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where is EST (rpm/crank sensor) on my 92 euro?


dman
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my book only said "on block near the oil pan". Is it on the front or the back? replace from the top or from the bottom on ramps. can it be replaced without removing the engine,lol? If this EST sensor is bad could it cause the car to stall and miss during acceleration?

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I'm not sure how different the 3.1 is but on the 3.4, it's in the middle of the block, on the back. reach in with extremely skinny arms about up to your elbow through the inner fender on the passenger side and you should feel a two wire connector. IF it's like the 3.4 It's also generally referred to the CPS around here. (what does EST stand for?)

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electronic spark timing. Thats what the book shows. I've always refered to it as a crank position sensor myself. thanks for the 3.4 reference. anybody else with a 3.1? any comments on what i should expect to see if it is bad??

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IMG_8545b.jpg

 

not the clearest picture.. but you can see the connector there.

 

I don't THINK it would cause stalling/missing... but I could be wrong. A bad one could pull timing, making the car extra slow, but I'm not sure if it would cause the other symptoms.

 

I don't know what else you've tried, but a stalling/missing condition could be caused by many things, namely a dying coil pack (only go with AC Delco's if you do need to replace one). could also be an injector or throttle position sensor (I think).

 

I've never attemped the CPS with the motor in the car, but it's a long reach or a tight squeeze. If you do need to change it, I'd probably rock the engine forward, remove the alternator and bracket and tackle it from the top. I know you can reach it from there, and you should be able to get a wrench on it ok.

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all three coil packs are less than 2 months old. whats the chances of one being bad this soon? now that you mention it, the wires on the center coil pack where swapped by the garage that replaced the coils and module. i swapped them back and it idled fine both ways, but the heavy miss/stumble during accell is still there. thanks for the pic, helps alot. its very hard to find with the engine in the car. i'm grabbing at staws to fix this miss.

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It's not the hardest job I've ever done but it's by no means the easiest. I'd imagine if you rock the engine forward, maybe take off the upper intake manifold, you'd have no real problem. It's either a 8mm (what mine is) or a torx T-25 or T 30 (what my school has) and a final tip (from me) put antiseize on the new one. I've heard horror stories about these things. and I think there's a reference in the FAQ about it.

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Don't take off any intake manifolds, they're not that much in the way. besides, why only take off the upper? you'd still have the lower blocking the same space behind the motor...

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have not checked the plugs lately. wires less than six months and 2500 miles (moms car). would the plugs cause the car to idle fine, but stumble and sputter when it is put in drive, but not reverse?

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I have to replace that stupid sensor in one of my W's. I'm currently too lazy to do so so it's just been sitting. I replaced nearly the whole ignition system and diagnosed my butt off before I found out about that stupid sensor. I ended up stranded 30 miles from home. Had to leave my car and get a ride home. Next day i go to pick up my car it has a busted windshield.. fucking kids :evil:

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