can be stretched

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Not sure what engine you're talking about, but on teh 3.1's I've done, all u have to do is remove the TB and a couple minor things to do it- takes an hour TOPS

AFAIK, the 3.4 DOHC requires the rear head to be removed.

 

Exactly. We were talking about what the owner of this thread has- a 3.4.

 

And before that we were talking about emergency brake cables. Isn't it funny how stuff gets sidetracked?

right there i was kidding. :lol2:
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