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Engine Bay Clunk / Engine Roll


Redfox340
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After replacing the dogbone (no more than a week ago) on my Cutlass the car feels great; slightly more responsive and the downshifts are extremely stiff: excellent. But the problem I'm running in now is that every time at a complete stop and give it gas, I can hear / feel (from the dead pedal floorboard) a clunk comming from the driver side of the engine. My thought is since a new dogbone was installed with new poly inserts, are the other mounts working more and rubbing on something due to power transfer from the engine to wheels... Any thoughts? Anyone else vouch for this? Thanks for the help!

 

- RedFox340

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I just fixed a problem like than on my Cutlass. When accelerating/stopping, there would be a clunk. It wasn't suspension, and it wasn't the engine. I decided to check the cradle bolts...sure enough, two were finger tight.

 

And I know I tightened them last time I had them out. :)

 

Jason

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I just fixed a problem like than on my Cutlass. When accelerating/stopping, there would be a clunk. It wasn't suspension, and it wasn't the engine. I decided to check the cradle bolts...sure enough, two were finger tight.

 

Eek! :shock: I'll make sure those suckers are tight... also, I was directed possibly to the tranny mount (driver side) and was told those make a considerable amount of noise and worth looking into as well. Keep you all posted, and the next time I can get underneath my car, I'll let you know. Thanks for all the help!

 

- RedFox340

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Mine did it, and I had to lower and readjust the exhaust system

 

Brain, what did that intale?

 

I just went out (after a long week of classes) and checked craddle bolts: more than finger tight. Did the power braking and it's still there... in fact, just shifting from Neutral to Drive (no motion forward) makes the noise. I took a flashlight to it and I don't see any clearance problems (with limited view of course) and I'm starting to conclude it's the tranny mount. Any other insights and contributions?

 

- RedFox340

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Make sure the frame bolts are torqued to spec, exh manifold to downpipe bolts are torqued to spec, next idea is the engine and/or trans mount. Trans mount is easiest to replace, just remove drivers wheel and you'll see it. Requires support/slight lift of the motor/trans assembly. Other ideas----maybe the upper dogbone, check torque on the black support brackets on both sides of the engine compartment (term, anyone?) check air filter mounting bolts for tightness, worn struts, worn control arm bushings, worn balljoints possibly (did it in sister's car)

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Make sure the frame bolts are torqued to spec, exh manifold to downpipe bolts are torqued to spec, next idea is the engine and/or trans mount. Trans mount is easiest to replace, just remove drivers wheel and you'll see it. Requires support/slight lift of the motor/trans assembly. Other ideas----maybe the upper dogbone, check torque on the black support brackets on both sides of the engine compartment (term, anyone?) check air filter mounting bolts for tightness, worn struts, worn control arm bushings, worn balljoints possibly

 

Thanks for the insight... I really can't get a good luck while being at college, so I'll be easy on it till I can get it up on look for myself with a fine tooth comb. If / when I need to do bushings, where do I go to get em', and can an average character like myself replace them... (I've done replacement projects, can't get build motors; know what I mean?)

 

Hey you guys tell me were are the Cradle Bolts?

 

There on the underside of the engine bay, if you follow the craddle supports you should find 4x (right amount?) bolts with rubber around them. It's pretty easy to spot, if you can't locate them, I can grab some pictures if needed.

 

- RedFox340

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