birdman Posted November 26, 2005 Report Share Posted November 26, 2005 well i go to replace the master cylinder and its going ok until the brake line nuts wont come loose and want to round off , no matter what i did they just started to round off so i said f-it and got out the vice grips and made them sooo tight that the devil himself couldnt get loose. well that did the trick. it went good for another 30-40min until while i was bench bleeding i noticed that where one of those little connecting tubes that goes through was dripping. so i took the abs motor back off and tried to tighten the two bolts but they were already very tight, i gave it a little nudge though and put it back together and finished bench bleeding with no drips so im like hell yea , NOT, as soon as i get EVERYTHING hooked back up and hit the pedal to see how it feels before bleeding the brakes i hear noises, like squishy noises. :x i look at the MC and see all under the same stupid connecter tube there is a puddle of brake fluid, im so pissed because i know i have to take it back apart and i have no clue how to make it not leak. is there somthing special you have to do to make a good seal? any info please because i need to get it done by tomarrow. thanks and sorry for the rant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted November 27, 2005 Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 It sounds like the transfer tube assemblies (parts # 7) needs to be replaced. you should just pull the abs valve attaching bolts (5) and pull the abs unit away to remove them Contact a local part store and see if they have them, even print the pic if you need to. (did you get a new or used MC?) When ever I work on a brake line I always coat the line end with antisieze(where the fiting goes over it) and the thread lightly. rub the excess off with a clean tissue... You don't want to contaminate the system, after all. (also if you need to replace a line I always get used OEM lines and link them with steel junctions from NAPA) good luck let us know how it turns out. - Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdman Posted November 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 it was a reman, and it came with new transfer tubes, thats why i was like wtf??? also, does the MC sit perfectly flush with the abs unit where the tubes are or is there a slight gap?, mine has a small gap because i didnt want to push it too much. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted November 27, 2005 Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 I"M NOT GOING OUT IN THE COLD TO LOOK!!!! WTF? ok ok, I'll go look. brb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted November 27, 2005 Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 ok, the vertical surface has no gap. I checked three units. The angular surface where the transfer tubes are has a small gap about the thickness of a credit card. (yeah I need some feeler guages, i think i have some but can't find em) you might pop it apart and see what you can do... You may need to make a part run and get new ones :| Question: are there O-rings on the transfer tubes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdman Posted November 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 yea there are on both ends and all thats new stuff that came with the mc, my gap is about 2or3 credit cards, i guess ill take it apart and try to shove it together more , its just such a pain to do. thanks alot for lookin btw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted November 27, 2005 Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 Try lubing the O-rings and seeing if they fit fine being pushed into either part. use brake fluid to allow them to slide in more easily... Or you may need to run to the store and see if they can get you more O-rings... And make sure that the new master Cylinder isn't damaged... I did some quick research. Although similiar in appearance, the abs and non-ABS cars have different master cylinders, if you recieved the wrong one, that could be the problem. I supose the non abs would have a threaded lower port and the abs type would have a smooth bored port, but I don't know since i don't have one i can look at. Ask the store to compare to another MC if needed... .(I have seen plenty of stuff in the wrong box) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdman Posted November 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 thanks for all the help, i did wet the o rings in brake fluid but i might have not pushed them in all the way because i didnt want to damage anything, and if that dosnt work ill take it up there abd compare. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted November 27, 2005 Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 cool. keep us posted. -ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdman Posted November 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 well i just got back from putting in a new MC and all was going well, i stopped the leak it was a little o-ring on the connector tube that wasnt seating right and we bench blead the MC and the fluid only came out on two lines??? the front i belive, but that didnt bother me because i thought the abs unit had done somthing and would reset. well i got it in and blead the MC from the two bleeders on the MC itself. the fluid shor tight out so im like finally NOT :x the pedal had felt good the whole time but when we went to go blead the back calipers none came uot and the pedal didnt move :shock: :x neither of the back calipers had any come out. but the pedal still felt good and firm. so im like well it must be the abs needing to be restt, it says to start the car for 10 sec and that does it. well i start it and the pedal still feels firm but now the abs and brake light are on . by now im very pissed and confused so i decide to do a little road test, well whilt backing out the car would stop with much less pedal movement that before so im again thinking i sitll have a chance, nope as soon as i got up to like 20 i hit the brakes hard and it STILL stops like before but with less pedal travel. im so confused, what could it be??? it almost has to be the abs but what part. the only thing i can think of is those gears that your not supposed to mess with got maved a litthe and are cuttin circulation?? any ideas this is driving me up a wall. thanks and sorry for another rant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted November 28, 2005 Report Share Posted November 28, 2005 Unfortunately You've passed the point of my expertise... i know about the gears and I don't wanna touch them. I believe that all 4 ports on the MC should be bleeding fluid, not just the two front ones. this would be the same as a non abs system MC. The brake system is a diagonal system, the Front Left and Rear Right are on one circuit, the Front Right and Rear Left are on the opposite circuit which at least means that the rear not having bleed in not just a problem of only one circuit. When in doubt... I start pumping like crazy with the bleeders open and keep adding fluid until the probelm resolves. Remember to do the bleeders on top of the abs unit first. use hose and a bucket, or an assistant to get it done. I would then do a hard stop(to trigger an abs stop) and rebleed the system. but be careful, you want to be in a place where a system failure won't be dangerous just in case. find an empty dirt road or field or something. good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdman Posted December 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2005 well i finally made some ok progress and am not cery pissed anymore but still agitated. i opened up the abs and out of anger decided to turn all the gears to the left all the way and see what happened, well it made it bleed out of all the ports now so that was good so i put it back on the car and bleed the mc and calipers and i finally have lots of pressure at the wheels, i mean it just shot out and it was all good. well i start it and the lights are still on and the pedal has gone back to being mushy but that musta been because the back was now getting pressure too, so i drive it and it still stops like before and im like f-it im just gonna drive a little tomarrow because i really need my car. welli start it the next day and to my shock no abs or brake light :shock: it still stopped the samebut seemed to get better as i drove. it seems now after ive been driving for 5-10 min the brakes get better, not normal but much better. my thoughts are either front calipers or the rotors arne really smooth. any thoughts??? thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted December 3, 2005 Report Share Posted December 3, 2005 take a look at the rotors, pads and calipers, i had complete front brake job for 300$ at Less Schwab (a large tire/brake chain in this area) I had terrible mushy pedal, terrbile stopping distance, but no squeeking, turns out my rotors were warped as hell, with cracks in them, the pads were almost non exsistant, and the caliper was rusted so bad it needed replaced Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdman Posted December 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2005 well the thing is just about 5-6 months ago i replaced the front pads and rotors and when i took the calipers off the slide pins wernt frozen but a friend of mine said that hes seen new rotors that wernt glassy smooth and didnt stop worth a shit until he got them turned. im also thinking that mabey somthing internal might be wrong with the calipers but i wouldnt have a clue what. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted December 3, 2005 Report Share Posted December 3, 2005 glad to see it's working a bit better.... try using emery cloth and scratching the rotors in a cicular motion, the standard service manual method of refinishing brakes that don't really need to be turned... and I would do a full rebleed from top to bottom, just in case... with help from someone using the screaming "push, Release" method. You need to have run about two whole cans of fresh fluid through the sytem after a MC disconnect to remove ALL bubbles. This has netted me results when I've had mushy pedal, from some damn air bubble near the toip of the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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